Tasted in Denicé with Cyril Picard, 07 February 2017.
Château de Cercy
+33 4 74 67 34 44
Cyril on 2016:
“My first thoughts are, that it was a difficult year, certainly difficult after the easy 2015. It rained and rained until June, not just grapes, the general agriculture of fruit production had a problem. There was one single storm in August and then another quick 8mm of rain before the harvest – which was just what we needed! I harvested from the 20 to the 26 September. I decided to do more delicate extractions as it was quite crunchy fruit. It was a complicated vintage – and I like it for that – I remain very happy, and it’s good that a different recipe is needed each year. Since 1999 we had some hail every year, but not in 2016 – though 20km on either side of us was storms with hail – nothing. Just!”
Cyril on 2015:
“Well, I’ve done 20 vintages, but it was a privilege to have grapes such as the 2015s in my hands. I’ve been lucky, I’ve had 2003 – not pruney here – 2009, 2010 and 2011. Even 2005, though I did long macerations and they are still tannic. It’s not a hot vintage, it’s a dry vintage.”
Strong reds at this domaine, and the whites are quite drinkable…
2015 Bourgogne Blanc
50% stainless-steel, the rest in foudres
Interesting, good volume, very Côte d’Or style of nose. Supple, good depth, nicely textured. Easy, tasty bourgogne blanc. There is a richness, but it is balanced by the acidity. Only in the finish is there is a little more rigour, more lime-style fruit. Almost a surprise to hear that it’s 14°.
2015 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Prestige
Longer elevage, all barrel, three years old. Lachassagne lieu dit.
Open and fresh with a very discreet note of vanilla. A little more oak impression, here, more mineral too. There is certainly richness, and good length too. The finish is wide and interesting. Today a little more austere, but not bad for the label!
Name of lieu dit – ‘It has aromas that I don’t find in my other wines so I created a different label.’
Ooh, deep and dark – fresh too, but perhaps a suggestion of reduction adding to the depth. In the mouth there is sweet, easy deep dark fruit and yes, perhaps a hint of reduction, a drag to the texture from tannin, but no real grain. Concentrated, darkly fruited and really very tasty wine. Super! In the finish a little floral too. Excellent! Again you would never guess 14 degrees!
90 year-old vines on argillo-calcaire, always harvested by hand, and quite precocious maturity here.
More transparency, dark fruited and with fine energy. Another level of texture and depth of fresh, rewarding, complex flavour. Really full of layers, and genuine deliciousness. Bravo!
2015 Moulin à Vent
Lieu-dit champagne, did once put on the label but got a letter directly from the CIVC to stop! It’s now in small letters on the back label! 12-14 months in barrel.
Deep, dark almost muscled fruit, a faint suggestion of herb above. Lush but wide and fresh and even invigorating. There grows some tannin, but always freshness – make note that this is BIG wine, but there is everything here. A little rough around the edges, but I call that character. A little licorice in the finish. Great stuff! Nicely finishing.
We tasted many, many tanks afterwards, but nothing that represented a final assembly of a particular wine…