“Even as we move out of a comparatively difficult period in terms of sales, Burgundy still has major assets as regards its reputation and power of attraction. Wine lovers place great confidence in the Burgundy “brand”, which conveys strong values of authenticity, a centuries-old historical legacy, quality and typical features. Moreover, Burgundy wine professionals have succeeded in emphasising the value of wines produced using historic know-how – an asset which was formerly neglected. This is the case for Crémant de Bourgogne, which has been remarkably successful over the past few years. Finally, Burgundy has also reorganised its Bureau. Various key departments have been set up that are fully operational and swift to act, thus providing Burgundy with an effective communications relay to make its voice heard, undertake collective projects and anticipate future changes, in an atmosphere of mutual confidence.”
So runs the commentary of the BIVB to the record 925,000 hectolitres (123 million bottles, +1%) of sales during the 2006/07 period i.e. largely coinciding with the sales of the 2005 vintage. The emphasis of the points above is not badly made, but it makes too much of a leap of faith by additionally saying ‘the hard times of the past are over’ (my paraphrasing), by ignoring a potential ‘bubble’ for buyers of the 05’s. Recent hype brought many new buyers to the region simply because of its success and their wish to own (I’m not sure about drinking) those 99pt bottles – where will they be for the 2006 or harder still the 2007 vintages? – grape costs for both those vintages will be higher than for 2005. Let us see this time next year, and harder still in 2009…
I also note with interest a new addition to wine-related online journals. Berry Bros & Rudd are pretty-much pioneers of web-based wine commerce and usually do everything to high standard, more importantly with commitment – let’s see how they develop…
This will be the last ‘active’ note related to the 2007 Burgundy grape harvest, as by Monday the vendanges will be overwhelmingly over. A few additional summaries from growers will appear as they become available.
The initially diffuse nose takes about 15 minutes for a more focused, higher-toned impression, still with a trace of reduction. About 90 minutes were needed for an additional, darker cherry depth and a hint of toffee – the longer you wait the better, but after 2 hours I’d finished. The texture is excellent, super smooth. The grain of the tannin comes very late, just after the acidity bursts through the mid-palate. The fruit is nicely expressive with faint torrefaction providing a nod to the wood treatment. Not perfectly balanced today as the acid needs to integrate a little more in the mid-palate, but I think this will be lovely. Wait 5 years for this very sophisticated, medium-bodied wine.