Getting close to 4pm in Meursault today:
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Fire in the sky today…
Entries from 2025
Now that was a shame…
What a shame – a case shared with the late Marko de Morey – because this was completely corked…
Newer converts to Burgundy, or indeed Sylvain Pataille may, understandably, have a little confusion.
The Marsannay village appellation was created in 1987. The neighbouring village (to the south) of Couchey was included in the new Marsannay Villages appellation, To the north of Marsannay, only the vines in the south of the village of Chenôve were included. Le Chapitre was more northerly so kept a Bourgogne label – until that changed in 2019.
Sylvain has two parcels of vines in Chapitre, and to his credit, since the first of these that I tasted with him, he always maintained that it should be a Marsannay label, indeed, worthy of a Marsannay 1er cru label !
I hope that I’ve one more…
2013 Buisson-Charles, Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or
2013 Buisson-Charles, Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or
The domaine likes to think that this vintage has a similar style to 2024 so…
The colour now with a golden hue. The flavours have that cushion of maturity, delivering white chocolate, white flowers and waxy lanolin – still in the youth of that. Hmm – there’s richness to this wine with a cushion to the shape and a very silky texture. The finish almost surprises with a more linear, almost a tiny austerity – that’s superb today…
Rebuy – Yes
2017 A&P de Villaine, Santenay 1er Passetemps
2017 A&P de Villaine, Santenay 1er Passetemps
Hmm – approachable, slightly cushioned, rounded aromas of red fruit – a hint of development but hardly. Large in the mouth – hmm, that’s got really really impressive volume – framed with a subtle tannin, more velvet than velour. Very slowly fading… Drinking beautifully from the very start…
Rebuy – Yes
Chandon de Briailles 2009 Volnay 1er Caillerets
For a short time, this was a contract wine at CdB – so not a domaine wine.
2009 Chandon de Briailles, Volnay 1er Les Caillerets
My first 2009 at home for a while. 2009 was a vintage that I bought, but more with hope in mind. The wines were a little warm and ripe vs my preferences – 2010 was next level, for example in clarity and energy – but as said, I had hope. How well founded was that?
Ooh – I clearly loved this wine 15 years ago, but today it s perfume is rather round and lacking aromatic precision vs what I expect from Caillerets. In the mouth it’s wine of impressive scale and not bad clarity/purity – but, for sure, this is a very ripe presentation of the fruit. The structure is very discrete and the flavours pack a punch. I’m finding the wine has a little impression of higher alcohol but the label disagrees. Give it 5 hours from opening and the glass is much more appealing – the flavours. The aromas still seem a little heavy-handed and generous. It took me 5 hours to want that second glass. Maybe another 10 years?
Rebuy – today No
37th GJPV Young Talents Trophy, Edition 2025
Image, courtesy the GJPV…
The Young Wine and Vine Professionals Group has awarded/rewarded its 2025 Young Talents!
On Friday evening, November 14th, during the Young Talents Dinner, the association presented 7 trophies to young winemakers, in this case categorised as ‘Aged under 40 or established for less than 5 years.‘ I wonder if I could sneak into the latter category !!
As each year, there was a pre-tasting by a ‘jury of 60 wine professionals,’ before a final ‘taste-off,’ this year by:
Daniela Paris, Sommelier, Italian importer, writer
Benoit Laly, Cave Laly in Autun, silver medalist for Best Wine Merchant in France
Each candidate submitted three different appellations from their estate from the 2023 vintage.
The seven 2025 winners were:
- Carole & Bastien Mathias, from Domaine Alain Mathias in Epineuil: Grand Auxerrois Trophy
- Eléonore Moreau, from Domaine des Pérégrins in Poilly/Serein: Chablis Trophy
- Edouard Confuron, from Domaine Edouard Confuron in Vosne-Romanée: Côte de Nuits Trophy
- Chloé Baillard Chevalier, from Domaine Chevalier & Filles in Ladoix-Serrigny: Côte de Beaune Trophy
- Christophe Grandmougin, from Domaine Saint Jacques in Rully: Côte Chalonnaise Trophy
- Jean-Jacques Feral, from Domaine Montbarbon in Viré: Mâconnais Trophy
- Élodie Rousselot, From Château Bellevue in Villié-Morgon: Beaujolais Trophy
Founded in 1959, the GJPV is an association bringing together young winemakers, with the aim of ‘Creating professional exchanges and promoting the best talents for today and tomorrow.’
The 165th Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction
Sale date: 16 November 2025. The following is my summary of the various press releases – as I chose to avoid the crowds !!
On Sunday, 16 November 2025, once again under the hammer of Sotheby’s, the Hospices de Beaune charity wine auction achieved the ‘third highest total in its history.’ No mean feat for a modest volume vintage, the average price per barrel continuing it’s steady rise with a 4.6% increase. The final hammer total was €18.75 million, an aggregate (with commissions) of €20.2 million. For this event, at least, the market for fine Burgundy remains vibrant.
A New Grand Cru and Multiple New Records
Following the Hospice’s full conversion to organic certification in 2024, this year’s sale was marked by the introduction of a 52nd cuvée. Thanks to a donation from the Faiveley family, the auction offered a Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cuvée François Faiveley. The two barrels of this new addition sold for €165,000 and €170,000, respectively.
The white wines provided further fireworks. Two barrels of Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Cuvée Dames de Flandres, sold for €400,000 each, establishing a record price for a barrel of this Grand Cru for the second consecutive year.
Albert Bichot: The Perennial Leading Buyer at the Auction
Continuing a tradition of purchases dating back to 1876, Maison Albert Bichot was once again the auction’s leading buyer. The Beaune-based négociant acquired 85.5 lots for a total of €4,516,500. This represented 16% of the total volume and 25% of the total value of the sale, including 22 Grand Cru barrels. Notably, Bichot secured one of the record-breaking barrels of Bâtard-Montrachet. Albéric Bichot praised the quality of the vintage, noting: “The 2025 vintage wines stand out for their balance and energy. They perfectly reflect the rigour and passion applied in the vineyards and cellar alike.”
Hospices Perspective
Guillaume Koch, Director of the Hospices Civils de Beaune, expressed his satisfaction with the result: “We are delighted to have just achieved the third-largest sale in our history. Once again, the white wines held some wonderful surprises.”
Proceeds from the auction (excluding the Presidents’ Barrel) will fund major investment initiatives, including the construction of a new hospital building in Beaune and the rebuilding of the hospital in Seurre.
Summary of Key Facts and Figures, 2025
- Aggregate Total: €20,223,043
- Hammer Total: €18,754,670
- The Presidents’ Barrel: Sold for €400,000 (Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens & a 1er Cru record)
- Average price per barrel: €33,930 (up 4.6% on 2024)
- Average price (Reds): €27,480
- Average price (Whites): €58,580
- Average price (Grand Crus): €86,290
- Average price (Premier Crus): €23,180
- Total Number of Barrels Auctioned: 428 red, 111 white (including 2 half-barrels), 11 eaux-de-vie
- Records:
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (€400,000);
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (€155,000);
Beaune Blanc Premier Cru Clos des Mouches (€60,000)
friday’s extra taste…
2014 JF Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
What an open nose, slightly jammy but with a swathe of floral interest too. Filling the mouth, very fluid, melting; currently in a mineral phase, but how complex it is, just a couple of mm of textural cushioning and a tiny austerity that I could easily overcome already. I’m guessing that this was better 5 years but it will be even better again in 5 more – what an excellent, delicious wine, one with a simply panoramic, floral-infused finish. Yes !!
Rebuy – Yes
today’s tasting addendum…
2014 Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feuselottes
A meaty, fresh and still perfumed nose, in fact a perfume that grows in the glass. Wide, energetic, a density that compares to the 2024s that we are tasting, but with just a small suggestion of extra angles to the shape. A more herbed accent to the finkshing flavours – but delicious flavours. A treat…
Rebuy – Yes
2014 Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Ruchottes-Chambertin
A finer grain to this complexity of aroma. Much more direct with a wiry, lithe frame and an intensity of fruit in the middle, which is young but completely accessible. Extra broad finishing – such a large finish, with a suggestion of salinity that adds to the herbed complexity. More than a treat – a baby great wine !!
Rebuy – Yes