Hopefully it (the future) will be only about interesting journalism…
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site updates
I had to bite the bullet – I was using too much memory (actually it was you!) on the server and they cut back to ‘contract’ levels – that’s why the site was close to off-the-map since Friday evening. Today I signed up to a much more expensive hosting package and will see how that goes over the next weeks!
I also just updated the database for the NoteFinder with over 300 new notes now viewable compared to last week – I hope it’s useful.
clos des ducs, d’angerville 2001
2001 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose remains tight and undistinguished during our time together – faintly red, slightly high-toned and floral with an occasional deep baked red fruit note – but always very understated. A silky-smooth entry and nothing more than a suggestion of tannin. The acidity is inconspiciously efficient and there seems reasonable concentration. Silky and very long are the positives, and I found no negatives – unless you count that I found relatively little. It’s tight but judging by this bottle at least, I’m not disappointed that further bottles lie in the cellar.
Rebuy – Maybe
Following the Jarollières, this was a much nicer wine, but for the price (and expectation) it needs to show much more.
a must-have – the quiver…
jean-marc boillot 2000 pommard jarollières
2000 Jean-Marc Boillot, Pommard 1er Les Jarollières
Medium, medium-minus colour. The nose is a long way towards maturity with soft, ripe and sweet red berry fruit and faint cocoa notes that could come from a 1980’s wine. In the mouth there is still a block of tannin in the middle that needs resolving that has a dry edge. Decent enough acidity, if slightly lifted. Finishes well. Still not as tasty as its first 18 months in bottle but far better than most of the years that followed. Needs anothe 2-3 years for the tannins.
Rebuy – no
tetra packed wine consumption +37% in russia (2007)
“Wine production in Tetra Pak’s aseptic carton package in Russia increased by 37% in 2007 as compared to the production in 2006. In absolute terms the volume of wine in Tetra Pak packages reached 138 million liters in 2007.
Growing consumption volume and market diversification were considered as factors for the rise in the production. Premium wine segment in carton is growing at high rate, while 1 liter Tetra Prisma Aseptic 1000 Square package indicated a sales growth of 200% in 2007.
Companies which include Uniway Management, Eugenne Bougelais Wine, and Bodegas Vinos started producing wine in carton packages in 2007. Some distribution chains currently produce their own “private label” table wine. Russian-made wine in cartons continues to displace the imported one.
In 2007, imports of wine in cartons decreased by 17%, while domestic production showed a 37% growth. According to Tetra Pak, an active market growth will continue in 2008. According to Tetra Pak’s manager S. Chaplin, further market development of wine in carton shall be accompanied by creation of an efficient distribution network and strong brands.”
more silly prices and server problems
First, apologies for yet another hosting issue with the site – 60% down since Friday evening – it’s a big job to move hosts given the site complexity I seem to have arrived at, but I may have to bite the bullet. Anyway, at least I’m not charging you!
I found the above in my mailbox last week. When I look at the pricing from first tier suppliers of Bordeaux wines (i.e. no grey-market speculation), it seems that despite the pricing outrages of ‘2005 burgundy trophy bottles’, burgundy is still relatively cheap. These offer prices (Swiss francs per six-pack) on 05 Margaux are the same per bottle as Romanée-Conti – quality is quality, but my only argument against this is that there are 350,000-plus bottles of Margaux per year versus 5,000 for Romanée-Conti! Even my bank manager used to buy cases of Margaux, but he told me he stopped with the 1990 vintage – which cost about 60 Swiss francs per bottle – he said it got expensive after that! I also note with interest the massive premium versus a good Haut-Brion that 100 Parker points brings!
PS I know it’s still a silly price (330 Swiss Francs), but clearly still cheaper than the above Haut-Brion 2004. Today I picked up the only bottle I ever saw, and one of only 146 (according to the label, and mine’s number 00099), of Faiveley’s Musigny. It’s the 2004 and will be opened at a great dinner when I’m 65 – how’s that for planning? – only 19.5 years to go!
jeanniard morey 2005
I spotted this on a usual merchant’s list for 29 francs – most ‘name’ villages wines cost 40+ francs, so naturally I was hoping for good things despite not knowing the name:
2005 Remi Jeanniard, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is high-toned and a little alcoholic with a suggestion of a red-fruit core. Smooth entry, quite well concentrated and balanced – also in the mid-palate. I was ready to love this wine – particularly for the more than interesting tariff – but the smooth tannins have a strongly bitter finish to them that’s like charcoal. I assume it’s barrel derived but there are no other oak artifacts – strange and a shame as the rest of the wine is nice. I found it hard to drink, even on day 2 it was not much better – except with overcooked pizza!
Rebuy – No
So, no tale of a new name that smashes the value barrier – that said, the concentration is not bad and there’s quite some dissolved carbon dioxide so made in reductive, quality oriented way – but that bitterness is too much – I’ll lookout for some other vintages though it seems there are a number of Jeanniards (2 weeks ago I didn’t know of any) as I find this on a UK merchant’s website for an Alain Jeanniard:
“Between his father’s death in 1978 and his picking up the reins of the family Domaine in 2000, Alain Jeanniard earned his living in the electronics industry. Then he decided to return to his roots. First, he put himself through a wine and vineyard baccalauréat in Beaune. On completing, he was immediately recruited by the Hospices de Beaune to look after their two greatest Grand Cru vineyards on the Côte de Nuits: Mazis-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche. His own estate is less glamorous, but the vines give absolutely superb fruit. He is a carefully focussed, sensitive wine-maker, with enormous talent. Two years ago, we were the first company to introduce his wines to the U.K. Burgundy enthusiasts pounced on them, for they are superb quality and value.”
I’ll ask some locals what they know!
alex gambal 2005 les amoureuses
Nectar…
2005 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
A beautiful medium-plus colour. The nose shows a width of soft fruit from the raspberry/strawberry part of the spectrum and even a hint of spice and mocha. The palate has an executive smoothness, the extract amply covering the tannin with ripe flavours. The fruit is quite primary, but is sweet and very tasty. Little complexity here, but it’s comely and very moreish.
Rebuy – Yes