2005 ecard savigny 1er les jarrons

By billn on March 28, 2008 #degustation

2005 Maurice Ecard, Savigny 1er Les Jarronstry to find this wine...
Medium red. Wide, slightly creamy, smooth red fruit dominates the nose. Smooth entry that runs swiftly into an intense mid-palate where the acidity starts to flow and augments a long finish. The mid-palate has some impressive complexity and weight of fruit. This wine delivers impressive concentration and complexity without obvious extraction and tannin. It clearly needs some slumber in the cellar but I’m pleased that I have some bottles waiting.
Rebuy – Yes

a brace of bachelet côte de nuits villages…

By billn on March 26, 2008 #degustation

denis bachelet cote de nuits villages 2004 2005

Domaine Denis Bachelet have updated their labels for 2005 and very nice they are too – also new and just off the picture is a tiny neck ‘lozenge’ for the vintage. I already noted in the last entry that the 2004 was problematic to start with, so I gave it a day-2 chance…
2004 Bachelet, Côtes de Nuits Villagestry to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. The nose is pungent with cedary green odours, a significant swirl is required to release a faint sweet red note. Overnighting makes little difference to the aroma profile. The palate is supple, well textured and has a ripe complexion, but the cedar is very forward here too. Excellent for CdNV length, slightly creamy – but too pungent, even on day two.
Rebuy – No
2005 Bachelet, Côtes de Nuits Villagestry to find this wine...
Maybe a shade paler than the 2004, but there is still quite deeply coloured core. The nose is wide, with high-toned black berry-notes and a softer underbelly that hints at, but never really shows its cream. Mouth-filling, with almost covered, velvet tannin. Lots of primary fruit extract and a good expansion in the mid-palate. This is seriously lovely – with emphasis on the serious. I’ll have to check the price – and availability…
Rebuy – Yes

bachelet is not immune (2004 and all that…)

By billn on March 25, 2008 #degustation

I just opened the 2004 Denis Bachelet Côte de Nuits Villages and if you are sensitive (and I am), it’s cedar-green hell. I’ll give it a chance and return tommorrow when I’ll also open the new-liveried 2005 version…

4 whites while skiing…

By billn on March 25, 2008 #degustation#travel

A lovely weekend that started with a four hour drive – it should be less than three – through rain, snow and holiday traffic to arrive at Klosters. The snow was still coming down when we went to bed, four white burgundies behind us:
2004 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents de Chientry to find this wine...
Medium yellow. Nose starts with savoury oak which slowly fades to nice brioche – wide and interesting – it’s a good start. Soft and smooth texture, widening on the palate. It’s a little mineral and has super balance. Could perhaps benefit from an extra depth, but maybe it’s just tightness that I perceive. Very nice length and the nose remains interesting throughout.
Rebuy – yes
2005 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents de Chientry to find this wine...
Slightly deeper colour versus the 2004. The nose is less wide, but deeper with more fruit and fainter brioche. More width and density, plenty of acidity but it’s just a little prickly. More oaky dimension on the mid-palate and more faintly lingering. There is more material here but today it’s a less seamless package than the 2004. Still great value.
Rebuy – yes
2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Meursault 1er Les Peruzotstry to find this wine...
Medium yellow. The nose shows nice floral tones over the faint brioche. The palate shows well-textured concentration with the acidity just bubbling away under the surface before breaking through into the mid-palate. An interesting extra edge of flavour before (very) slowly fading into the finish. A fine example.
Rebuy – yes
2004 Philippe Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet Rue Rousseautry to find this wine...
Medium-plus yellow. High-toned green and yellow fruit and, for the first 15 minutes some oak. High-toned ripe fruit on the palate, slightly estery. Very bright in the mid-palate and quite wide too before fading into the finish. This has a rather full and round fruit profile, which is not my favourite style – just seems to lack for elegance. Good wine if you like the style, but doesn’t say ‘Puligny’ to me though.
Rebuy – Maybe

klosters

Early next morning (despite the wine!) the snow had stopped and we headed hopefully for the slopes, maybe the skies would clear… We chose the Rhinerhorn on the other side of Davos for the expected mix of piste, off-piste (not me – I don’t need ‘beeps’ and ABS rucksacks for thrills!) and quiet slopes – everything was delivered in perfect blue ski!

Day two saw the weather close in, so forget skiing, we made a two and a half hour walk through deep snow and steep slopes to a restaurant where lunch took over 3 hours (apparently Prince Charles and entourage may make it there this week) – we decided to cancel our evening restaurant reservation and watched Jack Nicholson instead on DVD.

So only one day skiing, but it was a good one. It’s interesting to note that while Switzerland spends billions of francs so that tourist traffic may by-pass (via bridges and tunnels) assorted towns, many of the interconnected network of ‘hills’ which those ski-tourists come for, make do with antiquated t-bars and chair-lifts whilst local gemeindes (councils) argue over 2 million here or there to make refurbishments – comic! Another snippet of gossip; apparently (Sir) Norman Foster is planning a second gherkin for the slopes above Davos – some locals are outraged – but frankly Davos can only be improved by such a construction, it is far from a pretty village, rather one long road with assorted (sometimes nice) buildings on either side – apart from the WEF, I hear that Davos is losing most of it’s cachet (i.e. high-roller tourists) to St.Moritz…

more travel – this time paid

By billn on March 20, 2008 #asides#travel

easter buddies bunniesDays of meetings and customer visits whilst avoiding tidal waves of reorganisations back at home – all will come to roost eventually. I spent yesterday evening with a glass (or 2) of chardonnay in a pub while watching football – I don’t drink beer, but white wine by the glass in a pub is usually fit for purpose, red not so often!

I’ll take a few interesting bottles to our friend’s place for the Easter weekend and maybe even write a note about them sometime early next week – I might even ski…

Have a nice Easter…

already writing a list to santa?

By billn on March 20, 2008 #accessories#asides

angels share

You know you wants it! [Gollum]

“The Angelshare single-bottle cellar that special bottle of wine in its own temperature and humidity controlled time capsule for that special occasion in the future, whether it’s a birthday, anniversary, graduation or other significant event in your life or of those closest to you.
The compact dimensions and elegant, understated design makes the single-bottle cellar a focal point in any setting and an ideal presentation package to treasure.”

wine ‘tourism’ and independence

By billn on March 19, 2008 #travel

I use the quotation marks because I’m not really talking about ‘real’ tourists, rather the ever-increasing global band of ‘writers’ who travel the world at the expense of regional marketing groups – worldwide – it seems a nice life! In itself there is nothing wrong with this symbiotic relationship as the journalist arrives, learns, tastes and (hopefully) objectively provides opinion and some exposure for the region – this is the professional version. What raised my eyebrows during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne (a visit which was paid for with my own cash – but did get me invitations to some nice meals!) was the number of ‘professionals’ that I met who had had their air tickets and hotels paid for by the burgundy marketing groups – the number of people was not the issue, rather the apparent lack of knowledge of the region that a few exhibited. Personally speaking I see the Grands Jours as the ideal opportunity (for example) to taste a number of Volnays in one room with their producers and then Pommards in another room with their producers, to learn about and contrast and eventually deepen your knowledge of styles, terroir etc.. Some I spoke to needed help with grape varieties, hierarchy of crus etc., etc.. I hope I’m not being elitist about this, but I expect that if someone was paying my fare, I would have (at least) made some basic research! In this latter case, I wonder what value will eventually accrue to BIVB/AVCO etc…

That leads me to the term ‘independent’. One of the ‘professionals’ I met described themselves as a completely independent critic – that got me thinking – can a critic ever be independent? I suppose it depends on the context of the word independent; a writer who occasionally writes a wine-related critique can largely be said to be independent because their living is not directly linked to the vine. Anyone whose income stream is dependent on their critique of wines is by definition, not independent of the industry – whatever they say, even if not paid directly by that industry – but that doesn’t mean that they are not independent of thought. 😉

sylvie esmonin 2005 gevrey

By billn on March 18, 2008 #degustation

sylvie esmonin gevrey chambertin

I bought one bottle each of this, the Vieilles-Vignes and the Clos St.Jacques to compare and then decide which to purchase more of – but within days everything was sold – so the bigger brother and sister are packed away for a date together in the future.
2005 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with blue and black-skinned fruit over soft base that very faintly hints to stems – slowly the fruit becomes a nice precise currant note with a passing mint-leaf aroma. Silky-soft texture that’s linear to start and widens a little before black-cherry fruit takes over. The finish is distinguished by a slowly lingering softly-sweet flavour.
Rebuy – Yes

Plus a day in the life

2006 bouzeron blanc from a et p de villaine

By billn on March 17, 2008 #degustation

Short and sweet for a very pretty wine:
2006 A et P de Villaine, Bouzeron (Blanc)try to find this wine...
High-toned fruit on the nose. Lovely acidity that carries fresh, sweet fruit into a medium finish. A very pretty and understated wine. Lovely.
Rebuy – Yes

While I’ve been away, two articles of interest:

Burgundy Report

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