2011 Arlaud, Bourgogne Roncevie
Medium, medium-plus colour. For the first 20 minutes after opening, every 2nd or 3rd sniff showed P2 but with food, it basically disappeared – there was never a suggestion on the palate, and it certainly wasn’t aromatically jarring, indeed the nose was bright, beautifully clear and red-fruited with an occasional floral reference. Initially, the flavours just seemed to lack a little cut and definition, but the balance and depth were definitely in the ‘executive bourgogne’ class. Nice acidity in the finish eventually brings a little focus – there’s too little tannin to be relevant to our discussion. A tasty wine, and one that slips down all too easily. In fact, very tasty indeed!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Rapet, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s plenty of CO₂ so this benefits from a vigorous shake (or two). There’s a very pretty depth of dark-red fruit and eventually some violets in the mix too. In the mouth this is round and has a furry texture from the tannins before a lovely, mouth-watering acidity and pretty red fruit flavours take over. There is plenty of structure here but the fruit has nothing forced about it, indeed it’s altogether lighter, less musky and more ethereal than other producers’ ‘Iles’ (but I haven’t tasted their 10s so…). Here is a beautiful extra dimension of fresh flavour – it’s currently a complex and very beautiful wine but with 5 o’clock shadow from the tannins.
Rebuy – Yes

27°C today – whoope! Looks like I’m fixed on the whites 😉
I hope it doesn’t get a bit too boring for you, but having lugged all these bottles home, I’m about to embark on testing them – fear not, I only bought 2 more from Alex!!!

2010 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
I drank the last glass of the 2006 Bourgogne in preparation for this, in comparison, this has a rocket running through the middle of it! There’s a bit of toasty bread to start with, but behind the aromas are of fine sugared lemons with a the faintest hint cold custard. In the mouth this is defined by a glorious acidity that brings the intensity to a crescendo of concentration in the mid-palate – it’s such a whoosh – you’re hardly likely to notice how smooth and silky the texture is. The finish is hint mineral and understatedly long. Overall I found this a thrill in the glass but I wonder if it could get a bit screechy as it ages? Who knows (I eventually will!), but it’s just fabulous now!
Rebuy – Yes

I always buy some for a friend too – I wonder if should tell them that their allocation has been cut(?)!!

I think this may be my last bottle of this, and I couldn’t buy any replacement when I visited Alex last week, as his 2010 and even 2011 are now sold out. That’ll teach me (not) to visit in May instead of January!

2006 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc
Just like the Chenu 2006 Savigny from yesterday, this is bright and as fresh as a daisy. Medium lemon yellow colour and with a musky deep chardonnay nose that has just a hint of green-skinned fruit about it – very inviting. There’s a little richness to this rounded package, but direct from the fridge it has vivacity and a more refreshing flavour than any bourgogne has right to offer. There is a high-toned citrus fruit in the mid-palate that’s rather lovely. 12 bottles, 12 successes – of-course I would rebuy it, but where would I find some?
Rebuy – Yes

Another cellar ‘find’. Indeed there are other 06 Chenus to be drunk over the next weeks!

2006 Louis Chenu et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Blanc)
Medium lemon yellow colour. The characteristic high-toned aromas of Savigny have been augmented with fruit of a rather deeper and riper register here. Likewise across the palate, this offers a little texture and richness plus a ripe, not too sweet fruit that has good mid-palate intensity. From the fridge this is bold and fun, with nice acidity, let it warm in the glass and it becomes a little heavier and perhaps a little over-rich. You have been warned – small pours or drink quickly – in either case you will enjoy!
Rebuy – Maybe

Of all the Beaune 2010s tasted this time last year, this was the one I coveted the most – it had an almost ethereal perfume of violets – it was a wine I decided I could just sniff, no drinking would be necessary.
And now…?

2010 des Croix, Beaune 1er Pertuisots
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with what seems a whiff of oak – but 30 seconds and it’s gone. The purest of pure flowers has become more of a smear, a less focused perfume and perhaps a hint of stems too – though there were none used! – it’s very nice but it’s moved-on from the wine of my dreams. Round, with understated concentration and a faint rasp of tannin. For clarity of flavour you have to wait for the mid-palate and onwards into the finish – here it is very lovely. I bought a few for the cellar, I still think I’ll be rewarded!
Rebuy – Yes

The advantage of returning home from the Côtes with too much (okay – just ‘a lot of’) wine, is that you need to tidy up in the cellar a little, which also means that you will probably ‘find’ something. Actually I found a few things, including this. My experience of other de Vogüés bought (at the time) from this retailer was poor – too many heat impaired bottles – this is probably in the same mould – but let’s see.

2000 Comte Georges de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Medium-plus colour – still with a youthful colour. On first opening there’s a very pretty floral note, but it’s quickly replaced with something spicy and herbal – not unnatractive, but it’s no siren either. After roughly 90 minutes the nose becomes altogether more interesting again, showing faint flowers and a lovely cushioned fruit impression. Quite full in the mouth, still with a platform of mildly grained tannin that supports dark, faintly roast fruit. The acidity slowly comes from behind the veil, yet remains resolute in its understatement. The texture is rather smooth but the border between the mid-palate and finish has a little sharp, acid-led, heat. Certainly this remains a concentrated, drinkable and rather young bottle – just don’t look at the cost of replacement!
Rebuy – Maybe