Tasted in Chassagne-Montrachet, with Sabine Mollard, 23 April 2024.
Domaine Marc Morey Fils
3 Rue Charles Paquelin
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 30 11
www.domaine-marc-morey.fr
More reports with Domaine Marc Morey
Sabine on 2023:
“I’m happy with the 2023s for now; the degrees are a little higher than in 2022 and the wines are now slowly rounding out – there was more volume too!”
Sabine on 2022:
“All the wines are bottled now. The first were done in August and the 1ers in February this year. We had a really big ‘sortie’ of grapes in the Springtime – so the local growers asked to be allowed to make extra volume – but in the end, the heat of the vintage meant that we didn’t have a lot of juice in the grapes. The harvest was also very early and I worried about flat grapes without enough acidity but in the end, we have good freshness in the wines – and there’s complexity too!”
I got an early look at Sabine’s 2022s last July but here was a chance to look at the finished wines…
The wine…
On the showing of today, I’d happily drink any of these wines – the whites generally would benefit from a decanter – the reds were singing though!!
All bottled and all sealed with natural cork:
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Some négoce from Hautes Côtes, bought as grapes, to go with domaine vines in Chassagne.
Large-scale, forward, ripe and inviting aromas. Mouth-filling, super texture – there is concentration here – it’s a rather generous but delicious wine…
2022 St.Aubin 1er Les Charmois
More breadth of aroma – extra freshness too – a lovely invitation. More direct flavours and a different style of flavour intensity – less generous and slowly more directly intense. The finish is an impressive one – extra intensity and persistence – this will keep your energy levels high !!
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet
Three parcels; Lombards, Pierre and Blanchots and a little declassified 1er from Virondots.
Volume, some yeasty accents but becoming more perfumed. Certainly the most incisive but clean and streamlined wine so far – really juicy finishing like biting into fresh fruit – that’s a lovely wine with a slowly fading finish with an accent of creamy barrel…
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
Less impact but with a beautifully airy floral perfume. Hmm, now that’s classy – open, fluid, melting, perfumed flavour – that’s a really super wine with an undertow of minerality and almost chalky finishing texture. Simply excellent wine.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Vergers
Here’s a little more citrus intensity – very nice. This wine is a little more supple but the extra concentration is very well balanced – the finish is deep and stony today. I’d actually carafe this – today I prefer the finish of the Chenevottes but the aromatic of this…
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
Lots of aroma here – this is perfumed and pretty. Supple concentration, and extra middle and finishing intensity – a beautiful wine – really excellent…
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er En Virondot
Not the largest nose but it airy, precise and perfumed. Across the palate this holds mouth-filling centre-stage and is very mouth-watering too. Buttery-creamy oak in the middle flavours and even a small aniseed in this finishing flavour – I’d wait a couple of years for it but it’s usually my favourite wine here – and has a good chance of being so again !!
2020 Puligny-Montrechet 1er Pucelles
Vines close to those of Batard
There’s both extra width and depth of aroma here. A little gas, so the energy seems more fizzy – but what a bubbling and complete finish – holding with impressive persistence and intensity. This is really a baby – I tend to be happy drinking my whites young but I’d wait a couple of years for this – in fact most of the wines – or carafe today – but a super range.
Le Reds:
From Benoites but also some bought grapes – they have vines in Corvées too but it’s only the second year in 22 for these young vines so no crop yet.
A bright, very direct cherry nose. Hmm, scale, nice texture and a wine whose flavours melt over the palate – that’s absolutely delicious and modestly structured – I could enjoy that already today – it’s missing nothing – a top villages.
A deeper colour. A nose of both extra concentration and depth – almost texture – certainly more complex – effectively more of everything. But not a fat wine – here is energy to balance the concentration, a tannin of velour – not drying. The finish more graphite minerality and really top flavour. Bravo again !!