Tasted in Moulin à Vent with Nicolas Mielly, 08 February 2017.
310 Des Thorins
Tel: +33 3 85 20 38 18
Nicolas on 2016:
“There was an enormous amount of rain which was really the problem in April and May, which give a big boost all the maladies you can think of such as mildew – which was hard to cope with when you have environmental certification – quite a number left their certification in 2016 because of that. Here we were touched in MAV mainly at the bottom of the hill by the hail – some areas losing 100% – happily from August there was a good dryness and good weather. So we had really good maturity and about 35 hl/ha – so a good result in the end. If I had to put a number on it, we lost between 2 and 3 hectares of produce through the hail.”
Nicolas on 2015:
“2015 was really a very different vintage. It was very dry at the end and our yields were only in the mid 20’s, hectolitres per hectare. We thought the style of the wines a little like 2009 to start with, but slowly we see that there is a superior balance in the 2015, despite also more alcohol – 14.5° for some…”
Bottling is planned for April for all the wines – and it’s a super set of wines – for aging!
2015 Moulin à Vent Coeur de Terroirs Vieilles-Vignes
This label since 2012, a blend of parcels of 8-10 ha depending on the vintage. Predominantly from granite soils rich in quartz. 27-28 hl/ha in this vintage. 100% destemmed, maceration with thermo-regulation (radiators) for about 18 days total cuvaison, barrels and tanks for elevage – old barrels from Jacques Prieur with, perhaps, 2% new oak. This cuvée generates about 30,000 bottles.
A wide and silky dark nose, faint accents of spice. There’s a little gas here, and a nicely layered delivery of dark fruit. A wave of finishing flavour that is really excellently persistent.
2015 Moulin à Vent Champ de Cour
1.5 hectares worth, of south-east facing granitic plot with clay. A parcel selection, where there is a little more depth of soil. The second vintage with whole clusters in the fermentation – elevage in demi-muids – one-year-old.
A more open nose of extra freshness, floral with a very faint spice. More energy, more open and mobile flavour perspective – a little drag of tannin at the base – but really a wine that has layers of flavour, in the finish too – here with a suggestion of licorice. Excellent persistence again.
2015 Moulin à Vent le Carquelin
Share this clos with Jadot – On granite rose and sand direct south-facing, taking the name of the parcel like the last wine. 1.75 hectares worth. Destemmed completely, elevage in 228 litre barrels plus demi-muids – maybe 5% new barrels.
A really deep nose, suggestions of fermentation notes. In the mouth this is very fresh, but also very ripe – almost a suggestion of volatility in this sample – I think it will be different when it’s actually ready to bottle! Worth seeing again…
O.92 ha, 70 yo vines (the rest were all 50). From the top of the parcel on what is basically decomposed rock – there’s no real soil. The vines sit below the Moulin. Sommelier bottle for this destemmed, 18-19 day cuvaison, 228 litre barrel wine with 10% new barrels.
Ooh – this is fresh, wide, comforting, beckoning! Extra fresh, lithe, growing intensity, growing base of tannin – never aggressive – a lot of dark mid-palate flavour. Fit, fast muscle. Bravo. Potentially brilliant!