Tasted in Moulin à Vent with “Michel Rovere & Nadine Gublin, 02 April 2024.
Domaine Labruyère
310 Des Thorins
71570 Romanèche-Thorins
Tel: +33 3 85 20 38 18
www.domaine-labruyere.com
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Nadine on 2023 but mainly on 2022:
“I’m happy with 2023 it was warm but, fortunately, we had no hail.
As for 2022, we will make our bottlings in a few weeks – the end of April. We yielded about 35 hl/ha on average – 24 August was the starting-point for our harvest, finishing the morning of the 2nd September. All was destemmed for some cuvées, part destemmed for others. The wines were racked together after the 2023 harvest – in October – into cement after elevage mainly in 600-litre barrels. We didn’t have the effect of concentrating the juice before harvest liker we had in 2020 – the maturity came in more classic style….”
The wines…
This producer is on an extraordinary run of great vintages – bravo again with their 2022s !!
2022 Moulin à Vent Coeur de Terroirs Vieilles-Vignes
This label since 2012, a blend of parcels of 8-10 ha depending on the vintage. 14-14.2°
Good scale and depth to this nose – it’s a fine silky invitation – perfumed too – lovely. Mouth-filling juicy wine but there’s direction and concentration – growing in intensity behind – the finish vibrating with energy. Keep it a couple of years before attacking but here is very, very impressive finishing length
1.7 hectares worth, of south-east facing granitic plot with clay. Single parcel. 35% whole-cluster this vintage after harvesting 29th August. 14° this racked together in January.
More airy width of perfumed aroma. Extra fluidity and energy here – that’s a beauty. Also intense with some graphite depth to the flavours – that’s clearly going to be a great one. So wide and persistent in the finish too – already more delicious than the Coeur des Terroirs…
Share this clos with Jadot – on granite rose and sand direct south-facing, taking the name of the parcel like the last wine. 1.75 hectares worth. 70-75 years-old vines. 26-27 August harvesting, 600-litre and a few smaller barrels – 13.5° – all destemmed.
A more cushioned nose but less expressive today than the previous. Some of the fluidity of the last wine. A wine that’s also less expressive in the first flavours then bursts with middle and finishing width – again a little graphite extra in these finishing flavours. That’s a super wine and I think not showing all its potential today – I think it will be excellent, potentially also great if it comes more out of its shell…
A monopole. O.92 ha, 70-year-old vines (the rest were all 50), sometimes worked with a horse. From the top of the parcel on what is basically decomposed rock – there’s no real soil. The vines sit below the Moulin. Harvested 28 August, all destemmed with 14° – mainly 228-litre barrel elevage, racked in January.
Not a large nose but a beautifully perfumed one. Yes – beautiful in the mouth too – so elegant but not lacking width or concentration – a perfect fluidity and texture. The finish is vibrant and long – clearly a great one – bravo!