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marko de morey’s roi chambertin tasting gallery – 16 november

week 46’s ‘rogues’ gallery

More visits to savour this week, mopping up the last few domaines that major in white – that report will appear in the next days – while starting in earnest to make my way into the Côte de Nuits…

4 days of pics in the côtes

From Tuesday to Friday – allover the place:
 

offer of the day – Faiveley 2016…

I missed the 14s, but here you can see the same merchant’s prices (in Switzerland) for the 12s, 13s, 15s and now the 2016s. The format here for the prices is simple: 2016 (2015, 2013, 2012) and — if not previously offered…

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2016 – En Primeur

PREMIERS CRUS
Pommard Rugiens 2016 75cl 86.00 (—)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2016 75cl 84.00 (78.00, 72.50, 69.80) Swiss Francs*
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2016 150cl 173.00 (161.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2016 75cl 115.00 (98.00, 98.00, 98.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2016 15ocl 235.00 (—)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2016 75cl 135.00 (128.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2016 75cl 132.00 (124.00, 119.00, 119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2016 75cl 249.00 (229.00, 228.00, 228.00)

GRAND CRUS
Corton Clos des Cortons 2016 75cl 169.00 (149.00, 139.00, 139)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2016 150cl 343.00 (303.00, 283.00, 283)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2016 300cl 736.00 (656.00, —, —)
Echezeaux 2016 75cl 165.00 (149.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2016 75cl 198.00 (179.00, 167.00, 169)
Mazis-Chambertin 2016 150cl 401.00 (363.00, —, —)
Mazis-Chambertin 2016 300cl 852.00 (776.00, —, —)
Grands Echezeaux 2016 75cl 208.00 (198.00, 198.00, —)
Charmes-Chambertin 2016 75cl 165.00 (—)
Charmes-Chambertin 2016 75cl 189.00 (—)
Clos de Vougeot 2016 75cl 159.00 (—)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2016 75cl 299.00 (278.00, 249.00, 235)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2016 150cl 603.00 (561.00, 503.00, 475)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2016 300cl 1,256.00 (1,172.00, —, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2016 75cl 745.00 (659.00, 598.00, 598)

Bâtard-Montrachet 2016 75cl 298.00 (—)
Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet 2016 75cl 269.00 (—)
Corton Charlemagne 2016 75cl 189.00 (169.00, 169.00, 159)

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

There was some price restraint in 2015, so I might have anticipated less-so given the frost of 2016, but it seems that, rather than based on specific yields, there might be some ‘lifestyle’ pricing’ for the grand crus, certainly the larger formats…
[EDIT]: One month later, this merchant sent out the list again – either they have unlimited availability, or there isn’t too much custom at these prices!

Thursday is 2017 Beaujolais Nouveau day – here are 142 wines blind tasted for you…

Tasted courtesy of Interbeaujolais in Villefranche, 02 November 2017

This Thursday, the 16th of November, is Beaujolais Nouveau day. For almost as long as I can remember, I always find myself a glass to drink on that day – but one is typically enough!

Whatever you might think about the waning importance of Beaujolais Nouveau, in 2016, 25.2 million bottles of the stuff were sold. Outside of France, the largest markets are Japan, followed by the United States and Canada.

But despite the contraction in sales over (at least) the last 10 years, the region still hasn’t given up on this label. In an effort to improve the image of their wines, the producers have reduced their focus on crazy races to deliver bottles of dubious quality to restaurants of dubious quality, rather deciding to make the wines better – who would have thought of that? But on the other hand they have, at the same time, made your choice more complicated – today there isn’t just one Beaujolais Nouveau, there are two – there is also the higher classification of Beaujolais Villages Nouveau!

Just so that you don’t have to (but feel free!), I tasted through 142 Nouveaux on the 2nd of November – 77 Beaujolais Nouveau (BJN) and 65 Beaujolais Villages Nouveau (BJVN). From the large first group of BJN, I picked out for you 9 absolutely delicious wines, and from the BJVNs I picked out 15 – but that was harder work, and here there is an additional complication: By and large the BJVN are more concentrated, more tannic and generally not for drinking on Thursday – you should probably wait at least 12 months for most of them to start drinking well! This rather begs the question, what are they for then? Discussing a with a fellow taster – writing for Bettane & Desseauve – it seems that this question, whilst entirely reasonable to me, is a very Anglo-Saxon question!

The French, it seems, don’t just drink BJN (or BJVN!) on the third Thursday in November. They visit a shop, select a BJN (or BJVN!), they buy a case, they drink one or two bottles on the third Thursday of November and then drink the rest over the next 12 months – until it’s time to start all over again. It seems, that in French eyes (at least) that drinking this wine on only one day per year, is particularly Anglo-Saxon – so whilst we might struggle with the concept (or utility) of a BJN (or BJVN!) de garde – that’s just our problem!

2017 with its warm and friendly vintage conditions – one hailstorm excepted – has provided wine of delicious ripeness and good character. The quality is generally high with many more ‘hits’ than ‘misses’ – nearly 20% I recommend highly, but 10% of the wines I wouldn’t want to take a second glass…

Anyway, all the following wines were tasted blind, I later mated the list of names my numbered tasting-notes, picking out those that I could highly recommend. The highly recommended wines follow directly. My favourite wine of the whole tasting being the wine (the BJVN wine!) of Maison Trenel – highlighted in that list.
 

9 selected Beaujolais Nouveaux, from 77 wines tasted:

Château de L’Eclair, L 16401
Nose is super. Bright fresh delicious – this is really excellent – can it be so easy?!

Duboeuf Georges
Big, bright delicious nose. Lots of flavour, a little gas, but very tasty – yes! A great finish too.

Mommessin
Deep, mineral, dark fruit – nice. Again gas. Layers of flavour – great flavour here. Super!

Paris Christophe
This is a deep and attractive nose. Supple, nice texture, great finishing flavour too!

Perroud Robert, Nature
A heavy bottle. Very deep. Direct, linear, only slowly giving up its melting flavours. Superior wine here with a fine finish – yes!

Fellot Emmanuel, Vieilles Vignes
A concentrated nose of depth. Supple, great weight but fresh too. Mouth-watering flavour – more tannin than the last. A great finish – Yes!

Château de la Valette – Crespin Jean Pierre
Depth but slightly tight nose. Fresh, lovely mid-palate energy – hmm – not many like this. Yes!

Oedoria, Coeur D’Automne
Hmm – nice – open, complex and attractive nose. Lots of distinction in the flavour here – complex and delicious.

Olivier Coquard, Nature
Tight nose. Open and attractive, complex, fresh palate. Lots to find here – this is super!
 

15 selected Beaujolais Villages Nouveaux, from 66 wines tasted:

Collin Bourisset, Cuvée à la Con
Modest depth but an attractive width of dark and fresh fruit. Good volume, layered fresh fruit. Late arriving sucrosity and fine intensity. A lovely finish. Excellent!

de Vermont Yannick
Deep, complex, fresh – interesting! Volume, complexity – ooh – this is good! Excellent!

Gelin Gilles, Le Vin des Copains
A tight-ish but highly attractive nose of pure dark fruit. Lots of structure and some astringence of tannin. This is a wine to wait at least a year for but it is simply super wine.

Domaine Joncy, La Trad’Nature
Red wax topped. Wide and quite floral with an easy fruit I the middle. On the plate the texture is very silky, the flavours are quite individual but very floral and enticing. Delicious despite the young impression. Super!

Tête Louis
Nice, quite open and with good depth. In the mouth, plenty of dimension and complexity – this is very fine and a little saline too.

Domaine de la Milleranche – Corsin J et Roussot S, Anima Vinum
An inky-deep nose. Wide, fresh some decent intensity here. Layers of finishing flavour – very young finishing flavour! To wait for but with super material and more than a touch of finishing tannin

Lacondemine Jérôme, Coeur de raisin
Ooh – deep, floral – very lovely! Fresh, faintly mineral, lots of complexity. Great but painfully young wine. Superb

Jambon Dominique
A wide and fresh nose – highly attractive. Plenty of fresh volume. Slowly the waves of flavour wash over the palate. Really a great finish!

Lafont Jean Marc, Cuvée Centenaire
Also inky-deep but something very attractive and high-toned escapes the glass too. Supple, über-concentrated, layered flavour. Wait 3-5 years – no joke. Super wine!

Dumas Pierre André, Cuvée vinifiée par Aurélie Durnerin
Deep colour. Super concentrated nose with some modest high-tones escaping – attractive. Too much gas but so much energy and complexity. Super wine, delicious wine…

Trenel
Ooh a very lovely floral top note here – quite distinctive. Fresh, vigorous and delicious. There is depth and great interest for me here – this could be the best wine of the day…

Ferraud P et Fils
A tighter nose but of some saline interest. Really a lot of volume here, but the mouth-watering flavour cuts through the young tannin. Fine fresh fruit – excellent!

Château de la Grand’Grange, Vieilles Vignes
Nice fresh fruit on this nose – dark fruit – lovely. Supple, concentrated, layered flavour. Long. Super wine – nearly as good as #53…

Domaine de Colette – Gauthier Jacky
Plenty of volume and fresh aromatic complexity. Big, depth of flavour. Nice texture. Waves of fine finishing flavour. Another top wine…

Chatelus Pascal
Bottle 1 corked – the only one of the tasting. Here bottle 2. Deep nose that’s tight above, more open below. Supple and concentrated. Layers of great flavour – this is excellent…
 
Click here to see all the remaining notes!

monday/tuesday – chambolle/premeaux/gevrey…

Just a few views from this week – so far…
 

weekend wines – week 45 2017 – a brace of caillerets


To paraphrase James Bond – Caillerets. Volnay Caillerets…

2010 Nicolas Rossignol, Volnay 1er Cailleret
A completely unbranded cork, just a serial number.
Good deep colour. The nose is rather round, padded with some oak spice – seemingly a textured aromatic but I’m missing the clarity of fruit I look for in a Caillerets. Supple entry, nice weight of flavour, complex too with a fine balance – there’s a beautiful velvet texture but like the nose, this is very much today an oak-spiced wine rather than a wine of fruit – or indeed Volnay. Very tasty wine but clearly opened far too young if you want to find its inner Caillerets…
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Rebourgeon-Mure, Volnay 1er Caillerets
Just a shade lighter in colour. This nose has higher tones and a more obvious base in fruit – dark-red fruit of nice clarity. More obviously silky as there is less overt tannic grain. Melting fruit flavour with just a faint texture of tannin in the finish. Slowly mouth-watering in the finish. This, is the more overtly Caillerets wine of the two today, I’d still like a little more dimension of aroma, but the finish is first class. Really lovely wine…
Rebuy – Yes

burgundy report – always topical


A Meursault street…

pommard’s clos de la commaraine


The château, pictured this week.

Laurent Gotti’s fine site (here, in French) this week broke the news on another, much lower profile, domaine/vines purchase in Burgundy – that of the Château de la Commaraine in Pommard, and it’s 3.75 hectare monopoly of the Clos de la Commaraine – Pommard 1er Cru, no less. The sellers were the Jaboulet-Vercherre family, the wine having been made, for some time, by Louis Jadot.

At first sight, this is also an expensive acquisition – approaching a million euros per hectare – for ‘only’ 1er cru land, and relatively under the radar premier cru land at that – we are not talking Rugiens here. It is not simply a vineyard purchase though, there is a (externally, at least) fine-looking château included in the price, a building that alone would have an asking price over €1 million. Gotti notes that the new owners plan this to be a luxury leisure retreat, so their strategy is as much about oenotourisme (the local buzzword for a couple of years now) as it is about wine.

So it seems that with the Château de la Commaraine, plus the Château de Pommard, Pommard is to become the new chic destination of jet-setters – I trust that all the new château owners have bullet-proof marketing projections 🙂

Edit, 18 Nov 2017
One week later, much more info here, via Decanter…

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