Tasted in Charnay-lès-Mâcon with Nicolas Dietrich and Grégoire Hoppenot, 17 February 2017.
Chemin de Buèry
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“We did some vinifications this year!
“Of-course we have no vines – we buy grapes and must – but our volumes were not too badly impacted by the hail, et-cetera – we found that it was relatively easy to find produce with a good quality in this vintage. Our philosophy didn’t change, we are still looking for the purest approach possible. Actually in 2016 we used plenty of whole cluster – indeed more than in 2015.”
“The north and south appellations were quite different in 2015 – not everywhere had a lower yield of grapes. ”
Natural cork for all the crus here. A really great start – a brilliant ‘simple’ Beaujolais.
Vines that average more than 80 years old. The vines are near Villefranche on an east-facing soil.
Deep colour. Deep wide and silky – I would call this serious wine, not a simple Beaujolais. Good volume, fine texture. Serious yet absolutely delicious – bravo wine! A great finish too. Some crus might blush! €8 – so not cheap for the label, very cheap for the quality! Simply brilliant Beaujolais!
Single lieu dit – La Madone – a single vigneron.
A slightly spicy nose – not the welcoming fruit of expectation. Good volume, again a really excellent texture. More linear, the flavour slowly mouth-watering, a little meatiness to the fruit. The wine is excellent, but not the massive leap in level you would expect vs the previous wine. Really it is the finish that distinguishes the wine.
Currently selling the 2014 here.
This has a resonance – some width and a super-fine clarity of almost dried fruits – a beauty. This is a linear wine, one that slowly melts its flavours over the tongue. A little micro-grain of tannin, and fresh fruit of fine clarity plus minerality of flavour in the mid-palate. This is a wine that needs to slowly open out but I find it excellent . Bravo! Beautifully finishing too.
2015 Morgon Côte du Py
Deep, deep colour. A narrow nose but deep and high-toned too, more spiced than fruited. Ooh this has a gorgeous combination of width and texture that you slowly sink into. The mid-palate flavour becomes even more higher-toned and interesting – if you look for it. Really delicious. A wine also to wait for but there is. Lots here to enjoy – excellent fine floral additions to the finish.
2015 Julienas Les Capitans
Vinified here. Nice wax-topped bottle. Half the elevage in old demi-muids was a 28 day maceration, about 40% destemmed.
A fresh nose, quite attractive with a dark almost drying fruit, more high-toned, the bass notes being rather tighter. Ooh! Like the last, the depth of flavour and texture suck you in, there’s more tannin here and with it a hint of astringence, but it will be a modest passing phase. Really layered flavour in the mid-plate, you don’t need to go looking for it like with the Côte du Py. Slowly lingering. Very tasty already but wait for it to grow.
The last two wines I think the heat of the vintage is showing a little, but no more-so than many domaines, I only mention it because that impression was absent for the first wines.
All malos done to completion…
2015 Mâcon Villages
Mainly from Charnay, vinified here.
Deep, bright and ripe yellow fruit. Big in the mouth. A suggestion of gas. Lots and lots of ripe flavour over the palate. A sense of minerality and good acidity, if rather round. A good weight of finishing flavour, indeed that’s the best part of the wine for me…
A deeper nose, still with quite some ripeness, but there’s more energy and an attractive suggestion of minerality too. Finer texture and nicer of line – though the wine is a cooler temperature too – this is really a nice thing over the palate – very tasty indeed -I like.
Some vinified here, about 1:1 Chasselas:Davayé. The last was all tank elevage, this has a little wood.
A little more golden in colour. A deep nose, attractive golden flashes, not unlike an aligoté! Fresh, cool, energetic, lots and lots of interest here. This is very lovely. Hmm just a delicious wine!
Multiple parcels assembled.
Hmm, perhaps the nicest nose so far – a mix of high and low notes and the first with a clear citrus element. Mineral, direct, slowly mouth-watering. Super wine. Actually I find the last a little tastier, though I prefer this nose – is the last wine, the complete wine? This has a great finish.
2015 Saint-Véran Clos des Poncetys
At the foot of the rock of Vergisson.
Golden colour. Deep, muscular, fresh, accented with oak. This has lots of width and depth, really a layered and mineral mid-palate. Lots of intensity and some oak aspects too. I would return in 3+ years. Good stuff should await – natural cork allowing! A really a great finish though a little toasty.