Tasted with Laurent Notton in Chichée, 08 March 2023.
Domaine Laurent & Céline Notton
4 impasse Saint-Paul
89800 Chichée
Tel: +33 6 81 03 98 66
www.chablis-notton.com
More reports with Domaine Notton
Laurent on 2022:
“Yes I’m happy. I did Wine Paris two weeks ago and it’s never stopped since I’m having to make an early bottling of 2022s for just about all my export markets. I even had a little VCI in the vintage so I’m very happy.”
Laurent on 2021:
“Different. Just 20-22 hl/ha and that was all down to the frost. I didn’t have so many problems with the well-discussed maladies as much that we have is on the high parcels and the frost got them. A couple of cuvées are already sold out – hence, the early bottling of some 22s.”
The wines…
Clean, pure and impressively differentiated wines. These are fine bottles!
Only ‘natural’ cork used here:
2021 Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Grandparents vines in Courgis planted in 1960 – ‘They are very different wines to here in Chichée – but there wasn’t much in 2021…’ A small amount of barrel elevage.
Broad and fresh with a base of minerality too that’s a great invitation. Here is a very well concentrated wine for a 2021 – silky and a little generous but with layers of flavour – depth of flavour. Slightly contemplative but very mouth-watering in the long finish too. Simply excellent wine!
2021 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
1.5 hectares here. All tank elevage for this
More breadth and a little more freshness to this aromatic energy. The structure more present. These flavours are more perfumed and direct in style – it’s a narrower finish but more hauntingly perfumed. Also super but so very different.
2021 Chablis 1er Beauregards
A rare 1er from a little more than 30-year-old vines – there are only 4 or 5 who label as such, including the cousin (of Céline) Thomas Pico
Ooh – more volume of aroma and still fine clarity. A hint more muscular, there’s more depth and cushion to these flavours too – very different again – the debut of the finish is something of a peak of flavour before a long slow, quite saline diminuendo…
2021 Chablis 1er Vaugirot
vines from 1935, just 1,200 bottles – all barrel elevage – about 10 month
Another lovely freshness of aroma – these wines all have very inviting aromas. Wide, mouth-filling wine – structural wine – which is super – not quite austere but a little young – give this 1-2 years – the oak is discrete but the wine will still benefit from it fading further – I didn’t note any impact in the fine aromas.
And some recently – only 2 weeks – bottled 2022s:
2022 Petit Chablis
Young (6) vines in Chichée – a small parcel of not much more than 1k bottles.
Actually a little calmer aromatics than the examples I tasted in January. A good nose of energy and no excess. More direct, silky, some complexity too – a little herb and mixed citrus. That’s very lovely – the most ‘Chablis-style’ wine that I’ve tasted from this vintage – so far!
2022 Chablis
Fuller aromas, plenty of perfume – maybe not fully open but there’s material here! A width of calm, mineral flavour with a growing complexity of citrus notes. Like the nose, there’s much depth here – and an almost musky hint in the length – a wine that should open out more but the base material is super – give it 6-12 months to do that then enjoy!