Entries from 2023

GJPV – and the 2023 winners are…

By billn on November 30, 2023 #annual laurels#degustation

Click on the image above for the press release from the winners of the 35th edition of the ‘Young Talents’ competition – chosen and announced during the weekend of the Beaune Hospices wine auction.

The prizes were awarded at the Palais des Congrès in Beaune, the GJPV organization awarded their seven regional trophies to the following young winemakers:

  • Matthieu Dangin, Domaine Bruno DANGIN for the Grand Auxerrois
  • Pierrick Laroche, Domaine DES HATES for Chablis
  • Lyse Chezeaux, Domaine Jérôme CHEZEAUX for the Côte de Nuits
  • Guillaume Nudant, Domaine NUDANT for the Côte de Beaune
  • Rémi Dury, Domaine Jacques DURY for the Côte Chalonnaise
  • Maxime Dutron, Château VITALLIS for the Mâconnais
  • Elie Gauthier, Domaine Laurent GAUTHIER pour le Trophée Beaujolais

Tasting – Côte de Nuits Villages

By billn on November 29, 2023 #degustation#diary dates

Tasting Côte de Nuits VillagesThere’s an annual tasting of Côte de Nuits Villages which, I’m ashamed to say, I’ve never yet got to.

And that won’t change this year either as my last day tasting this year, will be the 8th of December – a shame!

But if YOU are in town, I urge you to go along – this is the third presentation by the producers 😉

It will be held on Thursday 14th December – from 2 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. – in the community hall of Comblanchien…

The 163rd Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction

By billn on November 20, 2023 #annual laurels#events

Hospices de Beaune - October 2023
Hotel Dieu, Beaune – October 2023

Yesterday saw the sale of the 163rd edition of the Hospices de Beaune wine auction – the oldest charity wine auction – which delivered a total of €25.1 million including all the auction fees.

As last year, the previously covid-hit editions of the sale were forgotten as an audience 700 people, including the bidders, packed into the sales room in Beaune. Last year there was interest from 30 different countries – this year a mere 24 – but the sale still endured for 7 hours as three auctioneers worked in shifts to get through the 770 lots.

Whilst the headline is ‘only’ for the second most important total achieved, we should note that there was a modest 32 fewer barrels sold in 2023 – a small surprise when you consider that the average domaine made more wine in 2023 than in 2022 – but the triage of the Hospices was far from modest in 2023 and the wines will only benefit from that. Still, the average price per barrel (see the table below) was down about 15% vs last year making it only the third highest total – though nearly 50% higher than in 2020. The result of two consecutive ‘almost full’ vintages? Let’s hope so. Whilst this is, of course, a charity auction, another 15% lower next year would be a good indication to the market as the Hospices has long been considered the bellwether of burgundy’s market pricing – though that connection has been tenuous for a while!

2023 Pièce des Présidents
The Pièce des Présidents (Presidents’ Barrel), sold for €350,000 (before commission) to the owner of Château de Couches whose château is known as “Margaret of Burgundy.” The contents of this year’s barrel was part of the Hospice’s Mazis-Chambertin, Cuvée Madeleine Collignon – donated to the Hospices in 1976 by Jean Collignon, which was subsequently named in memory of his mother. As noted in previous entries before the sale, the barrel was made from the wood of an oak tree which was also used to restore the spire of Notre Dame in Paris and the barrel itself was made by the Tonnellerie Cadus.

A few stats

The hammer total for the 163rd Hospices de Beaune wine sale was €23,279,800 including the Pièce des Présidents. The vintage 21 and 22 totals (Sotheby’s) also include the President’s barrel – the earlier years’ values (Christie’s) are stated without including the President’s barrel. All the figures are ‘net,’ so without the respective auctioneers’ commissions.

VintageSale Total € millionsPrice per barrelNumber of barrels
2005€3.79 million€4,803789
2009€4.99 million€6,250799
2015€11.3 million€18,880575
2016€8.4 million€13,833596
2017€13.5 million€16,657787
2018€13.95 million€16,850828
2019€12.28 million€21,823589
2020€12.76 million€21,677630
2021€11.68 million€33,223352
2022€29.79 million€35,974802
2023€23.28 million€30,233770*

*The 770 lots on offer comprised 753 barrels of red and white wines, 1 Presidents’ Barrel, and 16 barrels of spirits.

Jasper – the Hospices – Jeannie

By billn on November 18, 2023 #events

I heard a little news:

Jasper Morris MW to Step Down as Consultant for the Annual Hospices de Beaune Wine Sale and Jeannie Cho Lee MW to Pick Up the Mantle from 2024 Onwards…

I’m sure there will be more info ensuing… [Edit – the following:]

“Stepping into Jasper’s shoes is the award-winning author, television host, editor, wine critic, judge and educator, Jeannie Cho Lee MW. In her role, Jeannie will conduct tastings for the Hospices de Beaune wines, join Ludivine during the harvest, and participate in tastings and dinners around the world.

“Jeannie’s traditional Korean upbringing meant venturing into the wine industry was not an option she considered whilst a university student, but she found herself venturing into the wine industry, first as a writer, then an author and later as a wine critic, editor, publisher and finally in 2008, becoming the first Asian Master of Wine. She holds a Master’s degree from Harvard University in Public Policy as well as a doctor of philosophy (Ph.D.) degree in marketing and branding from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, where she is currently a Professor of Wine at the School of Hotel and Tourism Management, a position she has occupied for more than 10 years. Since 2009, Jeannie has been a wine consultant to Singapore Airlines.

“Jeannie started to give ratings to wine in 1992 when she began writing her wine diaries and she has since gone on to publish three award-winning books – Asian Palate, Mastering Wine, and The 100 Burgundy, which won the 2020 Gourmand Award for Best Wine Book in the World for French wines. Recognised for her contributions to the food and wine industry, she was honoured as a Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur (a Knight in the National Order of the Legion of Honour) by French President Emmanuel Macron in 2021.”
Sotheby’s

Tastevinage: The 2023 Majors !!

By billn on November 17, 2023 #annual laurels#degustation

For a few years now the Tastevinage have made a ‘selection’ of the best wines selected from the wines presented for tasting in the year – obviously here from the 2023 tasting season – and this selection, again chosen blind – is the result of 785 wines presented during the year.

At this presentation on Thursday evening I didn’t taste blind but I found a great selection – bar one – and I’ve no idea how that wine made it through!!

The wines for you, first reds:

2021 Bertagna, Vougeot 1er Clos de la Perriere
Smoky, silky, strawberry nose. Silky, sinuous delicious wine – yes! What great texture here. Bravo.

2021 Moillard, Marsannay
A stronger width of red fruit, this nose suggesting a little structure. Silky, beautiful texture again, darker fruited than the Vougeot. Ultra-classy wine.

2020 Patriarche, Auxey-Duresses 1er Les Grands Champs
Lots of colour. Dark and concentrated but sleek fruit. Again, so silky – the common theme in this selection is clear!

2021 Moillard, Mercurey
Powdery style to this dark red fruit. So silky, right at the end showing a hint more tannin – but zltra-sophisticated villages wine

2020 Simmonet-Febvre, Irancy Paradis
Versus all the previous wines, there’s energy in this aroma but quite some herbed, gentian complexity too – far from my favourite. Hmm here is pyrazine – beautiful texture again, and super balance – but for me, flawed…

2020 Patriarche, Monthelie 1er Les Barbières
Power, darker red fruit – a good nose. Mouth-filling, plenty of sweeping flavour – clean structure – no astringency to the structure though with some attractive bitters still present in the finish. That?s really top – bravo!

2020 Ponsard-Chevalier, Santenay Les Charmes
Almost a gooseberry accent to creamy red fruit – yes! Wide, ultra silky again the tannin slowly rising from to the surface – but still velvet. Hard to believe that this is just a villages Santenay – bravo!

2022 Albert Bichot Bourgogne Pinot Noir Origines
A pretty, airy nose of attractive, lite red fruit. Wow 60,000 bottles for this super-silky wine with, slowly, easily fading flavour – Very elegant wine and great for the label, no doubt.

2021 Manuel Olivier, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Cailles
Not a large nose but pure attractive red fruit – it’s an invitation. Mouth-filling, framed with micro-grain tannin. Delicious wine.

2019 Patriarche, Clos de Vougeot
It seems rarer and rarer to see grand crus in the Tastevinage tastings – maybe this didn’t have a lot of competition in its class?
Hmm – there’s a creamy oak in this fresh width – but only an appealing accent. Fluid, broad, the tannin rising making this a little more velour in texture but beautifully intense and only faintly drying. Just fluid, mouth-watering delicious wine but still with the required structure – maybe I expect a bit more depth for CV but this is clearly excellent.

And Les Whites:

2020 Château de Rully, Rully
Lots of concentrated, ripe citrus but still energetically inviting aromas. Silky, sweetness of ripe, almost exotic fruit. But what a broad and delicious flavour profile in the finish – worthy!

2020 Joseph Drouhin, St.Romain
Lots of extra freshness – airy and inviting. Hmm, just a mm of comfort to this delicious wine, slightly generous and finish fine and saline – properly wonderful with a little zesty finishing style.

Veuve Ambal, Cremant Brut
Small plum – mirabelle – nose but with direct and fresh backing. Ooh next level in the mouth – that’s completely delicious!!

2023 Volume!

By billn on November 11, 2023 #the market#vintage 2023

2023 Corton-Charlemagne
2023 Corton-Charlemagne

In Burgundy, 2023 production equalled the record reached in 2018, notably for white wine, while output was expected at a good level in Beaujolais despite some hail storms, it said.
Source: Reuters

There’s a new Burgundy Report…

By billn on November 10, 2023 #reports

Nascent Pommard 1er CruOnline now.

Yes, I’m catching up on my backlog of reports – something that’s really needed with about 75 visits now needing my attention – and then your reading 🙂

My focus on this one was still the 2021 vintage – but nearly half of the domaines wanted to show 2022s – as they had no more 2021s.

Shit happens when there’s been frost!

Enjoy!

Burgundy Report

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