No stunning blue skies this week, more a chance for the region to replenish some of its water table!
Some nice visits, nearly half done – 42 already in the bag (cloud!) – coffees, lunches and, of course, estate dogs!
First a triple Chablis whammy – three wines that have been staples in the last 12 months:
2020 Jacques Picq & Family, Chablis
New chez nous. Classic 2020 Chablis with a little fleshy ripe citrus fruit but plenty of structural aspects with citrus bitters. Yum.
2019 Gautheron, Chablis Cuvée Emeraude
I really like the way that this has tightened-up nicely – I loved it before bottling but it seemed a bit loose-knit afterwards. Now I see much of the wine that admired before bottling. Lovely.
2018 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonneuse
Rather like the Gautheron, this was not exactly fat but certainly a little loose-knit vs the focus of the Picq. It has also come into much better focus – my real favourite was the 2017 of this – I still have a little 2017 from here but I think it’s only Preuses – poor me 🙂
I would happily rebuy all of these!
2019 Richard Rottiers, Moulin à Vent Les Thorins
What a wine – not the ultimate in weight and concentration but when it’s as pure, beautiful and drop-dead-gorgeous as this one I couldn’t care less. Beautiful clarity – love! Bravo…
Rebuy – Yes
2010 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
Lots of colour – but hooray – this smells beautiful – ripe, rich, waxy but with a nice energy. In the mouth also a little fleshy but very, very classy and the last notes – the finish – starting to show a lovely extra, age-related, creaminess. Bravo! And not oxidise like most of my 2009s…
Rebuy – Yes
2019 Chateau Thivin, Côte de Brouilly Les Sept Vignes
I won’t bore you with anozher note – only one more of these remains in the cellar – but what a successful house wine for the last 11-12 months.
Rebuy – Yes
2020 Domaine Marrans, Fleurie Noir de Blanc
The name is a replacement for the lieu-dit of ‘Champagne’ which a certain region has not allowed the Beaujolais producers to use. Note also the small bubbles on the label – a nice middle-finger don’t you think(?)
Dark fruit of clarity – slightly metallic today. Lovely texture, with a mobile, cool-fruited, style. Simply delicious.
Rebuy – Yes
The second half of my week(1) in Beaujolais – only a little rain overnight Thurs-Friday and already sunny again before lunch on Friday, this being the only day without a morning frost:
Sunny skies!
I only saw the sun for 1 hour in my three Chablis weeks in January – but the people in Beaujolais admitted that it had been just the same for them…
Regular visitors will have noted a week without visible updates to the site – with occasional minutes where the site wasn’t reachable – or seemingly unconnected bits and pieces.
Sorry for all that, there are a few modifications and enhancements to the site that require some new plumbing, and that’s currently underway. There’s still likely to be a little tumbleweed around here for the next few days but the invisible work of publishing the new report on Chablis 2020 – 64 domaines – is also in progress and its publication will be next week.
I’ll anyway share with you a few images from the fine Beaujolais weather of this last week – I’ll also be there for the next two weeks!
My thanks…
A different Swiss merchant to my usual ‘offers.’ An even higher-end range than last year if price appreciation is to be a factor!
OLIVIER BERNSTEIN 2020 – En Primeur
In the brackets, the same price for the 2019s, last year – see what bargains the 2019s were!
PREMIERS CRUS
Domaine Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 2020 75cl 320.00 (286.00) Swiss Francs*
GRAND CRUS
Clos de Vougeot 2020 75cl 580.00 (528.00)
Clos de Vougeot 2020 150cl 1,220 (1,120)
Charmes-Chambertin 2020 75cl 580.00 (528.00)
Charmes-Chambertin 2020 150cl 1,220 (1,120)
Clos deal Roche 2020 75cl 720.00 (654.00)
Clos deal Roche 2020 150cl 1,490 (1,360)
Bonnes-Mares 2020 75cl 920.00 (795.00)
Bonnes-Mares 2020 150cl 1,900 (1,650)
Mazis-Chambertin 2020 75cl 920.00 (795.00)
Mazis-Chambertin 2020 150cl 1,900 (1,650)
Chambertin 2020 75cl 1,300 (1,200)
Chambertin 2020 150cl 2,650 (2,450)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2020 75cl 1,300 (1,200)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2020 150cl 2,650 (2,450)
Or how about 1 each of the grand crus – a 7-pack mixed case? Yours for just 6,300 vs 5,700 Swiss Francs, last year
*Swiss tax included on these prices.
After three January weeks in Chablis, I made a short interlude in Beaune this week – so I’ll add these domaine reports to my (January) Chablis report which should be out in 2 weeks: That’s 64 Chablis domaines’ 2020s, plus the six domaines from the Côte d’Or that are pictured above.
In other news, various events have been postponed or ‘repositioned’ in Burgundy: For the second year in a row – due to covid reasons – the Chablis Saint Vincent (in Fleys) has been pushed back a year, and is now planned to take place 4 & 5 February 2023. Unlike their counterparts in Chablis, Puligny/Corpeau/Blagny are still planning to run their event this year at the repositioned timing of March 19th and 20th – this coincides with the auction of the Hospices de Nuits – which has many in that place grumbling that they will see fewer visitors due to this ‘competition’ for tourists. Additionally, the Grands Jours de Bourgogne are holding firm with their plan to run this year during 21-25 March.
As, amongst others, the UK and Switzerland put forward their plans for the loosening of covid-restriction I think there will be much more optimism in Beaune, Nuits and Puligny that their events will actually take place – despite high infection rates and little indication that France will be changing their covid-related rules – at least in the very short term. I can honestly say that such large gatherings remain off the table for me at this stage, though I’m happy to continue visiting vigneron(ne)s one-on-one across their tasting tables. Indeed next week I start my three week tour of Beaujolais 2020!
Wish me, continued, luck – ie to remain ‘negative!’
Well, there have been a few that I haven’t mentioned.
Starting with a cha-cha-cha phase that was followed with a bit more Cha! Chambollow, Chiroubles, Chenas and then more from Chambolle:
First up was Pauline Passot’s 2019 Chiroubles Claudius
Lighter colour than I remember – a bit of surprise. Still absolutely delicious but like the colour this flavour profile is showing some extra maturity – a surprise for such a youngster – so it’s a wine to monitor – but life will not be hard if I have to drink the remaining bottles! Rebuy – Maybe (for now)
2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Nazoires from the Boursot brothers
A wine that is completely delicious and finely textured – no need to wait, no need to rush – it’s just drinking beautifully and will hold for at least another 10 years if you wish. Rebuy -Yes!
2018 Céline et Nicolas Hirsch, Chénas Les Brureaux
This has deep colour and lots of dark but exciting fruit. This is generous and mouth-filling wine – never ponderous, indeed a wine that is far too easy to drink right now. Easy to recommend. Rebuy – Yes
2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle Clos du Village
This wine is still deeply coloured – and what a nose! Basso-profundo, with much volume and an almost textured cushion. Great wine today and in a perfect place for drinking. Like the Gambal Charmes from a couple of weeks back, 2005 Chambolles continue to demonstrate why I consider this the epicentre of greatness in the 2005 vintage. Generous, gorgeous, flattering, delicious wine – Bravo! Rebuy – Like a shot I’ve rarely bought cases of 12 but this was one I chose directly after tasting – I had to wait for it to be bottled – though I felt it to be quite expensive at the time, ~€24 per bottle!
2017 Château Bonnet‘s Moulin à Vent Chien de Garde
Seemingly another winner. Full, well-textured the aromas and flavours also generous but delivered with fine energy. No shrinking violet, this one, but a very moreish wine. A winner! Rebuy – Yes
2019 La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay ‘l’Elégante’
The last of this little tour. Some extra colour and aromas that show more maturity than in the first 18 months I’ve been drinking it. But still showing energy and a nicely vibrant line of tasty flavour. I did prefer this wine when (even) younger (like the first wine from Passot) but it remains fresh and satisfying, tasty wine. Rebuy – Maybe
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