One large tranche of work behind me, it’s time to play with oxidation fire – but the dice roll and this is a good, or rather, very good one. Hooray! Fair to say, however, that my happiness is tinged with the sadness of even contemplating failure with such a bottle…

2000 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne
The first whiff is of an oak-based toasty bread, below is a very faint baked citrus note. Very mineral, very lovely width, and even a hint of plush-ness. There is a good mid-palate intensity that intersperses lots of complexity – a faint creamy brûlée lingers in the mouth, and for quite some time. Very good length and complexity, yet, an understated, underdeveloped wine. It is possible to get more enjoyment from a bourgogne today, but with much less to contemplate. The potential for excellent if it avoids too many radicals…
Rebuy – Yes

I was a bit concerned before I even poured the wine – the cork was a nightmare to remove; welded into the neck, the second half (!) needing both ah-so and screwpull-worm in the manner of a 1970s wine – except I was having to tug more.

2001 Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The nose had a slightly burning, alcoholic top-note, below is a diffuse but deep layer of red fruit, augmented by occasional leafy aromas. The palate, whilst silky smooth, only serves to move you along the conveyor to the mid-palate, there waiting for you is a shrill mid-palate that whilst intense is not all that nice. Long but bitter finishing. I remember this being much, much better last time, though admittedly that was 4 years ago. I can only assume that cork must have have been the culprit!
Rebuy – No

After the (half) bottle at the weekend I was compelled to check it wasn’t an aberrant bottle – it wasn’t. One might convince oneself that the volatile impression is actually a heavy floral note – and the last drops in the glass are quite fine – but that would be stretching a point, and the flowers are not something I’d buy, at least not today. Slightly bitter and tart is something I’m more likely to forgive given its age. Let’s see, but definitely a wine to leave sleeping – its first three years were way better than this showing; I’m almost tempted to try an Amoureuses to make sure I don’t miss something…

After the 99 Château de Chambolle-Musigny villages, this 96 Château de Chorey 1er is clearly a much better wine – at least, from these 2 half-bottles anyway. I expect the ‘general market’ chooses to position these wines differently, but the market often occupies a world where taste is irrelevant. Not as tannic and (perhaps) concentrated as the Grivot Roncières, but that’s a blend of Nuits vs. Beaune and Grivot vs. Germain! Equally engaging in it’s own way though.

I really should open another Mugnier to see if it that performance is consistent – later this week perhaps…

1996 Château Chorey-lès-Beaune, Beaune 1er Les Teurons
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is wide, and reasonably deep – lovely warm red fruit aromas that are edged with a little green seasoning – eventually the nose fills with floral top-notes too, aromatically this gets better and better, peaking after about 90 minutes. In the mouth there’s good acidity and extra density, hence, texture too after the Mugnier. Much less ‘ephemeral’ than the Mugnier but here is much more flavour and dimension, indeed there’s a core of density that implies a few more years are required to fully unwind it. Lovely wine. Very drinkable in this format today, but clearly it’s still a baby.
Rebuy – Yes

Way-back-when (actually about 8 years ago), out of half a dozen decent 99 Chambolles this was the one that had that extra dimension. I put plenty of halves in the cellar to keep me away from the bigger bottles, but also to for keeping an eye on the vintage; I have to say that this half-bottle isn’t representative of the vintage, and hopefully not the rest of these bottles, I suppose I might have to try another in the near future…

1999 J-F Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny
Medium colour. The nose seems a tad volatile though below it could be described as quite pretty as its red fruit base slowly evolves. Nicely balanced, with very good acidity. Elegant rather than slight – though not a million miles from the latter – that would be forgiven if it had a beguiling touch too – today it doesn’t. Hopefully a phase, but in a half bottle this is quite ‘ready’ if far from engrossing. Less good than 18 months ago, that volatile hint being an exceptional bottle I hope…
Rebuy – Maybe