three fine chassagne blanc 1ers from 2011…

Update 12.12.2013(11.12.2013)billn


First ski days of the new season with friends – I brought three bottles – one per night, right? Oh dear! Well at least there were three of us, so it was ‘only’ one bottle each. Brilliant opportunity to properly compare and contrast though!

2011 Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
Medium-plus yellow colour. The nose starts mainly with toasty bread, however, it blows away relatively quickly to leave behind a mix of high-tones that include white flower blossom. It’s now really quite pretty. There’s a little rasp to to texture (CO2 I suppose) but there’s fine depth and a wide panorama of flavour – I’m very-much enjoying this! As the glass warms the effect becomes (dare I say it) a little flabby, but keep it max.14°C and all is very well. Overall it has energy and focus with just a little minerality as you reach the finish. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Vincent Dancer, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Tête du Clos
The nose on this, also starts rather toasty – and in this case with a faint reductive note too. The palate is just a little fatter and shows a rubber ‘flavour’ – there’s the reduction for you – luckily it soon goes – and the nose blossoms as it goes, showing more green-skinned fruit and herbs. Round, with a concentrated core of fruit, the acidity provides almost a crispy halo around the dense fruit. Sweetly finishing, those flavours tenaciously hold onto your tongue. Very, very nice indeed. Tossing a metaphorical coin, I have a very slight preference for the minerality of the Morey-Coffinet.
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
The nose starts not quite so wide but there is an (auto?) suggestion of faint mint – no toast. The nose slowly builds density yet remains airy and fine. The palate has more density than the previous two wines, the acidity slowly, slowly making its presence felt and holding a good line into the finish. Clearly this has the most density and dimension of these three wines. I go back to the Morey-Coffinet for it’s minerality but it seems a little mean now in comparison. Very, very tasty wine.
Rebuy – Yes

These are classic 2011s – very very tasty, if not with the pure focus of the 2010s, and they need a closer eye on temperature than the 2010s too – if you want to avoid them getting a little out of shape…

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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