jean-marc & hughes pavelot’s 2000 savigny dominode

By billn on May 27, 2020 #degustation

A wine that reached a brilliant peak – for the vintage – at around 7-10-years-old. Since then, slowly downhill – but I really wasn’t expecting this…

2000 Jean-Marc & Hughes Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Dominode
A full colour, now starting to show a little age. The nose is big and punchy – but really not very nice – full of old pyrazine. I would have bet a lot (and lost!) that this was a ‘classically mature 2004.’ The palate is also shot-through with this flavour. I have no idea where it has come from as I have never previously noted any hint of such a smell and taste in this wine. A wine with zero pleasure for me – such a shame. I let it stand overnight, stoppered, in the fridge. On day 2 there is no relenting of the aroma and flavour, and with no beef bourguignon on the horizon, this was unceremoniously dumped…
Rebuy – No

But this was a very worthy replacement – it will be in my April report, online in the next few days…

chateau de laborde herve kerlan

an eery hop to Beaune…

By billn on May 26, 2020 #vintage 2020

Meursault

I truly hope that in 4 or 5 years time, the 2020 vintage will be remembered for its wines, rather than Covid-19.

Sunday-Monday I made a short excursion to Beaune – 16.5 hours in total.

It wasn’t entirely clear whether the Swiss would let me leave Switzerland, but they quizzed my reasons and then waved me on; having been away from my apartment for 12 weeks, I really wanted to check that all was well – and fortunately, it was. So I came back home to Bern as no-one is open for visits. The border officially opens 16 June – let’s see if any domaines will be open to visits then!

It was sobering to take a short walk around Beaune – Monday lunchtime but with practically nowhere to lunch – apart from a couple of sandwicheries all was closed. Not a single cafe in Place Carnot was open – but then there were also no people to be seen. Actually, far fewer people and less places open than in mid-January.

Before returning, I took a jog around some Meursault vineyards – an easy 7km photo tour – I knew you wouldn’t forgive me if I didn’t get the obligatory ‘vines in flower’ image! According to the Chambre d’Agriculture, the Côte de Beaune & and Côte de Nuits chardonnay has finished its flowering, and the pinot noir is at the mid-flowering stage. The Hautes Côtes have only their first flowers. Despite some cool weather, the strong sun has pushed the growth forward – roughly equal to, or up to two days behind, the same stage of growth as in 2007 and 2011 – so still one of the earliest vintages on record – more than a week ahead of 2015, 2017 & 2018 and an almost unbelievable 24 days ahead of 2019 – though the heat of June and July accelerated 2019 in the mid-season.

There was plenty of wind, despite the sunshine, above the level of wind allowed for treating (with sprays) so some domaines were already giving their vines a haircut. Certainly, I saw more people in the vines than in Beaune!

the recent corkscrew action…

By billn on May 25, 2020 #degustation

Well, it was Chardonnay Day – that was my excuse. A great series of wines…

2018 Séguinot-Bordet, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A big, chunky Trescases cork.
There’s freshness but also a ripeness of fruit – at this stage I wouldn’t guess ‘Chablis’ from the nose. The palate is another matter; correct, nicely driving and with a lovely citrus energy. Mineral, faintly sweetly finishing. This is a delicious glass from a bottle that empties rather more quickly than bargained for!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Yvon et Laurent Vorcoret, Chablis 1er Homme Mort
This neighbour, also with a Trescases cork.
Also fresh, more weight and minerality to the aroma too – here is Chablis. A wine of more weight and impact – it’s the vintage – pure, saline and completely delicious. The more classic of these two wines today. And drinking beautifully already!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Jacques Prieur, Montrachet
As I said – Chardonnay day! Here with a robust DIAM Origine.
A nose of depth and complexity – wow! Direct, immensely flavoured compared to the Chablis. Still, the wine opens further, almost tannic in texture, then wider too – wow – again! The oak is visible but not distracting. With this seal a wine for the ages – so hauntingly long. No ifs or buts, Grand Vin.
Rebuy – Yes

1999 François Gay, Ladoix
This, most likely, my last one of these – not tasted for a few years – but all that went before were fabulous. The cork is wine-soaked through 80% of its length but has the integrity to easily extract in one piece.
Still deeply coloured. The nose starts with a little funk – it needs 5 minutes in the glass to clear – and then we have it – beautifully pure, precise, red berry fruit of no particular age – just invitation! The palate reflects the nose – a purity of red fruity and here it is borne on beautiful acidity. There’s a little frisson of energy here that just multiplies the deliciousness of this wine. Not old, not young but à point. Fabulous…
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée St.Vivant
I think for a moment that the cork has cracked, but no, it extracts in one piece.
Plenty of colour – those boys knew how to extract! Hmm – now that’s an impressive nose – the first time I’ve noted any semblance of maturity from this wine – there is still hope for my 1999s – but still not for 10 years! The first impression in the mouth is the weight of concentration, depth and width of flavour – this is properly grand cru – complex too. It is also a wine that tightens after 20 minutes-or-so. It remains eminently drinkable and without the coarser, harder, edges of the 1999 (for example) but it remains an adolescent wine of very good parts though lacking coherence for now. In those days cheaper than many villages wines today – in that context, a worthy buy and with more potential down the road.
Rebuy – Probably Yes

Flowering? The 2020 vintage growth update…

By billn on May 21, 2020 #vintage 2020

May weather in Vosne-Romanée

Anyone tuning into social media right now will fall under a deluge of images of vines in flower.

The outliners – almost always the young vines – have already flowered. As a true(r!) measure, the BIVB has the concept of mid-flowering where a date is assigned to this point in time and, hence, a reference or comparison to other vintages is available. The mid-point of flowering in 2020 has not yet been achieved – or at least communicated – but we are close!

To compare:

Dates ex-BIVB and assembled by the Chambre d’Agriculture de Côte-d’Or

As you may note, these dates come from reference parcels of Côte de Nuits Pinot, Côte de Beaune Pinot and Côte de Beaune Chardonnay. In recent years (this is not an old measure) 2011 leads the pack with 2007 in second place.

2020 is regaining its vigour after 10 cooler and wetter days, but looks like it may be just behind, or even closely match, 2007. Otherwise, disease pressure remains low and the work – even with social-distancing – remains easy due to the benevolence of the weather. Even the Saturday market in Beaune has now re-opened, but in the vines, the rain of the last couple of weeks may be a more crucial factor if the summer of 2020 compares to the dryness of those in 2015-2019…

tonights’ work…

By billn on May 19, 2020 #degustation

a little something(s) to keep us going…

By billn on May 18, 2020 #degustation

some weekend wines

2018 Domaine Longère, Beaujolais Villages Blanc Nos 2 Elles
A Nomacorc seal; a newer ‘select green 300’ but the wine is clearly in great shape.
Modest colour. A nose of some mineral clarity and a suggestion of citrus richness – also modest, but still an invitation. Mouth-filling with a leading-edge that’s part saline part sweetly acidic. Yes, a wine of richness but there is super balance here – it’s completely deliciously flavoured. Simply excellent wine – a rarissimo…
Rebuy – Yes

1994 Bouchard Père, Volnay 1er Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot
I am completely surprised. I bought a small parcel of these perhaps 15 years ago. The started modestly interesting but slowly became more and more monolithic – zero joy and few redeeming features – so what has happened?
Decent medium red colour, not a wine that looks ‘old.’ The nose brings a little Marmite, a suggestion of flowers and a good depth of clear red fruit – that’s a good start! Width, energy and a good acidity keep this wine in control – the width, for while, suggesting some oak. Slowly mouth-watering, with the red fruit of the nose showing well in the middle flavours. It’s not ‘great’ wine but it’s tasty and interesting for sure. There is still a little tannin holding on in the finish but not to disadvantage the wine. A little more closed on day two, but still holding on – a turn-up for the books – more than modest enjoyment here!
Rebuy – Maybe

pre-weekending…

By billn on May 15, 2020 #degustation

2018 Domaine Carrette, Saint-Véran Les Mures
Cork sealed.
There’s a twist of freshness over a richer width of fruit – a waxy style to this aromatic. Really a width of flavour – there’s some impact here. Layered, rich for sure but these layers of flavour just about avoid heaviness. Tastily long and a very enjoyable SV.
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Domaine Collotte, Fixin Les Champstions
Not a well-known climat – even if you live in Fixin! Sealed with a darker, what looks like, untreated cork.
Here’s a very much less communicative nose – it suggests depth and perhaps a little salinity – but little else. Wow! Here you see the difference between the lightness of style from many in the Côte de Beaune in 2017 and the fuller concentration and colour that you find in the Côte de Nuits – there is nothing lacking. Lush, deeply fruited – almost a dark cherry cordial in style – there is tannin – but only if you go out looking for it. Accessible sweet fruit – as we have become accustomed to since 2015 – but simply a deliciously moreish wine. Yes!
Rebuy – Yes

restaurants & the elephant in the room…

By billn on May 13, 2020 #the market#warning - opinion!

It’s true of course – how could it be any different? Without restaurants – either ordering or potentially closing for good – the wine-producers of all regions have currently lost a significant part of their client-base. At this point, only Burgundy seems to be openly discussing this and that’s why they have the headline.

Major retail channels are not making up for lost sales.” Again, of course. The orders that have been placed by hotels and restaurants, less than 2 months ago, will not have been re-allocated yet, it’s too soon.

Nobody knows how the restaurant scene will look 2 years down the line, but typically it is the older, more coveted, domaines that have higher exposure to the restaurant trade. The ‘slack’ of unsold/un-ordered wine could easily be taken up by the consumer channels for these sought-after domaines – just look at how buoyant the online sales are during ‘lockdown’ – but it’s the unpaid bills from restaurants that won’t reopen, or who need to ‘re-finance’ – that’s the much bigger elephant in the room…

Burgundy Report

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