After three 2005’s tinged with a measure of disappointment, normal service is resumed.
2005 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux-Monts
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Initially a nose of deep, soft and sweet medium-toast oak and a little peppery dark fruit, time bestows more caramel and red fruit. Mouthfilling and concentrated yet remaining athletic rather than fat, the tannins are buried beneath the fruit. The mid-palate is expanded in the mouth by lush acidity. Finally it’s a very low-key, but long finish. Here is a 2005 that is not yet guarding its wares. An out-and-out bargain at the en-primeur purchase price of 43 Swiss francs per, that’s 26 Euros. Who says there is no value in Burgundy?
Rebuy – Yes

• How the Robert Parker Wine Dogs rating system works: Buddy by RMP – excellent!
• But what about global warming?

2005 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a forward mix of red and black cherry plus a rather mineral note. The longer it stays in the glass, it becomes redder and finer but with much less volume. The palate is mainly about balance – reasonable concentration and a sneaky extra cherry dimension that goes into the palate too.
It’s quite lithe, not too muscular and again a little mineral. Today it’s a classy if slightly anonymous bottle – a very good bottle for sure, but one that I hope will become even better. Given it’s lowly en-primeur purchase price of 29 Swiss francs it remains an easy and bargain rebuy, if you can find some for that…
Rebuy – Yes

Worth reading:

• I always ‘hankered’ over a trip to NZ…

More sophisticated than this wine but less ‘upfront’. Today I have a slight preference for the initial joie de vivre of the previously tasted wine – it will be interesting to compare them over time.
2005 Gaston et Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
A deep cherry-red core. The nose is understated but deep – it remains so even after the last hints of dark oak have receded. This 2005 is one of the rarer wines from the vintage with an edge of black fruit in the mix – the last drops in the glass are, however, pure red. Smooth and soft – almost sweetly cordial like – it will keep this aspect for about another 2 years before becoming more ‘classically’ fresh. But balanced freshness is already evident, and the tannin is very much hidden in the background. There’s plenty of material here, and most impressive is the value – this was about 19 Swiss francs, i.e regional bourgogne territory. Even in 2005 you will be hard pressed to find such a sophisticated bourgogne.
Rebuy – Yes

New tidbits worth a visit:

• Simple answers to complex wine?
• Is Beaujolais the prettiest?

The second test from my delivery of en-primeur purchased 2005’s. Given the Indian Summer it had to be another white – it was too cold to drink much white this summer. Relative to other ‘Dents de Chiens’ this bottling is usually ‘only’ almost good to good, but wins for its bargain price, even in an appellation which is anyway good value – at 23 Swiss francs it’s cheaper than some bourgognes.
2005 François et Denis Clair, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents de Chien
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose needs a little while to widen, perhaps a little white blossom. The palate is intense and soft, sweetly ripe. The acidity seems quite understated – but there’s much more density to this wine than in most vintages, it even has some focus. For the price, very impressive.
Rebuy – Yes

Other tidbits worth a quick visit:

• Alsace and Burgundy travels
• Exploring Burgundy: Bourgogne Aligoté
• Scientific proof that your nose lies
• The 2007 Vintage, hot off the press a lovely site, despite being pink!
• ‘Indigenous’ Clone 4 Chardonnay