this week’s mid-weekers

By billn on June 12, 2020 #degustation

pouilly-irancy

The Pouilly was delivered after my last report went online – so a note for you here.

2018 Ferraud, Pouilly-Fuissé L’Entreroches
A decent cork used as a seal – not domaine branded.
The nose starts with a little reduction, possibly oak – but backed with a decent freshness. Some time in the glass and the reductive element is gone and the citrus, faintly saline, is centre-stage. I like the cut, the line, of this wine, it’s incisive and very well balanced. There’s a little richness at the end of the palate where there’s also a little more visible, mineral, structure – but the perfumed flavour is excellent. This will benefit from a little patience, but it remains a very good wine from a very good Pouilly-Fuissé vintage.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Maison la Chapelle, Irancy
A good Trescases cork – Gregory doesn’t much like the industrial concept/ethos of DIAM.
Lots of colour – in 2017 the Irancys with so much colour usually got that from their césar – but there’s none of that in here. Ouch, I don’t remember this when tasted a couple of years ago, but here’s an almost painful depth of pyrazine aroma – it’s fully visible in the flavours too. I really didn’t like my first glass. Aeration massively diminishes the component and the wine becomes quite enjoyable. Decant for sure if you are sensitive to pyrazines.
Rebuy – No

the weekly vintage update…

By billn on June 09, 2020 #vintage 2020

Hail! In the last week there has been rain everywhere – anywhere between 12-36mm – and in some places it has been accompanied by hail; near Meursault-Puligny and Marsannay on June 3rd plus another (shorter) episode took place between Chambolle and Gevrey on June 8th. Vineyard damage was rare not least because the ‘grapes’ are so small. It does keep everyone on their toes, though!

For now, the 2020 vintage remains just ahead of the 2007 and 2011 vintages in terms of precocity and 3 weeks ahead of 2019 – that’s despite the cooler, wetter weather of the last days. Last week only the Hautes Côtes still had some flowering to complete, but now it’s all done.

Short and sweet – that’s enough for now!

Beaujolais: the Pasteur Institute is selling the Château des Ravatys

By billn on June 08, 2020 #the market

I see this reported in the French press today:

The Pasteur Institute, owner of the Château des Ravatys, has decided to sell the estate to help fund their research. Apparently, this follows long reflection and there is no link between this decision and the backdrop of covid-19 infections.

Set at the foot of the Mont Brouilly, the Pasteur Institute has owned this property in Saint-Lager since 1937, the sale price is estimated at 6.9 million euros. In the context of the Côte d’Or that’s practically nothing for holdings that extend to:

  1. 56 hectares, including 28 ha planted with vines (20 ha in the Côte-de-Brouilly appellation and 8 ha in Brouilly – 2019 figures).
  2. 5,500 m2 of buildings
  3. 150,000 bottles of annual production, excluding sharecropping

Ravatys also have a small plot of Chassagne-Montrachet white (pictured) it’s not clear if that is included in the transaction – their version is rather oaky.

Although the quality was not quite to the same level in 2018, the reds from here in 2017 could be favourably compared to those of a near neighbour – Château Thivin – save for Laurent Martray, there is no higher benchmark in the area.

some weekend wine, as usual with some cork work…

By billn on June 07, 2020 #degustation

barthod-2002-drouhin-2014Here’s a Bourgogne that always takes time to shed a certain austerity – it’s simply perfect right now. The second wine also has a touch of structure to subsume…

2002 Ghislaine Barthod, Bourgogne
The cork is obviously going to a problem! As the waiter’s friend exerts its pressure to lift the cork, it’s clear that the middle of the cork is soft and the worm will just pull out leaving a messy hole in the middle and the rest of the cork in place. Pff! The Ah-So is clearly the better tool here. This cork, however, still wants to extract its pound of flesh so anyway breaks and crumbles – the last 20% staying lodged in the neck but most of that was extracted by the worm of the waiter’s friend. It’s often the case that the end result of such a trial, to add insult to injury, delivers a tainted wine too – fortunately, that wasn’t the case with this bottle – my last of a half-case.
A modest, medium colour. The nose has a little smoke and soil but clarity and appealing cleanliness too – it’s very inviting – almost a grainy impression to these aromas. Pure, with beautiful acidity. This is such a mouth-watering, almost juicy-flavoured, medium-bodied wine. Red-fruited, not a bit ‘old’ just drinking beautifully. A bottle that empties much faster than most – and that’s the highest recommendation. I think I will wait a little longer for my 2005s!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune
Here’s a fine-looking and easy cork to extract – a little darker – perhaps ‘hardly’ treated. Starting a modest wine but as one of Drouhin’s flag-waving cuvées – hence, the similarity of the label to their Clos des Mouches. not least because the young vine fruit of that vineyard also ends up in these bottles – this is a wine that keeps getting better.
Of-course a younger colour than Ghislaine’s wine – but not deeper-coloured. The nose has a young and fresh perfume, though this nose also hints at a little structure. Despite the ‘village’ AOC the flavours are a little less weighty than the Bourgogne and, yes, there is just a little structural hardness here – but easy flavours are mainly the order of the day. This is a good wine but at this age, it offers no real competition for the excellence of the Bourgogne. I’d say that, structurally, I’d be waiting at least another 2-3 years for this wine – hopefully, this pause brings more interest – many 2014s are delicious right now, this is ‘easy’ but much less ‘giving’ – or at least that was the case with my home-made Shepherd’s Pie! On day two with cep risotto, this wine is transformed – more aromatic depth with blood and tobacco in the mix – also an easier-going palate of good depth of flavour. This transformation bodes well for the future I think!
Rebuy – Maybe on day one Rebuy – Yes on day 2!

the spring tastevinage 2020…

By billn on June 06, 2020 #degustation

Well, it was delayed a couple of months, and the format had to change to allow social-distancing but the Spring 2020 Tastevinage tasting happened on the 29th May. The results were just released, so here you go:

Tastevinage 105

actively auctioneering…

By billn on June 04, 2020 #the market

des ChézeauxIf there’s one part of the wine industry that seems very active during lockdown – at-least, judging by my inbox – then it’s wine auctions.

Sotheby’s are hammering it with practically simultaneous auctions in London, New York and Hong Kong; it’s the former with all those rather rare Domaine des Chézeaux bottles and magnums that I’ll be following the most – The Cointreau Collection – not least because I have quite a bit of those wines myself!

But their other auctions remain far from academic despite wall-to-wall DRC and Roumier in New York, and with so many magnums too, though I particularly loved the juxtaposition of lots 325 and 326 – bottles of Faiveley’s Musigny, next to Drouhin’s Côte de Nuits Villages 🙂

As for Sotheby’s Hong Kong ‘Summit‘ sale, many of the DRC, Rousseau and Dujac bottles are so large, and relatively young, that I seriously doubt that they were ever bought for drinking – and that’s sad.

Of course, it’s not just Sotheby’s and their clients; witness Australian author and critic James Halliday selling off (some/all?) of his collection of DRC. At 80-years-old and a couple of years senior to Aubert de Villaine of the that Vosne-Romanée domaine, this seems nothing more than sense. I just hope that a) I’m still around and b) can still, unaided, operate a corkscrew at the same age!

Enjoy your auction lots!

The 2020 vintage: now in the lead by a length…

By billn on June 04, 2020 #vintage 2020

2020 vintage update
Chambre d’Agriculture de Côte-d’Or

As you can see from the graphic above, compared to recent years, 2020 now leads the pack in ‘precocity’ – I may have made that word up(!) – and this ‘horse’ has begun to pull away from 2007, 2011 and the rest of the field.

The average temperature in May 2020 was only marginally higher than the average for that month, and rainfall a little lower, but there was about 70 more hours of sunshine than the average – and the vines clearly like their sunlight!

Only the Hautes Côtes has not completed its flowering, though most of the test areas used by the BIVB are between 50% and 100% complete. For the moment there is practically no oïdium worry and no mildew worry.

Despite no rain in the Burgundy vineyards in the last week, we are now entering a cool and wet period for the vines; hardly 20°C and it could last for a week – so this race is far from over. The weather has some storm warnings too. In farming, it’s never over until it’s over!

May 2020 Burgundy Report

By billn on June 03, 2020 #reports

May 2020 Burgundy Report… is online for subscribers.

This ‘lockdown’ report concentrates on the value propositions for 2018 Burgundy:

  • Where the real value lies in ‘2018 Bourgogne’
  • Very fine and well price 2018 Chablis 1er Vaillons
  • Super and ageworth Pouilly-Fuissé
  • 28 wines with unreserved recommendadtions from many more tasted

Enjoy!

Burgundy Report

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