I’m away for a couple of days and a big pile of envelopes are waiting for me.

Once or twice a year I scour a few favourite booksellers to see if they have anything new (old actually) for me. You can buy books for relatively nothing – such are authors reduced to, their book becoming less expensive than the stamp needed to send it! – nine new (old) ones arrived for the price of a villages Burgundy.

Actually talking of wine I should open something nice.

2007 Jomain, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
A depth of aromas, slightly musky with hints of creme brulee. This is rather unctuous for an 07, lots of depth but very understated acidity – again lots of complexity, plenty of creamy vanilla from the barrels. The flavour grows in the mid-palate, before a long diminuendo in the finish – and there really is a lot of complexity – only here do you find the characteristic minerality of this vineyard. There is no overt toast shown by this concentrated and impressive wine, but all the same, I’d have preferred a little less barrel flavour in this relative youth.
Rebuy – Yes

The Jomain that follows seems to have missed out on the bright acidity if the vintage, but its complexity is undeniable. I followed the Puligny with Dublère’s 2008 Bourgogne Millerandes – the extra acidity of the Bourgogne gave it a different dimension and it wasn’t as disadvantaged as one might at first suppose!