Tasted with Philippe Pacalet in Beaune, 26 September 2022.
SAS Philippe Pacalet
12 rue de Chaumergy
21200 Beaune
Tel: +33 3 80 25 91 00
www.philippe-pacalet.com
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Philippe on 2023 & 2022:
“We had to do a lot of triage 2023 – and we do it at the vine. We harvested at about the same time as in 2022 and we triaged more than 20% of the crop – the best part all directly placed into the tanks. Harvesting was two weeks earlier in 2022 – which was a sunny vintage with wines that be considered as somewhere between the styles of 2018 and 2019. Today we have 100 hours more of sun per year vs the 1980s… The 2022s have been bottled since Easter… We had higher degrees in 2022 than in 2023… As for prices, I’m a wine producer, not a speculator – I rarely increase my prices…”
The wines…
Philippe has really nailed the concentration, balanced by the fluidity, in his wines this year. As usual, they were a pleasure to taste. A number of them are clearly worth a special search to obtain.
2022 Moulin à Vent
22 hl/ha so 14°. From Roche, Petit Roche and Meurises – with a little manganese in the soils. Vines bought in 2006 – we used to say that the vines were price of a nice house – now it’s an Airbus !!
A small nose today but with a nice clarity of aroma. Round, with depth to this concentration, freshness and a small grain of tannin but there’s nice texture here – a graphite finish and a mouthful of tasty flavour.
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin
The same assembly as usual – 5 parcels – a little Evocelles, and there’s Creots near the cemetery and there’s Champerriers and Platières too.
Dark deep, attractive but compact in the top notes to start. Extra fluidity – open, mobile, and deliciously juicy. This a really delicious wine.
A blend of Trois Foulots, Rugiens, Combes and Vaumuriens – all vines on the hill so not too much clay here.
More open high tones – that’s very attractive. Wide, supple – concentrated wine but like the Gevrey that juicy core of fruit – gorgeously finishing – that’s a great villages.
2022 Vosne-Romanée
From En Brulées and En Barreaux – vines that look at each other – ‘en Barraux 20 years ago, nobody neeed it as it was on the north face!’
Wider aromas – the cliché spice of Vosne here too – not a large-scale aromatic but it’s a very encouraging one. Silky, fluid – ooh that’s a really super wine. A beautiful baby – more than excellent villages…
Mainly grand but 15% Petit Epenots, this in the foothills next to the Clos
Athletic muscle here both in the aromas and flavours – fluid, beautifully textured again – just so gorgeously mouth-watering. I find it a great wine!
2022 Pommard Les Rugiens
The villages part – on high – vines from 1905…
An airy width of aroma – not as open as the previous wines. This is juicily delicious and with growing intensity in the finish – and what depth to this finishing flavour – faintly tannic and more than impressively long – that’s a wonderful wine…
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Sentiers
Red soil just under Bonnes-Mares.
This has a faint spice to the nose – becoming softer and more floral with air. Direct, with a freshness and texture of velour. More higher tones are visible in this flavour – and what flavour – more vibrant and high-toned perfume in this finish. I love it!
2022 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Argillas
Very limestone soil here next to Damodes – the opposite of the Chambolle
A nose that’s a little chalky – high-toned florals here. Large in the mouth, there’s structure and almost unbridled energy here – the texture is chalky and mildly dry but there’s no overt grain – give it 2-3 years in a good cellar and you will be rewarded by its excellent… A finishing surprise with an extra burst that’s more fruity than chalky-
Over 80 years old vines. ‘I bought in 2016 and was then frosted – that’s nature !’
Hmm – that’s perfumed – the first wine where I say there are whole-clusters as this has a very aromatic rose. I like the cool shape of this structure but it’s not confining, it just brings definition. This is just such an elegant and delicious thing – I would drink it with joy already – it will also be great when I am gone.
2022 Echézeaux
2 parcels Rougeot and Clos st denis
A more airy red nose, faintly of the whole clusters – there’s impressive depth here. In the mouth a different scale – mouth-filling but with the energy to balance the concentration. Delicious and complex but less focused than many that went before – at least today.
Les Whites:
2022 Monthelie 1er Clos Gauthey
‘It’s got a bit of a Meursault style – it looks towards Meursault but with a bit more minerals.’
A nice width of aroma – faintly round, faintly spiced – yes there’s an accent of Meursault. Hmm, that’s beautifully structured, and minerally juicy with a modest generosity – I love it !!
The vines after Genevrières on the Village side.
A little more definition to this width of yellow fruit – more than a mere accent of Meursault here too. Mineral, cool but at the same time with ripeness of fruit. A small creamy accent of the barrel but this is a great villages – I’d keep it 2 years for the cream to fade.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet
High up in Trezin
Here’s less width but a fine concentration of aroma and minerality that goes deep. But here is width in the mouth too – open, airy flavour but with definition and a slowly juicy length of finishing flavour. I love this finishing intensity too – long, long, and zesty finishing which brings a little finishing texture too – Delicious!