the recent corkscrew action…


Well, it was Chardonnay Day – that was my excuse. A great series of wines…

2018 Séguinot-Bordet, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A big, chunky Trescases cork.
There’s freshness but also a ripeness of fruit – at this stage I wouldn’t guess ‘Chablis’ from the nose. The palate is another matter; correct, nicely driving and with a lovely citrus energy. Mineral, faintly sweetly finishing. This is a delicious glass from a bottle that empties rather more quickly than bargained for!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Yvon et Laurent Vorcoret, Chablis 1er Homme Mort
This neighbour, also with a Trescases cork.
Also fresh, more weight and minerality to the aroma too – here is Chablis. A wine of more weight and impact – it’s the vintage – pure, saline and completely delicious. The more classic of these two wines today. And drinking beautifully already!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Jacques Prieur, Montrachet
As I said – Chardonnay day! Here with a robust DIAM Origine.
A nose of depth and complexity – wow! Direct, immensely flavoured compared to the Chablis. Still, the wine opens further, almost tannic in texture, then wider too – wow – again! The oak is visible but not distracting. With this seal a wine for the ages – so hauntingly long. No ifs or buts, Grand Vin.
Rebuy – Yes

1999 François Gay, Ladoix
This, most likely, my last one of these – not tasted for a few years – but all that went before were fabulous. The cork is wine-soaked through 80% of its length but has the integrity to easily extract in one piece.
Still deeply coloured. The nose starts with a little funk – it needs 5 minutes in the glass to clear – and then we have it – beautifully pure, precise, red berry fruit of no particular age – just invitation! The palate reflects the nose – a purity of red fruity and here it is borne on beautiful acidity. There’s a little frisson of energy here that just multiplies the deliciousness of this wine. Not old, not young but à point. Fabulous…
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée St.Vivant
I think for a moment that the cork has cracked, but no, it extracts in one piece.
Plenty of colour – those boys knew how to extract! Hmm – now that’s an impressive nose – the first time I’ve noted any semblance of maturity from this wine – there is still hope for my 1999s – but still not for 10 years! The first impression in the mouth is the weight of concentration, depth and width of flavour – this is properly grand cru – complex too. It is also a wine that tightens after 20 minutes-or-so. It remains eminently drinkable and without the coarser, harder, edges of the 1999 (for example) but it remains an adolescent wine of very good parts though lacking coherence for now. In those days cheaper than many villages wines today – in that context, a worthy buy and with more potential down the road.
Rebuy – Probably Yes

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There is one response to “the recent corkscrew action…”

  1. Thomas Blach3rd June 2020 at 6:05 pmPermalinkReply

    I still have some Thomas-Moillard Chambertin 2004. It is not the best Chambertin I have ever tasted but is certainly the best £12 Chambertin you can get.
    Also a dozen each Nuits Aux Thorey 93 and Bonnes Mares 99. I don’t suppose the latter will be ready in my lifetime but what do you think about starting the 93?

    • billn4th June 2020 at 8:47 amPermalinkReply

      Hi Tom,
      I’d certainly give the 93 a go, I had cases of this and the Malconsorts with Uvine – before they collapsed – all was ‘lost’ so no first-hand experiences from me. The 99 RSV remains a brute so I assume the BM also – though, interestingly the 98 and 00 BM are both quite approachable – I was surprised about the 98! I must also try to locate a 96 Clos du Roi – that was always a fun wine – sort-of!

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