Tasted in Chichée with Marjorie Molusson, 06 March 2023.
Domaine des Trois V
5 allée des Tilleuls
89800 Chichée
Tel: +33 6 24 39 68 47
www.domaine-des-trois-v.fr
Marjorie’s parents had an exploitation in the 1980s – her grandfather’s vines – they produced cereal too.
It’s 10 years since Marjorie, and her dog Guinness, took on this domaine, working from a discreet office in Chichée with the winery about 200m away in the village. In all that time the domaine’s production was sold in bulk – 2021 is the first vintage she is commercialising in bottle. There’s a little bit of export around Europe – otherwise, a large part is still sold in bulk. The domaine covers 20 hectares – and all the domaine’s vines are around Chichée.
Marjorie on 2021:
“It was a complicated vintage to start – but for everyone – harvesting starting at the end of September. It was cold and and wet during the year – the vintages on either side we were harvesting in the night as the days were so hot – what a difference! 2021 was just half a harvest here.”
The wines…
A first visit and some very nice wines too – well done!
2021 Chablis
12%.
Fresh and clean – some green notes but more the impression of lime. Open, mouth-filling, nice energy – faintly saline – not a concentrated wine but one of energy and a fine finishing juiciness – delicious – sneakily long too!
2021 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Versus 30 years of the last these vines are about sixty years old – planted in the 1960s.
Narrower but more direct and pure – fine clarity. Hmm – a hint more agrume and certainly more agrume bitters – juicy, slightly more muscle – more contemplative but still properly mouthwatering – the finish not longer but a bit more powerful and ‘larger.’ Lovely…
Now the three V’s of Chichée – the secret is revealed:
2021 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
Tank elevage like the previous two – the 2021 premiers with about 15 months of elevage so not long in bottle… 35 year old vines
A deeper nose, more mineral in style becoming more airy and perfumed with air. Broader, more supple but with beautiful, slightly more generous, flavour and more sucrosity. The texture’s also a bit more generous. Slowly fading. Completely delicious wine again.
2021 Chablis 1er Vaugirot
‘I tasted one and thought it was for me:’ – amphora elevage – just 4 months – then tank assembled with a parcel all tank just before bottling.
A higher-toned width of aroma – faintly floral – very inviting. More direct, cool, chiselled and mineral – there’s structure here but nothing is hard then the wine relaxes over the palate – a mix of flowers and salinity – that’s excellent!
2021 Chablis 1er Vosgros
3-year-old barrels for 12 months – assembling with a tiny part done in tank, just before bottling.
A faint warm spice but I don’t note anything that’s obviously of the barrel – slowly becoming more floral. The texture is slightly rounder but there’s also richness and fine direction to these flavours. Perhaps the strongest finish of all these – and not of barrel – almost some orange fruit – a super finish. Another super wine and no obvious elements from the elevage – perhaps the rounder style excepted.