Tasted in Volnay on a sunny 25 April 2024, with Thierry Glantenay.
Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
3 rue Vaut
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 20
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Ach! I broke my first glass in 2 years on the metal edge of my laptop’s screen – shards of glass on Thierry’s cuverie floor – sorry Thierry !!
Thierry on 2022:
“I finished bottling the 2022s just this week. We have a hint more volume in 2022 versus the 2023s as the 2023s shrivelled a little in the heat close to the harvest. But I really adore the 2022s – quantity and quality – it’s one of the vintages that I’m most satisfied with since I took over in 2005…”
The wines…
Thierry is rightfully proud of this year’s wines. He regularly crafts beautiful wines – but in this vintage, there is no shortage of great ones too !!
Labelled as such since 2019.
Airy and peefumed that’s a nice start. Supple, and here is really good concentration – melting delicious flavour over the palate – that’s a beauty – simply excellent wine, indeed textbook Bourgogne – persistent too – “Yes I make this exactly as my premier crus – maybe from 48 hl/ha in this vintage!“
2022 Volnay
5 parcels assembled – two (25%) are 1er cru – Lurets and Ormaux.
A little more aromatic focus and precision – fine perfume. Really broad, velour textured flavour but hardly any dryness – more depth and flavour intensity. Great shape and a very, very good representation of Volnay – with just a modest generosity. Super – and delicious – finishing width.
2022 Volnay 1er Brouillards
Not many make this 1er Cru as the Glantenays have the largest portion of this vineyard. ‘Brouillards doesn’t always have the most complexity but it’s a concentrated masculine wine. But usually classed as an entry-wine for 1ers.’ A little more than 1 ha owned here, and old vines too.
Fine, more structural fruit and high tones. Direct, architectural – it’s next to Pommard, of course – beautiful velour texture and no tannic dryness. Fresh, beautifully juicy, delicious finishing flavour – Love it! I’ve seen many fine Brouillards from 2022…
2022 Volnay 1er Santenots
Santenots du Bas, under the Clos des Santenots of Prieur. In the context of the domaine’s other vines, ‘only’ about 35-40-year-old vines here.
Wider, with a more perfumed depth of aroma. Also properly structured – direct but with a cushioned depth to all these flavours. Finishing more airy but also beautifully – for keeping a little while – if you can!!
1902 vines in the depression near the Clos des Mouches of Beaune
Really elegantly perfumed aromas. A mouth-filling ball of delicious energy – virtually no grain to this tannin – juicy, fluid – just a gorgeous wine. Bravo!! Very elegant Pommard but also with very little resemblance to its big neighbour in Beaune.
These vines are next to the Clos des 60 Ouvrées, but here there are only 4 ouvrées!
So fine – a width of aroma – slightly cushioned, deeper perfumed but still with the hallmark of precision. In the mouth too – such purity and precision – but also with an enviable architecture. Another wine that I love and, if I could, I’d give it five years in the cellar as a starting point – only because I should – it’s delicious !! A finish that just keeps returning – wow!
2022 Pommard 1er Rugiens
86 year-old vines
Wow that’s complex! The nose is more airy and certainly less dense than the Caillerets but what a nose! Fuid, quite a direct wine but also of ultra-sophisticated texture. That’s texturally beautiful, slowly melting over the palate – less demonstrative than many today but what class – yes!
One parcel near Lafon and the Château Meursault, right in the middle of the appellation. 0.5 ha, a mix of old vines and 20-years-old. Two-thirds the latter. ‘Always the strongest, the most solar, the most masculine of the domaine’s wines, hence, last.’
You sense the depth of aroma but it’s the airy perfume that dominates today. Hmm, this is a rather classy CdC – cool fruit of good fresh fluidity but clearly supported by lots of fruit. Not a sunny over-concentrated CdC – I think it great!
Le white:
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
Higher vines in three parts, neighbouring Pernot about 50 metres from Lalou, roughly 70-year-old vines. ‘I like to have ripeness and a little generosity but this is a vintage that has a fine acidity too.’
This opens in the glass becoming wider and wider – complex too with menthol and anise. In the mouth the wine certainly has structure but it melts over the palate – a wine that I wouldn’t hesitate waiting 2-3 years before opening (natural cork here) but the melting flavour is complex and retains plenty of tension – fine finishing texture too. Today very good, but potentially a super wine.