Tasted in Chablis (Milly) with Didier Defaix, 07 March 2023.
Domaine Bernard Defaix
17 Rue du Château, Milly
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 40 75
www.bernard-defaix.com
More reports with Domaine Bernard Defaix
Didier on 2022:
“It’s average for volume, certainly not extraordinary, but if we compare this volume to that from 2021 we are much happier! I think it will be very good vintage – it will take some time to be ready but it’s very agreeable.”
Didier on 2021:
“Some of the 21s are already sold out but that’s hardly a surprise – the volume would be placed in the same category as 2016 or 2017 – a bit less but similar. Some parcels were lost – or at least 90% lost – so it’s vintage of complications that followed the frost too. It’s not the first time and it wont be the last – we are in a phase where the yields are average or a bit less – of course that’s ignoring the large volume of 2018. But I’m very happy with the wines – before the malo the wines were not meagre but I was really searching for some personality – but after the malo I found the wines much more dynamic.”
The wines…
A shorter tasting than usual – but that’s my timing with volume of the vintage – but a super range of wines from 2021 – some worth a special search!
All DIAM here – some different densities are used “But we are happy with them they really keep the style of wine which we want to produce.” Some markets have some screw-cap possibilities here too – but only 10-15% of the production – it’s the customer who decides. A bunch of these wines were already sold-out when I visited. Always a good length of elevage here – of the wines tasted the most recent bottling was just 14 days before I visited:
2021 Chablis
Only tank elevage – temperature-controlled. Bottled just before the 2022 harvest.
That’s a very forward and aromatic wine – lots of complexity – some herb too – becoming more open and very fine. Hmm – bright, incisive – vibrantly flavoured – cool fruit, slowly fading but still holding onto its intensity with a lovely citrus skin complexity. A simply excellent wine.
A parcel just under Les Lys 1er cru – about 60-year-old vines of around 1 ha. There’s about 25% barrel used here – ‘228s but hardly anything new’ – for the other cuvées of 1ers they are 500-litre barrels.
Hmm – that’s another very open nose – super white flowers and citrus complexity – a great nose. Direct, intense, gorgeous wine – yes! This for keeping as long as you like – there is depth and purity – great villages – and the barrel is already invisible.
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Almost all Vaillons with a little Sechets in the mix
Hmm – another very forward nose and what a fine purity – clarity – of aroma too – again super. Broader but growing with intensity – the shape is different but the esprit is the same. Another peak of finishing intensity – that’s a super excellent wine – so good!
2021 Chablis 1er Côte de Lechet
This the third wine with 25% barrel elevage – this with 500-litre barrels
Another nose of width – really vibrant in this case – rounder. Here is a broader style – still with complex intensities but less directly intense – it’s a fine minerality at the base though. Calmer – probably the elevage – today but still with good energy and fine complexity. Very tasty wine!
From a single parcel, just over 1 ha of vines. This the VV cuvée – more than 60-years old with 50% barrel elevage – all 228-l – just 2 weeks in bottle.
The nose starts calm – like the last – deeper too – but swirling brings a detonation of fine floral aroma in the glass – that’s lovely. More width but this is still direct in style – wow flavour over the palate – beautifully textured and with great depth. That’s a top wine – I wouldn’t hesitate in waiting 2-3 years before opening one – the there’s no overt barrel flavour – but this has the balance to easily outlive me – a great wine – finishing in great Chablis style!