offer of the day – Leflaive 2009…

By billn on December 05, 2010 #the market

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2009 – Puligny-Montrachet (En Primeur)

BOURGOGNE 2009 75cl 35.00 Swiss Francs
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2009 75cl 59.50

PREMIERS CRUS
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Clavoillons 2009 75cl 84.00
MEURSAULT Sous le Dos d’Âne 2009 75cl 89.50
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Folatières 2009 75cl 118.00
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Combettes 2009 75cl 118.00
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Pucelles 2009 75cl 148.00
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Pucelles 2009 150cl 301.00

GRANDS CRUS
BIENVENUES BATARD MONTRACHET 2009 75cl 228.00
BATARD MONTRACHET 2009 75cl 248.00
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET 2009 75cl 315.00

For comparison, here are the 2008/2007 prices.

The same or a little higher than 2008, which were quite a bit lower than 2007. Expensive as they are, I tasted them from tank last week, and they are very, very good!

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more pics from the côtes…

By billn on December 05, 2010 #travel#travel pics

Just back, here are a few more from the album:

Givry
Gingerbread house – Givry
Givry cellar
Montrachet to the left
Auxey
Auxey church
Lyre training in Auxey
La Rochepot
La Rochepot
Pernand
Pernand
Pernand-Charlemagne!
Pernand church
Road from Pernand to Beaune
Chassagne Clos de l’Abbaye
Chassagne l’Abbaye de Morgeot
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vines & wines – and bottles too…

By billn on November 30, 2010 #other sites#travel#travel pics

Clark is off on one – as they say – but there are flashes of brilliance therein.

Anyway, and more imprtantly, we are in the Côtes. That’s not just the ‘Royal We’, chauffeuse and dog included – even some selfless tasting by the driver too – what a brick. Starting on Tuesday in Meursault, moving to Volnay than south again to Puligny – tough day. My sensitive tooth survived the acidity of day one, but will the Sensodyne stand up to Wednesday? Santenay, Meursault and Santenay again – selfless I call it – you really don’t understand the sacrifices! 😉

A few pics from Tuesday & Wednesday:

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bonneau du martray 2000 corton-charlemagne

By billn on November 29, 2010 #degustation

bonneau-martray-charlemagne-2000

One large tranche of work behind me, it’s time to play with oxidation fire – but the dice roll and this is a good, or rather, very good one. Hooray! Fair to say, however, that my happiness is tinged with the sadness of even contemplating failure with such a bottle…

2000 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne
The first whiff is of an oak-based toasty bread, below is a very faint baked citrus note. Very mineral, very lovely width, and even a hint of plush-ness. There is a good mid-palate intensity that intersperses lots of complexity – a faint creamy brûlée lingers in the mouth, and for quite some time. Very good length and complexity, yet, an understated, underdeveloped wine. It is possible to get more enjoyment from a bourgogne today, but with much less to contemplate. The potential for excellent if it avoids too many radicals…
Rebuy – Yes

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books & jomain 2007 puligny 1er les perrières

By billn on November 26, 2010 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!#degustation

booksI’m away for a couple of days and a big pile of envelopes are waiting for me.

Once or twice a year I scour a few favourite booksellers to see if they have anything new (old actually) for me. You can buy books for relatively nothing – such are authors reduced to, their book becoming less expensive than the stamp needed to send it! – nine new (old) ones arrived for the price of a villages Burgundy.

Actually talking of wine I should open something nice.

2007 Jomain, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
A depth of aromas, slightly musky with hints of creme brulee. This is rather unctuous for an 07, lots of depth but very understated acidity – again lots of complexity, plenty of creamy vanilla from the barrels. The flavour grows in the mid-palate, before a long diminuendo in the finish – and there really is a lot of complexity – only here do you find the characteristic minerality of this vineyard. There is no overt toast shown by this concentrated and impressive wine, but all the same, I’d have preferred a little less barrel flavour in this relative youth.
Rebuy – Yes

The Jomain that follows seems to have missed out on the bright acidity if the vintage, but its complexity is undeniable. I followed the Puligny with Dublère’s 2008 Bourgogne Millerandes – the extra acidity of the Bourgogne gave it a different dimension and it wasn’t as disadvantaged as one might at first suppose!

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jadot 2001 gevrey clos st.jacques

By billn on November 22, 2010 #degustation

I was a bit concerned before I even poured the wine – the cork was a nightmare to remove; welded into the neck, the second half (!) needing both ah-so and screwpull-worm in the manner of a 1970s wine – except I was having to tug more.

2001 Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The nose had a slightly burning, alcoholic top-note, below is a diffuse but deep layer of red fruit, augmented by occasional leafy aromas. The palate, whilst silky smooth, only serves to move you along the conveyor to the mid-palate, there waiting for you is a shrill mid-palate that whilst intense is not all that nice. Long but bitter finishing. I remember this being much, much better last time, though admittedly that was 4 years ago. I can only assume that cork must have have been the culprit!
Rebuy – No

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updating and a selection of bottles…

By billn on November 21, 2010 #degustation#site updates

david-clark-2008-bourgogneVarious things:

I’ve just done what I suppose will be a roughly annual updating of my Burgundy Vintage Chart, it slightly preempts the Autumn Burgundy Report which should be online by the end of next week (should be!).

As mentioned, you’re having to wait for the Autumn report because I have too many things – I will have to do some culling to make everything fit!

I’ve also updated the cuvée information at the end of the Hospices profile; much had changed since 2005.

The last days have seen some tasty wine, but not in situations for studied note-taking: Friday evening with friends majored on spicy food, so we stayed with white wines; some fizz, an 07 Alsace Riesling GC, Mischief & Mayhem’s 2007 Puligny (which is now singing) and finally Pierre Morey’s 2006 Meursault Perrières whose extra distinguishing features were a touch more silk and extra mid-palate width. The last days have also seen a couple of bottles from Domain David Clark – both 2008 bourgognes – the Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne Au Pelson. It was actually the Passetoutgrains that had a bit more mid-palate guts, the Pelson is an altogether smoother beast. Both very good and rebuys.

As I take stock, I note that from my case of Dublère 08 Bourgogne Blanc (Millerandes) there are only 4 bottles left – lucky I’m back in the Côtes in 10 days!

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auction weekend…

By billn on November 20, 2010 #beaune#the market

hospices de beauneIt’s that time of year again. This weekend is the auction for the Hospices de Beaune – and there is added spice.

It’s the 150th auction and the (red) grapes looked very fine, but with Christies driving the marketing of the sale into China, part-Chinese auction catalogues and a Chinese actress to stand beside the French actor at the sale, there is a clear, if unstated intent. The ballooning prices attained at recent auctions have had nothing to do with ‘worth’, only face, as Chinese buyers have squared up to each other – they could have bought from a merchant at a fraction of the prices they so publicly paid. But such scenes would be great for the charitable foundation, let’s just hope that the rest of the market remains rational!

I suppose I should have shared this link with you earlier, but there was a chance this year to buy the auction wines – almost direct – without having to sign-up for a full barrel. Don’t worry, there’s always another vintage!

Anyway, that reminds me that I should update my list of Hospices cuvées; there’s a new one and a couple of others have been ‘jigged around’. Another thing for the to-do list!

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