saturday 27th update

By billn on September 27, 2008 #vintage 2008

Cool photo reportage from the harvest.

  • Before Lunch: So far this morning we triaged grapes from Ladoix that are destined for a Côtes de Beaune. Far, far better than my expectation; almost no rot – I may have worked only 5 vintages, but I’ve not seen cleaner grapes from such a ‘lowly’ appellation – the rub is that we still have to work hard to remove the unripe, and it’s a significant amount. The grapes are far from consitent in size, and despite returning to the table de trie and finding it sticky (like in 2005) there’s not quite the same number of drier/dried grapes as that year so I have the impression they are not quite so concentrated.
  • 3:30pm:The Volnay villages this afternoon, followed on from the Ladiox of this morning: nice ‘hand-grenade’ clusters, very rarely showing rot, but again plenty of unripe ones to remove – these less ripe clusters will make a great rosé! Now we’re waiting for our Pommard Epenots…
  • 7:10pm: Just finished our Pommard Epenots. More rot, but still less than 2006 or 2007. To balance the fruit was riper and visibly bluer than the Volnay but still some under-ripe stuff to throw away.

I won’t make any big summaries based on fruit from just 2 vineyards, but safe to say I’m positively surprised versus my expectations. Not just the fields of Pommard were full of pickers; the densely planted section of La Tâche was picked today, as was at least some of La Romanée – Louis-Michel Liger-Belair has over 50 pickers this year, and should be finished by Tuesday.

Nice report here from Mark Gough in Morey:

Deuxieme jour pour le vendange Arlaud.

Arrived Friday after leisurely drive from off the ferry at Zeebrugge circa 9.00 am. Noted lots of activity on the Montagne de Reims and the Aube vineyards from the autoroute.

Sharing a rustic (basic – very !!) flat with 6 mature French guys who have been coming to Arlaud for yrs – but 4 of them do only driving and chais work!!! Also one brave Belgian girl Sophie shares with us.

Tricky first morning in 5 hectare plot of Bourgogne Rouge (for Arlaud’s Roncevie) after far too much ‘sampling’ of the product on the first evening. Herve Arlaud kept us hard at it until 12 dejeuner in increasingly warm sunshine and same again afternoon until ‘Arret’ at 6 when most of us had just about had it !! No mid morning and mid afternoon’s breaks here as at Magenta in 06. We have almost finished the Bourgogne – not sure where we go after this. Grapes look better than I expected but I have been amazed at the savage selection on the table even for the Bourgogne. Romain Cyprien, Arlaud’s chef de cave, tells me only circa 10% kept from 2 tries. He also told me the grapes had improved massively in the run up to the vendange and that drying wind had helped concentration.

Got to go now, les autres vendangeurs locale arrivee noisily ! I love the camaraderie of the vendange and the banter.

Musnt forget my bottle of water tomorrow!!!

2004 vincent et denis berthaut gevrey clos des chézeaux

By billn on September 27, 2008 #degustation

2004 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeauxtry to find this wine...
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a dark oaky element intertwined with plenty of the 04 cedary green thing – after five minutes you have lost the dark part, it’s even eventually asparagus! In the mouth The fruit is sweet, but it’s really pushed into the background by the slightly mouth-puckering effect of the tannin/acidity. There’s plenty of that cedar thing in the mouth too. It may have a future, but it’s hard to see it.
Rebuy – No

update friday 26th sept

By billn on September 26, 2008 #vintage 2008

  1. ALAIN BURGUET
    Currently planning to start on 4th October!
  2. ALEX GAMBAL
    “In the middle of grapes. Non stop. Yields VERY low to nothing. Bizarre. Wind and cool has dried everything out and has concentrated the juice. Quality is hopeful but not very economic.” – Sounds mainly like Côte de Beaune(?)

Plus a few online things to read:

2006 chézeaux / ponsot griotte-chambertin

By billn on September 25, 2008 #degustation

In most respects, initial impressions of this wine were of the Chambolle Charmes ‘plus’ – shame there was some dodgy cork-taint…
2006 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertintry to find this wine...
The colour is just a little darker. Aromatically I started with some concerns; the cork had a bad, rancid, almost volatile smell to it, some of that showed up as ‘inner mouth perfume’ as Burghound would say – far from perfume though – but fortunately it was only very faint on the nose. Mouth-filling, plenty of very fine tannin and a width of fine red fruit that’s both sweet and lingering. It’s quite a long way from the stunning depth of the 05, but then there is enough of that strange taint that I won’t rate it and would certainly send it back in a restaurant. I didn’t open a second one right away to see if it was better…!

update thursday 25th sept

By billn on September 25, 2008 #vintage 2008

The weather is holding, so now it’s time to get serious. Here are a few early reports:

  1. DOMAINE LOUIS CHENU ET FILLES
    We started this morning with (Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er) Les Talmettes. We did a grapes selection, we have very few rotten grapes, but we have to check maturity. I will let you know…It is very sunny and a bit cold, perfect weather for the harvest…
  2. DOMAINE JOSEPH DROUHIN
    Today under this brilliant sunshine we pick a small parcel of (Beaune 1er) Clos des Mouches white and Chablis premier cru Secher, both have delicious, ripe grapes to eat…
    More to follow as harvest progresses!
  3. REMOISSENET PÈRE ET FILS
    “Ici la Bourgogne Libre. Le retour du grand beau temps depuis le 14 septembre a d’ores et déja sauvé le millesime 2008. Nous avons décidé ce matin de repousser encore le debut des vendanges chez Remoissenet pour ne démarrer que le 1er octobre. Les rendements vont etre très bas . Une bonne acidité notamment malique pour un millésime inedit, de belle garde, aux antipodes des vins raplaplas…” [always a lot of style from Bernard!]

More to follow…

2006 chézeaux / ponsot chambolle 1er charmes

By billn on September 25, 2008 #degustation

chezeaux ponsot chambolle musigny 1er cru charmes

2006 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambolle 1er Les Charmestry to find this wine...
A relatively pale young wine – medium cherry-red colour. The nose is quite tight – some depth but little width, only slowly does a little definition and a pure red note start to build, eventually there’s also a floral aspect. Super texture, the tannin slowly builds in the mouth to give a little ripple of grain, astringency and also a little bitterness. Acidity is finely balanced and there is very good intensity to the fruit, fruit that seems to become sweeter with time. Not completely full of ‘charm’ at this stage, but everything is in place – wait at least 5 years before returning.
Rebuy – Yes

mischief and mayhem 05 corton bressandes

By billn on September 23, 2008 #asides

mischief and mayhem

This was open at the same time as the 05 Bourée St.Jacques, it’s not as dense or as concentrated but it is a polished grand cru all the same.
2005 Mischief and Mayhem, Corton Bressandestry to find this wine...
A deep cherry-red core. Fine, high-toned red fruits and some dried cranberry – very nice indeed. There’s plenty of background tannin but it has fine grain. Good acidity that pushes a creamy depth of fruit very long. This is a very executive Corton and dare I say it, elegant! Not the concentration of many 2005 grand crus, but so what? Lovely wine and a very nice length.
Rebuy – Yes

on with harvesting

By billn on September 23, 2008 #vintage 2008

weatherEven ‘nameplate’ domaines are starting to gird their loins and plan their first pickings – some are already picking. ‘My’ domaine starts on Thursday with Bourgogne Rouge – despite me not arriving until Saturday – they didn’t wait!

The weather is in a dry and bright window that is exactly what’s required to ripen the grapes, the fact that it’s a ‘late’ Autumnal cold outside means that rot is less rampant than previous years – of-course there’s time yet for anything to happen, but that northerly wind is exactly what the doctor ordered to help concentrate the grapes – much like 2002. Many grapes are anyway in need of picking – it’s already 105 days + since flowering. If the forecast turns bad, you will not be able to see the vines for people with secateurs!

I’m agnostic until I see the grapes (of-course), but I’m actually quite excited from a distance; that’s because I believe that pinot noir needs the highs and lows of temperature to bring out its full complexity – I’m just not sure if we had enough highs this year 😉

Burgundy Report

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