Tasted in Lancié with Gilles Gelin, 22 February 2017.
Domaine des Nugues
40 rue de la Serve
Tel: +33 4 74 04 14 00
Gilles on 2016:
“Hmm – very complicated. But a very nice vintage for the wine, a little in the same esprit as 2014. We had two hailstorms, almost the same area but the second was much larger – though not like 1966*. Our Beaujolais Villages was lower impacted than our Fleurie – which was just half a harvest. Apart from the hailed area it was a good volume for Beaujolais. But we had lots of work, as the rain opened up its own streams in the vines which need much more work to carry the soil back. But maybe I will sell these 2016s before the 2015s.
*”In 1966 the hailstones were almost the size of tennis balls and the piles stayed in the street for 3 weeks – they also arrived at 3 in the morning!”
Gilles on 2015:
“Fortunately we had some rain before the harvest in 2015, which I’m sure helped make the wines tastier and made sure that the maturity wasn’t blocked. We had a good yield overall of 40-48 hl/ha.-In one area of Lantignie I saw vines that saved themselves from the drought by dropping their grapes.”
THE address for Beaujolais Villages I wrote last year for their 14s! I think I can stick with that! I liked one thing that Gilles said: “I’m not a fan of wood – I like it to add a little complexity but the idea of using wood simply to make a more expensive wine doesn’t compute.”
2015 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
Some argilo-calcaire here, in Lancié. Manual harvest here, vinification at low temp. Norammly do full malo, but in this only about 40% was done ‘to keep the fruit and tension.’ Bought this planted with gamay and replanted with chardonnay.
Fresh, sweet, interesting and fresh nose. Good shape and volume in the mouth, this has energy and a very tasty character – nothing hard to distract. Tasty wine.
2015 Beaujolais Villages Rosé
Manual harvest, rosé of press, in bottle a couple of months.
Good depth and of-course freshness – it’s cold! – but a nice saline aspect in the glass too. Bright and fresh, this has a lovely energy – lots of mouth-watering freshness and a great line of quite intense finishing flavour. Very yum!
In bottle since April, wont commercialise for almost a year.
Fresh, complex and with super dark depth – I love the energy here. Good volume in the mouth, not full attack – this is a wine that grows and grows in the mouth. Faintly saline and dark-fruited, a suggestion of licorice. Excellent, smooth wine – really worth another year or two’s wait! A super finish!
One part is classic goblet, these oldest vines can’t really be changed. 7 different vinifications are assembled here, 30-40% destemming – looking for fruit. Bought first Fleurie in 2005.
A modestly wide but really immodestly deep nose – layered, dark and silky fruit. Bigger in the mouth – more impact, more concentration – good structure too. There is freshness and energy here – really great (baby) wine. Lots and lots of potential here – bravo! Really long!
From a single cuvee
This is just a little wider and silkily, textured, softer – but again with super depth. Big in the mouth – really lots of volume and energy and let’s not forget the structure. A bright and fresh intensity of mouth-watering, finishing flavour. This is super wine again with a very different, less obviously concentrated, yet more intensity than the Fleurie. This is sooo good!
A lovely width of fine, complexity, sous bois. Lovely volume in the mouth. Fresh and floral with a lovely active flavour over the palate. This is young, virile and absulutely super – I’m sure that it will be even better tonight!
2005 Beaujolais Villages
A deeper fruit here – this is sweetly attractive but very young, slowly adding a little hyper-attractive complexity. In the mouth this has started to develop a little of the marsala aspect but it’s fresh and and wide, still a little young structure. Super finishing – wide and really tasty. Some aspects very young though the marsala is clear maturity.