A range of older Clos de Vougeot, tasted in the Château de Vougeot itself, 17 March, 2014. Poured, in shifts, by the winemakers themselves.
No duds, but there really were a few quite exceptional bottles! If I could take only one, Confuron-Cotetidot’s was the wine for me…
2003 Anne Gros, Clos de Vougeot Le Grand Maupertuis
Some herby development here, complexity too – very engaging. A sweet width encompasses the tannin, making it just an anecdote. Ripe but far from ‘too ripe’ with a little licorice and some freshness in the mid-palate. Actually, a super drink today.
2003 Daniel Rion, Clos de Vougeot
A super width of developing herby notes over a core of sweetness. Silky, concentrated and with good energy too. A burlier wine than that of Anne Gros, but with fine fruit flavour. Yum!
2003 Arnoux-Lachaux, Clos de Vougeot
Deeper, darker, fecund, real density of fruit – raspberry! – super! Wide and round though clearly very young. The tannin slowly builds and bosses the wine a little – clearly a baby but with lots of potential.
2002 Gérard Raphet, Clos de Vougeot
The nose is super-deep and shows a little herby development – rather inviting with beautiful fruit above. In the mouth this is more loose-knit yet no lack of concentration and plenty of complexity. I’d say that this is drinking quite well, already…
2002 Jacques Prieur, Clos de Vougeot
Lovely depth of faintly herbed aroma. Width on the palate with a lovely energy and freshness. Young, still with plenty of tannin. Very tasty and it finishes well too.
2001 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot
Lots of herbs, indeed aromatically I would say quite some maturity. Forward, sweet and very tasty. The tannin suggests that maybe you should continue to wait for this bottle, but it tastes super.
2000 Mugneret-Gibourg, Clos de Vougeot
Lovely nose; there’s width and complexity, even a hint of salt. Lithe, fresh and complex – this is very lovely – both 2000s belie the view that it’s an ‘average’ vintage.
Fresh, flighty, complex and inviting. A width of ripe tannin and lovely acidity. Here is the first wine with a great extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate to match the grand cru heft. Of-course the tannin still says ‘wait!’
High tones, herbs and complexity – great depth too. This is really wide and concentrated – there’s so much wine here, almost too much! Brilliant, but you should wait for it to accommodate you, rather than challenge you!
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils, Clos de Vougeot
Wide vista of aromas, a real complexity of concentrated herbs. Sweet and almost silky, this is very tasty. Yes, the tannin slowly exerts a grip, yet this is a lovely, young if modestly concentrated wine.
1999 Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot
Soft, very pretty fruit with the suggestion of a more floral dimension. Wide, the softest of the 1999 tannin yet with good focus. This is very lovely and easily the friendliest of these 1999s today.
1998 Faiveley, Clos de Vougeot
The nose is deep and bloody yet glossy too. The palate is wide and interesting, showing tasty fruit and a growing tannin that’s not much more astringent than that of the 1999s. Surprisingly nice!
Again, a super depth of dark, almost bloody notes, yet freshness too. Softly textured yet completely focused concentration, indeed a super extra dimension and concentration in the mid-palate. Super wine!
Lovely, lovely aromatic of super herbs, leaves – textured and super-complex. Full and round with a sweetness of fruit and brilliant complexity too. That’s the word; Brilliant! Wine of the tasting.