some radio silence – there’s plumbing work underway!

By billn on February 12, 2022 #site updates

Regular visitors will have noted a week without visible updates to the site – with occasional minutes where the site wasn’t reachable – or seemingly unconnected bits and pieces.

Sorry for all that, there are a few modifications and enhancements to the site that require some new plumbing, and that’s currently underway. There’s still likely to be a little tumbleweed around here for the next few days but the invisible work of publishing the new report on Chablis 2020 – 64 domaines – is also in progress and its publication will be next week.

I’ll anyway share with you a few images from the fine Beaujolais weather of this last week – I’ll also be there for the next two weeks!

My thanks…

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offer of the day – olivier bernstein 2020…

By billn on February 05, 2022 #asides

DSC06150A different Swiss merchant to my usual ‘offers.’ An even higher-end range than last year if price appreciation is to be a factor!

OLIVIER BERNSTEIN 2020 – En Primeur
In the brackets, the same price for the 2019s, last year – see what bargains the 2019s were!

PREMIERS CRUS
Domaine Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 2020 75cl 320.00 (286.00) Swiss Francs*

GRAND CRUS
Clos de Vougeot 2020 75cl 580.00 (528.00)
Clos de Vougeot 2020 150cl 1,220 (1,120)
Charmes-Chambertin 2020 75cl 580.00 (528.00)
Charmes-Chambertin 2020 150cl 1,220 (1,120)
Clos deal Roche 2020 75cl 720.00 (654.00)
Clos deal Roche 2020 150cl 1,490 (1,360)
Bonnes-Mares 2020 75cl 920.00 (795.00)
Bonnes-Mares 2020 150cl 1,900 (1,650)
Mazis-Chambertin 2020 75cl 920.00 (795.00)
Mazis-Chambertin 2020 150cl 1,900 (1,650)
Chambertin 2020 75cl 1,300 (1,200)
Chambertin 2020 150cl 2,650 (2,450)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2020 75cl 1,300 (1,200)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2020 150cl 2,650 (2,450)

Or how about 1 each of the grand crus – a 7-pack mixed case? Yours for just 6,300 vs 5,700 Swiss Francs, last year

*Swiss tax included on these prices.

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this week in the côte – visits and (over?) large events

By billn on February 03, 2022 #events#reports

After three January weeks in Chablis, I made a short interlude in Beaune this week – so I’ll add these domaine reports to my (January) Chablis report which should be out in 2 weeks: That’s 64 Chablis domaines’ 2020s, plus the six domaines from the Côte d’Or that are pictured above.

In other news, various events have been postponed or ‘repositioned’ in Burgundy: For the second year in a row – due to covid reasons – the Chablis Saint Vincent (in Fleys) has been pushed back a year, and is now planned to take place 4 & 5 February 2023. Unlike their counterparts in Chablis, Puligny/Corpeau/Blagny are still planning to run their event this year at the repositioned timing of March 19th and 20th – this coincides with the auction of the Hospices de Nuits – which has many in that place grumbling that they will see fewer visitors due to this ‘competition’ for tourists. Additionally, the Grands Jours de Bourgogne are holding firm with their plan to run this year during 21-25 March.

As, amongst others, the UK and Switzerland put forward their plans for the loosening of covid-restriction I think there will be much more optimism in Beaune, Nuits and Puligny that their events will actually take place – despite high infection rates and little indication that France will be changing their covid-related rules – at least in the very short term. I can honestly say that such large gatherings remain off the table for me at this stage, though I’m happy to continue visiting vigneron(ne)s one-on-one across their tasting tables. Indeed next week I start my three week tour of Beaujolais 2020!

Wish me, continued, luck – ie to remain ‘negative!’

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some missing wines

By billn on February 01, 2022 #degustation

Well, there have been a few that I haven’t mentioned.

Starting with a cha-cha-cha phase that was followed with a bit more Cha! Chambollow, Chiroubles, Chenas and then more from Chambolle:

First up was Pauline Passot’s 2019 Chiroubles Claudius
Lighter colour than I remember – a bit of surprise. Still absolutely delicious but like the colour this flavour profile is showing some extra maturity – a surprise for such a youngster – so it’s a wine to monitor – but life will not be hard if I have to drink the remaining bottles! Rebuy – Maybe (for now)
2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Nazoires from the Boursot brothers
A wine that is completely delicious and finely textured – no need to wait, no need to rush – it’s just drinking beautifully and will hold for at least another 10 years if you wish. Rebuy -Yes!
2018 Céline et Nicolas Hirsch, Chénas Les Brureaux
This has deep colour and lots of dark but exciting fruit. This is generous and mouth-filling wine – never ponderous, indeed a wine that is far too easy to drink right now. Easy to recommend. Rebuy – Yes
2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle Clos du Village
This wine is still deeply coloured – and what a nose! Basso-profundo, with much volume and an almost textured cushion. Great wine today and in a perfect place for drinking. Like the Gambal Charmes from a couple of weeks back, 2005 Chambolles continue to demonstrate why I consider this the epicentre of greatness in the 2005 vintage. Generous, gorgeous, flattering, delicious wine – Bravo! Rebuy – Like a shot I’ve rarely bought cases of 12 but this was one I chose directly after tasting – I had to wait for it to be bottled – though I felt it to be quite expensive at the time, ~€24 per bottle!
2017 Château Bonnet‘s Moulin à Vent Chien de Garde
Seemingly another winner. Full, well-textured the aromas and flavours also generous but delivered with fine energy. No shrinking violet, this one, but a very moreish wine. A winner! Rebuy – Yes
2019 La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay ‘l’Elégante’
The last of this little tour. Some extra colour and aromas that show more maturity than in the first 18 months I’ve been drinking it. But still showing energy and a nicely vibrant line of tasty flavour. I did prefer this wine when (even) younger (like the first wine from Passot) but it remains fresh and satisfying, tasty wine. Rebuy – Maybe

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Chablis 3rd week 2022

By billn on January 26, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

Just a few pics so that you know that I’m alive 😉

Only a couple of covid-induced programme changes so far this week – and it’s damn chilly too!

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offer of the day – henri boillot 2020

By billn on January 23, 2022 #the market

henri-boillot-charlemagne

Domaine Henri Boillot 2020 – en primeur
As always, from my local Swiss merchant who makes this offer about the same time each year.
I leave you with the 2019, 2018 and the 2017, pricing in brackets. Well, you didn’t expect it to go down did you? – Just be happy that the Bourgogne didn’t increase 🙂
— = not offered

Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020 75cl 29.00* (29.00, 26.00, 23.00) Swiss Francs

St.Aubin 1er 2020 75cl 55.00 (—)

Meursault Les Gouttes d’Or 2020 75cl 105.00 (95.00, —)
Meursault Clos Richemont 2020 75cl 115.00 (105.00, —)
Meursault Les Genevrières 2020 75cl 129.00 (125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Meursault Les Perrières 2020 75cl 138.99 (—, 125.00, 115.00)

Puligny-Montrachet 2020 75cl 58.99 (58.00, 55.00, 52.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Folatières 2020 75cl 135.00 (125.00, —)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2020 75cl 135.00 (125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 2020 75cl 129.00 (115.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 2020 75cl 138.00 (128.00, 115.00, 108.00)

Corton Charlemagne 2020 75cl 205.00 (188.00, 175.00, 168.00)
Montrachet 2020 75cl 945.00 (895.00, 845.00, 795.00)

Volnay Les Chevrets 2020 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 89.00, 89.00)
Volnay Les Caillerets 2020 75cl 99.00 (99.00, 99.00, 99.00)

Clos de Vougeot 2020 75cl 185.00 (179.00, 169.00, 158.00)
Echézeaux 2020 75cl 239.00 (229.00, 229.00, —)
Bonnes-Mares 2020 75cl 350.00 (330.00, 319.00, 298.00)
Chambertin 2020 75cl 350.00 (—, 319.00, 298.00)

*The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

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2000 Burgundy – en primeur tasting

By billn on January 21, 2022 #degustation#the market

Yes, you read that right – 2000 – only my second diary ‘post’ on this website – 20 years ago today (near-enough) with cameos from Jancis and Joanna Simon.

I was happy with the wines that I decided to buy that year – if only three from this address and at this stage. I remember being able to buy all that I wanted in both 1999, and in 2000 too. Come to think about it, the first time where I got ‘blocked’ – despite having bought the same wines since 1999 – was the 2005 vintage. I cancelled the remainder of my order in a fit of pique!

lambraysIf I search hard, maybe a lone bottle of the 2000 Engel remains – but none of the Clavelier or the Lambrays – the Lambrays was disappointing when delivered as it was far oakier than the en-primeur sample. It was fine after 7-8 years though.

But what about those prices – eh? The Engel was the same price as I paid for my 1999s. The Clos de Tart was already quite expensive and starting something of an upward surge – £52 in 2000 but already £71 in the 2001 vintage where I (still) bought a measly 3! And 2000 Rousseau Bèze for £60 anybody? With 20:20 hindsight I’d be able to replace my Aston-Martin every couple of years by selling 3 or 4 cases. Oh, sorry. I meant my Subaru – though it has just completed its 500,000-kilometre service!

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Results from the 36th Concours des Vins de Chablis

By billn on January 20, 2022 #annual laurels

Guillaume Baroin tasting Chablis 2020This annual event took place last weekend. They have stopped inviting me to be part of the jury as I always decline – with already 3 weeks of tasting in Chablis in January I’d never be home if I stopped to do this at the weekend too 🙂

The jury chief this year was Guillaume Baroin – with whom I make a number of tastings each year. Image right of Guillaume in action – from the BIVB.

As each year they largely taste the most recent commercial vintage – in this case, the 2020s – but they always wait an extra year for the grand crus. So it was the 2019s for the gcs.

The results have been published (in French) and I include a link to the pdf of the results, below.

Enjoy this link

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offer of the day – thibault liger-belair’s 2020s

By billn on January 19, 2022 #the market

Thibault Liger-Belair 2021Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
2020 EP/Pre-Arrivals

Prices from my Swiss merchant. When offered, the prices of the 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016 & 2015s (from the same source in previous years) are in brackets for comparison. Not offered is indicated by —
And still no Beaujolais!

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 75 cl La Charmotte 75cl 59.00* (55.00, 55.00, 52.00, 55.00, 49.50) (Swiss Francs)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Les Belles Croix 75cl 59.00 (55.00)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er Les Saint-Georges 75cl 148.00 (135.00, 125.00, 119.00, 118.00, 109.00)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er Les Saint-Georges 150cl 318.00 (285.00, 260.00, 248.00, 256.00, – )
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Aux Beaux Bruns 75cl 84.00 (75.00)
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Fouchères 75cl 84.00 (75.00)
VOSNE-ROMANEE Aux Réas 75cl 79.00 (75.00, 75.00, 69.50, 76.00, 69.50)

CORTON CLOS DU ROI 75cl 174.00 (159.00, 159.00, 159.00, 159.00, — )
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 174.00 (165.00, 165.00, 159.00, 169.50, 158.00)
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN 75cl 205.00 (175.00, 175.00, 169.00, — , — )
RICHEBOURG 75cl 550.00 (445.00, 425.00, 398.00, — , 395.00)
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 245.00 (—, 189.00, 189.00, 198.00, — )

*As always, these wines are without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax but include the cost of delivery…
So, rises, but really of a modest level versus a number of producers’ 2020s…

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