All my early experiences of the wines of David Duband proved that, for me, they were very commercially styled wines, and frankly I didn’t like them. I’m not sure when the change was exactly – 2005? 2006? or maybe 2007? But there has been an extraordinary change of course by this winemaker, not just eliminating the sickly-sweet oak, but also embracing the whole cluster. Because of the latter trait, they may not be to everyone’s taste, but you have to applaud what’s in the glass…

2010 David Duband, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Louis Auguste
Medium, medium-pale colour. The nose is rather stemmy for the first few minutes but becomes ever-more interesting – eventually it is a simply beguiling blend of redcurrant and smoky wild strawberry – a gorgeous thing. The palate is consistently fresh and zingy, such that I’d be opting to drink this over the next 2-3 years just in case it became shrill, but today it is fresh, decently intense, very tasty and, not forgetting, gorgeously perfumed. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

I really don’t remember what I paid for this – it was part of a mixed-bottle order – but I assume that it wasn’t particularly expensive, so, I clearly didn’t buy enough, and I’m sure the fact that it was 33°C outside didn’t sway my verdict one bit! I hope there’s some left at the merchant, but preferably with better corks – seldom have I seen a cork with so many creases and lenticels – the moment it was extracted I thought the wine would be bad, but what do I know!? 😉

2011 Remi Jobard, Bourgogne Aligoté
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose starts with a hint of savouriness, but that doesn’t hang around long – what’s left for the longer term, is a waxy yellow lemon aroma. Direct from the fridge this is just glorious – perhaps a faint hint of CO₂, but more-so, it has a lovely acidity that you ride into the citrus mid-palate that then expands further with mouth-watering fruit flavours dripping from your gums – rather decent intensity too I would say! On a day like today, a dream-wine despite its modest price.
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
A wine that was finished all too quick – though that’s a good sign! The first notes had just a hint of reduction, but less than 10 minutes after opening, those notes were gone. What remained in the glass was just a little more about barrel than vineyard I felt, but it was a pretty, spicy impression with just an undercurrent of fruit – only the last drops in the glass delivered a beautiful acid-cherry note. In the mouth, this is little more than a middle-weight, but one with plenty of complexity and interest – again there seems to be many barrel references, but there is an innate and captivating balance and grace to this wine – such a shame I couldn’t save any for further appraisal on day 2 – it was too delicious!
Rebuy – Yes

The temperature hovered around 30°C in the afternoon, so I was looking for something refreshing – as a balm!

2011 Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé
Medium yellow. The nose is quite enticing, round and full, it even smells a little sweet – but in a welcoming way. In the mouth I’d have liked a hint more zing (I always want more ‘zing’ 😉 ) yet this offered a mouthfull of round, slightly sweet Macon fruit and with just enough acidity (even as it warmed in the glass) to keep me hooked. Doubtless the 2010 would have been more my kind of thing, but my wife liked it very much, I, however, was looking for something with a bit more cut and thrust. But given the price, I really shouldn’t complain! A wine of excellent value and flavour.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet
The last time I opened one of these, about 1 year ago, it resulted in a cautionary note as there was an element of oxidation to that wine – so how’s this? Medium golden colour. The nose is deep and mineral – no oxidation here – eventually offering a pure yellow lemon note. Concentrated, this wine has real weight in the mouth and shows very good acidity for the vintage, providing good energy. There is a leaching minerality in the finish which I like very much – though the overall stance of the wine starts a hint foursquare, reminiscent of a 2005, it becomes silky and slowly releases new flavour notes. Frankly, for a village wine, this is excellent quality. Back on form – yum!
Rebuy – Yes