offer of the day – 2018 l’Arlot

By billn on March 23, 2020 #the market

In my inbox – I offer the comparison with the previous prices (in brackets) of the 2017s, 2016s, and 2015…

Domaine de l’Arlot

Nuits-Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux 1er Cru 2018 75cl 69.50 (59.00, — 59.00)* Swiss Francs
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Hors Ligne’ 2018 75cl — (79.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de l’Arlot 1er Cru 2018 75cl 88.00 (85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2018 75cl 88.00 (85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2018 150cl 181.00, (175.00, 175.00, —)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2018 75cl 129.00 (119.00, 119.00, 109.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2018 150cl 263.00 (—)
Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru 2018 75cl — (—, 486.00, 445.00)

*Note that 8% sales tax is also due, but the delivery cost is included…

2018 Beaujolais – it’s where the value lies

By billn on March 23, 2020 #beaujolais#reports

Burgundy Report - 2018 BeaujolaisMost wine merchants are still making deliveries to self-isolators – so what are you going to drink at home?

If you’re looking at 2018s, then the value – and often the consistency of quality – is more often with Beaujolais than the Côte d’Or. So with that in mind:

Newly online is my February Report – 2018 Beaujolais.

62 domains, well over 400 new wines from an, often, great vintage. That’s now over 3,000 wines tasted from 260 domaines for the 2018 vintage reports of October 2019 to February 2020, and in each case with vintage commentary from their winemakers.

Now, who’s going to be the first to buy my mixed case recommendation? – That’ll keep you perky at home!

a few recent wines to isolate with…

By billn on March 21, 2020 #degustation

2017 François Carillon, St.Aubin 1er Pitangerets (Red)
Like many from the south of the Côte d’Or in 2017 – no more than medium colour. Aromatically, here’s a lovely core of sweet and attractive red fruit – swirl long enough and I even think we have little violet flowers in here too. I like the energy very much here, it’s also a wine with a satisfying but not austere structure. Mineral finishing. This is very satisfying wine – I like it a lot.
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Clos de la Poulettes, Côte de Nuits Villages Chardonnay
A bounding puppy of energy here. A wine with a certain attractive sucrosity to balance the energy – both aroma and flavour. It’s an endearing wine, with its forward pineapple-style flavour, though by the third glass(!), maybe I’m starting to tire of it a little. Still, a big and tasty mouthful of wine that delivers a fine quality for a good price.
Rebuy – Maybe

2002 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts
Of course, it’s a direct comparison with the 2002 Hudelot-Noellat Suchots from a few days ago. This wine is the less complex, easier-going sibling. The nose is inviting and reasonably complex – though far behind what you can find in the Suchots. In the mouth, however, this is a wine that’s much more readily attractive due to an extra sweetness of fruit. Clearly less complex but a tasty wine that’s more moreish than the Suchots at this stage – it’s completely ready. I remember Jacques Lardière telling me that Petits Monts was only a ‘second division’ Vosne 1er – maybe the fruit that he had access to? – but in this comparison, he’s got it right. But this is also the more drinkable of the two at this age. A small amount of wine left for day 2 was less interesting – so drink all on day 1!
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price!

2017 Céline et Frédéric Gueguen, Saint-Bris
I think that it must have been our apero of cheesy-biscuits, but here’s a wine that began in an anonymous way – little flavour or aroma from opening. After about 20 minutes it was either opening, or we were becoming more open to the wine. Modest sauvignon character with a little mint. Fresh with good energy. A tasty wine, though still a slight wine. Refreshing and interesting all the same – also good value wine too!
Rebuy – Maybe

hudelot-noellat’s 2002 vosne 1er les suchots

By billn on March 18, 2020 #degustation

Hudelot-Noellat Les Suchoty

2002 Hudelot-Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Here is a good depth of colour and – what a nose! Wide, it pulls you in, so complex; leaves, tobacco, smoke, fine fruit – age – no, maturity! Fine energy in the mouth, complex too – reflective of that great nose. After the vintages of 2015-2019 you’d be forgiven for thinking that this lacks a little sweetness – but it’s completely classic and ‘ready.’ A wine I enjoyed very, very much. Excellent stuff!
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price!

offer of the day – william fevre 2018

By billn on March 18, 2020 #the market

From my usual Swiss importer source. The prices of the 2017s, 2016s and 2015s from previous years are in brackets for you to compare (— means not offered). If you’ve read my 2018 Chablis report, you will know which ones of these I covet!

DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS 2018
CHABLIS Village 75cl 22.00 (22.00, 22.00, 19.00) Swiss Francs*
PREMIERS CRUS
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 75cl 48.00 (48.00, 45.00, 42.00)
CHABLIS Vaulorent 75cl — (54.00, —, —)
GRANDS CRUS
CHABLIS Preuses 75cl 78.00 (78.00, 75.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Preuses 150cl 161.00 (—)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 75cl 79.00 (79.50, 79.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 75cl 94.00 (89.00, 89.00, 75.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 150cl 193.00 (—)

Relatively a steady period for the prices here – unless you’re a Les Clos buyer – despite advantageous yields in 2018.
*The prices are ‘delivered’ but will attract another 8% Swiss purchase tax.

staying healthy – but now it also gets complicated…

By billn on March 16, 2020 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2020#warning - opinion!

Much is down to chance, but you can also try to be sensible.

Last week in Burgundy, the Grands Jours de Bourgogne was sensibly cancelled. 600-1,200 people per venue, pressing to get near to their favourite vigneron(ne)s, pouring, slurping, making the wine as intimate as possible with all the wet parts inside their mouths/palates – then probably worst of all, in an explosion of vapour, body-fluids and wine, spitting into the large communal spittoons. It’s not just for the peacock in them that many in the trade wear red trousers! So it was clearly the right decision.

Of course, in what should have been a bumper week for trade, Beaune was dead. Plenty of parking – and the restaurants less than one-third full – the hotels less full than that.

To the side of the Grands Jours are also many other gatherings of vigneron(ne)s and private tastings, many of which that hadn’t been cancelled. I took a view as to what was, more or less, sensible to attend – this is, after-all, my job – it’s the only one I have! The Wednesday gathering of les Tontons-Trinqueurs in Nuits St.Georges didn’t quite meet my threshold – approaching 300 visitors and nearly 40 vigneron(ne)s there were simply too many people – such a shame as it’s a great group of producers. I appreciate that my threshold may be more or less stringent than yours – but as a diabetic, this was my choice. Later that same day was the tasting of the Punition Collective – another worthy group of producers – 24 of them, but only 13 from greater-Burgundy. I arrived early, didn’t taste 2018s that I had already tasted in the last 3 months, and was out in about 90 minutes before there was a bigger crowd – over 150 said that they would come to taste – by the time that I left, there were about 50 tasters. Of course, there were people that would greet only with a bump of elbows, but many were still in full-kiss-mode!

The next day I’d a private appointment – no-problem – or perhaps not – we were three, and one had been at the Tonton-Trinqueurs! In the afternoon there was a superb tasting by a bunch of Beaujolais producers; Thillardon, Desvignes, both Suniers, Ann-Sophie Dubois, Pauline Passot, Richard Rottiers, Claire Chasselay and others – on the open square next to Beaune’s Table du Square. I got there early – I was actually the first! I tasted just about everything that I hadn’t tasted in February – we were in the open-air and really there were very few visitors before 5pm – we had started at 3pm. Again a mix of elbow-bumping, handshakes and kisses…

My last appointment of the day was at the cuverie of Andrew Neilsen of Le Grappin – an interesting group of ‘smaller‘ producers. This tasting started at 4pm – I arrived at 5:15pm – I took one look – and the one photo above – and then left. Social-distancing? Not a chance! Way too many people in a very small place – nope – sorry but nope.

I had one last visit on Friday before I took the road back to Switzerland, one on one, and just one elbow-bump. That was surely okay! I was less happy with the sandwich that I bought at the bakery next to Le Grand Frais in Beaune before leaving – or should I assume bare hands putting sandwiches into a paper-bag to be fine? It was, anyway, probably also made with bare hands! But 3 days later I’m still fit 😉

Now it gets complicated though. With its cultural and geographical proximity to Italy, Switzerland doesn’t have one of the best covid-19 records, and countries that surround the Helvetic Confederation are now ‘closing’ their borders – that includes France. I had 28 different visits and tastings planned for this month’s March report – but so far I’ve achieved only 5. I have 9 more planned for next week, but it looks like I can’t travel to France next week – even if I, and my list of growers, are all fit. I have to hope that my subscribers are patient – it could be a long next 4-6 months.

Still, it could be personally worse; I could work for an airline or a restaurant – or even be sick!

more drinks…

By billn on March 11, 2020 #degustation

2018 Chevallier, Chablis
What can I tell you? – another delicious Bourgogne Blanc – actually more like half-price Bourgogne Blanc! Open, tasty, good freshness – even elegance – not the full Chablis experience but a nudge more than the Davenne of the last few days. Elegant and completely delicious wine – just a little less Chablis than normal – perhaps that will come with time…
Rebuy – Yes for bargain great Bourgogne, rebuy – maybe as Chablis – it’s not easy!

1997 Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton
A few years ago this wine went through a phase of herby almost corked bottles – 3 in a row – or maybe that was a run of poor bottles! But this wine is grandiose today! So floral perfumed – violet-infused with a little extra leafy complexity – a great invitation. There’s a sweetness to the fruit of 1997s that was surprising but comely at the time, but the wines of 2015-2019 might have you thinking that this is only off-sweet! In the mouth this has depth and density but delivered in layers of great flavour – I don’t really know what a violet flower tastes like – but probably like this – so deeply infused is the aroma in the flavours too. Simply a pleasure to drink – balanced and complex – gorgeous!
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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