Tasted in Quincié with Florent Georger, 04 April 2024.
Maison Mommessin
403 route de Saint-Vincent,
69430 Quincié-en-Beaujolais
Tel: +33 4 74 69 09 30
www.mommessin.com
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It’s the first time that I tasted at Mommessin’s site in Quincié – the site here is not just Boisset’s outpost in Beaujolais, it’s where they bottle wines from all around France – there are 10s of millions of bottles emanating from this site every year.
Florent on 2022 and the market for Beaujolais wines in general:
“The bottles we will taste are all already commercial wines, the Grand Mises range. There’s also a Moulin à Vent, currently the 2021 vintage and a Juliénas too – otherwise this is the range. The price increases of the last 3 years have helped the vignerons but have also dampened, a little, the global appetite for Beaujolais – so most domaines have a little stock right now – most domaines are not ‘serene’ but also not particularly worried at this time – particularly as the current market dovetails with wines that have very good quality.”
The wines…
Good, tasty, wines – other times I’ve tasted this range I’ve been even more enthusiastic though…
2022 Mommessin, Grands Mises Beaujolais-Villages
A large volume wine with three different bottlings, vines in Lantigné, St.Etienne des Ouilières and Le Perreon are the major sectors for this… All by selections of cuvées on bulk. This from the first bottling in April 2023:
Broad open, quite silky – red fruit of some depth but perhaps needs a bit more air to make it more exciting. In the mouth, here is a blend of roundness but also some structure too, darker fruit, spiced, and with a modest lick of tannin too. Slowly fading flavour through plenty of bitters. I’d wait a year for this but it should be good.
2022 Mommessin Grands Mises, St.Amour
Use a grill but it’s not a long maceration.
Directly more colour. Also not fully open but here is some silky depth of dark red fruit. Hmm, here is a lovely energy, accented with an attractive sucrosity of dark fruit. This finish recalls that of the BJV with plenty of finishing bitters but this is already much more attractive and borderline drinkable today – wait another year before attacking. The finish is of modest intensity but still very good length. I like it !!
2022 Mommessin Grands Mises Côte de Brouilly
There’s a bit of granite here but it’s mainly blue-stone and much on the more north-facing side of the hill.
This nose starts tight in the top notes but has an impressive width that supports – the impression of fine textural depth too – lovely. Supple, concentrated wine, the depth of flavour has a fine cushion – there’s structure but this is another that’s already very accessible and far from hard – it will improve for sure but there’s no reason not to enjoy this already today – that’s a super wine !!
The previous wines have no wood in the elevage but for 2023 they are experimenting with a small amount of wood for the blend – the amounts not yet definitive for their ‘Grands Mises’ range:
2022 Mommessin Grands Mises, Morgon Grand Cras
This is a wine that has much more open, part airy top notes. Round in the mouth, a modest tannin framing the flavours. Extra level of depth in these finishing flavours, accented with a modest sucrosity. That’s a super wine again. A wine that will grow more stature over the next 2-23 years but is already quite accessible if not fully open.
2022 Mommessin Grands Mises, Morgon Côte de Py
This destemmed – the previous was whole-cluster.
A more vertical and floral perfumed nose. Not starting as large scale as the Grand Cras but more obviously structured. This is much more vibrantly flavoured in the finish with a dark-fruited sucrosity again. The finish lasts in a more overt style too – certainly wait 2-3 years for this wine – it could be excellent!
2013(!) Morgon Côte de Puy
This was the first vintage of the Grands Mises label here.
There’s a little orange at the rim but the core of this wine is still nicely red. That’s complex; forest floor and faintly of marsala but also becoming cleaner and more floral in the glass. This is direct, cool and has good driving energy – driving you towards the finish. There’s still a little barrel showing but this is showing fresher and younger than the nose suggests – the texture is a lovely finishing velour. It’s not a concentrated wine but it’s a very interesting one – tasty too!!
Les Blancs:
2022 Mommessin Grands Mises, Beaujolais Villages Blanc
From the south of Beaujolais – Alix, Theizy and Lachassagne – so Pierres Dorées
A nicely fresh aromatic, suggesting something more mineral at the base. In the mouth I like it !! There’s fresh, almost crispy chardonnay fruit of good precision – some generosity, of course, as we are in Beaujolais but only modestly so and finishing with a chalky lick of tannin too. I think this more than excellent wine for the label – well done