tasted in Villé-Morgon with Jean-Baptiste and Claude Emmanuelle, 17 February 2017.
135, rue de la Voûte
Tel: +33 4 74 04 23 35
“The 2016 vintage a grand classic for Beaujolais. Of-course it’s the result of a lot of effort and lots of perturbations – we were twice hailed – we lost the equivalent of 2 from 11 hectares – finally we brought in about 27 hectolitres per hectare. It was really hard in the first part of the vintage but the reward was waiting at the harvest.”
“26 hectolitres per hectare – so less than in 2016. In terms of the amount of work that was needed it was really the reverse of 2016 – we could virtually stop working in the vines at the start of July as there was no growth of weeds. It was just a little wetter in August – 22 mm of rain but it was really, really needed. It is a great vintage, of-course it is also a sunny vintage. It’s seductive and charming. You could say the same about the syrah of the Rhône too though!”
And on the market that they see: “The market is effectively good, but, we lack wine and 2016 won’t help the situation.”
The wines here are ripe but no sign of sur-maturity. They showed really well on this visit – super!
2015 Morgon La Voûtre St.Vincent
From 5 hectares of vines in the climat Doubie and vines in the direction of Fleurie. Average 60-year-old vines, usually the first to be harvested. Made with a 14 day maceration in cement tanks, with some destemming for this cuvée since 2008.
A rather tight, seemingly silky nose, slightly accented with a little pepper. Really super-silky. A line of flavour, a sleek line of flavour. Long and narrow – really a fine length too. Just a little tannin and a more floral impression in the finish. I find this very impressive wine!
From the north-east of the hill, 90-year-old vines and no destemming.
Much more depth of aroma – this is much more open aromatically. More volume in the mouth, fresh intense, more micro-grained tannin – more dimension of flavour. Slowly adding layer after layer. This is a little less direct, a little less silky but it is great wine. Bravo!
A different soil, so separated. There’s more clay here, and the grapes are a little slower maturing – here needs more time.
Also a nose that’s more open – here the emphasis is on the higher tones – more weight of floral notes. Rather than a wine with extra volume, this is a wine with extra width – really a melting style of fruit flavour that slowly saturates the palate. Tannic texture for sure but virtually without grain. Bravo again! Hard to believe 14.5°!
A black sheep on the label. This second cuvée of Javernières is made from a much older parcel of vines ‘Les Impenitents’ – more than 100 years-old vines. There’s some destemming here but less.
More freshness, a classicism of aroma, almost an impression that tannin might await too with a musky spicy/pepper impression. Deep, deep, darker fruit. Again a base of texture-adjusting tannin but no grain to speak of – in terms of shape it’s round but not the largest of volume or nose but there is an innate density here that is different. Fresh finishing, layered in the finish, here a little spicy. Profound but really to wait for!