Tatsed with Carine Jolly in Maligny, 05 January 2022.
Domaine Jolly & Fils
2 Rue Auxerroise
89800 Maligny
Tel: +33 3 86 47 42 31
www.domainejolly.com
Carine’s husband, Denis took on the family domaine. “It began life in the 1980s – when there were plenty of cows too! Denis’s father died when he was quite young and so the domaine was, for a time, looked after by the maternal side of the family. Some of the family’s land was inside in the Chablis AOC, so it was decided to plant it to vines.”
The domaine’s vines are mainly between Villy and Lignorelles – “All is within 3km of the domaine.” Many of the vines date from the 1970s and 1980s but they also have older vines that were planted in the 1950s – some of over 80-years-old still exist but they are being replaced due to the low yields.
22 hectares are exploited here – 13 ha of Chablis plus a little 1er cru – the rest is Petit Chablis. Mechanical harvesting – as 80% of Chablis – and tank elevage. 30-50,000 bottles are commercialised by the team here and the rest is sold in bulk. They have been exporting some of their wine since 2012…
Carine on the recent vintages:
“2020 was a good vintage for us and the wines have good natural degrees. There was some roasting of the grapes but otherwise, no real issues and the harvest volume was acceptable. We did reasonably well in 2021 too – achieving nearly 45 hl/ha here.”
The wines….
My first visit here, some wines occasionally hinting at the green of the vintage but excellent wines!
DIAM seals since 2008 here:
2020 Petit Chablis
Hmm – that’s a lovely and rather floral nose – very inviting. Broad, good concentration, a little green fruit but not too much. Intense and mouth-watering with long-finishing citrus skin complexity. That’s a fine start!
2020 Chablis
That’s also a punchy and fresh nose – nice complexity here – a little mix of citrus and the flowers. The citrus is certainly greener in the mouth but nicely vibrant and refreshing width of flavour too. Concentrated finishing and long. Impressive…
2020 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
From the part nearest Maligny and close to Homme Mort
Less impact but here is a finer nose of very fine clarity and purity – and yes, the seashore! Vibrant in the mouth – widening – this is a baby wine, linear, very impressively mineral but only suggesting austerity. You should keep this for 3 or 4 years but it’s an excellent wine.