Tasted in Chablis with Patrice Vocoret, 10 March 2023.
Domaine Vocoret et Fils
40 Route d’Auxerre
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 12 53
www.domaine-vocoret.com
More reports for Domaine Vocoret
Patrice on 2022:
“Top. Of course, we will need to see how the wines turn out but everything in elevage is looking good – aromatic and a little opulent. Yields were about 95% of the allowed rendement – despite the strong frost – so all is good. The business is certainly good the only thing causing problems is the lack of volume. I haven’t done any early bottlings – not yet – but three months of elevage is a stretch and we don’t want to damage the image of wines from Chablis. Of course, the finances take precedence and younger domaines have to keep going – even in a market where there’s more demand than wine.”
Patrice on 2021:
“I’ve worked since 1980 – and in that time, there’s not been a vintage with much less yield than 2021. I had a bit more than a third of a normal volume – we harvested in good conditions but you can’t invent more grapes than there are on the vines. The wines are lighter but deserve their place in the range of Chablis. The Grand Crus were bottled in October the other wines had bottlings started in June-July.”
The wines…
Very well done. Consistently very good to excellent wines – they are clean, pure, properly structured, proper Chablis!
All DIAM seals for many years now. The Petit Chablis is long sold-out, so we start with the Chablis
2021 Chablis
A large part in Prehy near Brocard.
That’s open and very aromatic – a lovely invitation. Broad, incisive, a little lime-citrus in the middle and also the finishing intensity… That’s very good.
2021 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Always the same parcels, planted about 1970-75. Plenty near the Brocard winery in Prehy – Les Pargues – this bottled in October
Fine and direct, narrower but more finely focused. Broader, more saline, incisive again – that’s got extra finishing complexities – the finish is wide and satisfying – that’s a simply excellent wine.
2021 Chablis 1er Montmains
A little sunlight in these fine citrus aromas. A little broader but still direct – the structure is fine – a wine with a little fluidity. Great finishing intensity, pure – simply an excellent wine again.
2021 Chablis 1er Forêts
Extra breadth and a little warmer complexity. Broad, mouth-filling wone – cool minerality – a finish of melting citrus complexity, almost a little orange fruit. Lovely again.
2021 Chablis 1er Forêts Vieilles-Vignes
Some Butteaux included in this
Wide again, less round, but with a finely-grained additional complexity. More mouth-filling more vibrant mineral energy and clarity. A hint of extra sucrosity in this fine finish. Certainly a little step up on the ‘younger’ brother. Excellent wine.
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Beugnons, Epinottes, Ronciéres, Melinots and Sechets – almost all the Sechets is older vines – pretty much everything except Lys in this!
An airy width but with a growing intensity of supporting citrus – lime like the Chablis. Impressive architecture, direct and intense – not your cliché floral Vaillons – but super!
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons Vieilles-Vignes
From Sechets – lots of white clays and ammonites here.
Broader than the Vaillons, perhaps a little extra floral. More generous but still with a layered, mineral, mouth-watering style – a grand finish too – simply excellent wine – just a little rounder maybe because of the elevage – but I can’t taste any wood.
Hmm – now that’s an impressive volume of aroma – super – fine top notes and lots of depth – super! Not quite as full as the last but melting with flavour, fine texture – a simply super wine – I prefer it to the fine Vaillons VV. That’s a great finish too!
2021 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
A more modest width of aroma – a little tighter for this one. Great in the mouth though – a cascade of fine, clean, mainly mineral flavours then super-vibrant finishing. Another great finish – not the generosity in the middle of the previous two – but frankly, it doesn’t need it!
2021 Chablis Blanchots
2.12 ha owned here.
A narrower and also more compact nose, but with direct and pure complexity. Wow – that is intense – there’s not much padding here, a little green citrus again – but what intensity. Keep this 3-4 years for something that is more accessible – but it’s impressive all the same and the last note is faintly chalky.
2021 Chablis Les Clos
Broader and more floral – not hyper-energetic. Hmm – concentration a small generosity, good texture and flavours that are constantly changing – proper Les Clos – but certainly hyper-inviting! This is absolutely delicious today – more accommodating than the Blanchots – drink today or drink in 15 years – with confidence! Top wine – simply excellent Les Clos!