a vendangeur’s (pictoral) tale… (part neuf)

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on October 24, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

And whilst this is part nine, note it’s not day nine – it’s day ten as we had one day off…

my weekend bottles…

By billn on October 24, 2013 #degustation

rebourgeon-mure-mugneret-gibourg-chezeaux

Sadly the ’59 Clos St.Jacques was just a bit too oxidative to be any fun but its replacement was altogether more interesting, concentrated, silkily textured and rather intense – the 2005 Dr.Georges Mugneret, young vines Ruchottes-Chambertin (a.k.a. ‘villages’ Gevrey-Chambertin) – yum – that was a wine to savour.

To replace the Mugneret came the 2010 Rebourgeon-Mure Volnay – too simple to follow the 2005? – far from it; what this wine lost in absolute heft and intensity, it more than made up for with perfume and absolute deliciousness – just a gorgeously adorable villages, I’m pretty sure I don’t have enough!

My last wine for the weekend was the 2010 des Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin ( or D&V Berthaut Gevrey – it is the same wine). This had the same core of beautifully sweet but elegant and energetic 2010 fruit as the Rebourgeon-Mure, there was just something a little more robust about the Gevrey structure – lovely wine still, but my maximum love for the weekend was reserved for the Rebourgeon-Mure Volnay.

a vendangeur’s (pictoral) tale… (part eight)

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on October 23, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

Day 8, the Thursday, 10th Oct 2013, one week after the start of the Arlaud vendange saw us experience the worst weather to date by some margin, and for me, to then the most seriously unpleasant weather I’d ever experienced in a vendange. It had rained heavily overnight and was much colder. We commenced under dark, cloudy, skies c 7.30 a.m. by finishing Morey 1er cru ‘Cheseaux’ from the previous afternoon.

About 8.30 a.m. it started to rain and gradually got heavier. I carried on picking keeping low to the vines for shelter without realisingI’d been abandoned, not understanding the en francais calls to do so. By the time I was shouted in to join the others and got to one of the double cab trucks with a vacancy I was extremely cold and wet and with a full realisation I had not dressed that morning with enough layers. I really feared for my subsequent health. Things were so bad Herve Arlaud went back to base for unheard of coffee (none of which made it to our camion) and also boxes of gloves of some sort as many of the younger vendangeurs were picking gloveless which must have been horrific.

The grapes in Cheseaux were actually pretty nice, unlike the weather. Once the rian eventually stopped, although it was sort of in the air all morning, we finished Cheseaux and moved on to Blanchards. I remained cold and wet all morning – it really was a gritted teeth, shivering, exercise to get through to lunch – before I started to eat I spent betwen 5/10 minutes leaning on the refectory log stove getting warm again. A very, very, very testing and most unpleasant morning – partly my own fault for not being more appropriately dressed but looking back count myself fortunate not to derive at least a cold if not something more serious.

As the song says “Things could only get better”. They did for the sunny afternoon concentrating on the 5 ha plot of Bourgogne Roncevie (5 passes by the full team), but little did we know it that Day 8 was a precursor of worse horrors for Day 10 & 11 on the Hautes-Cotes.

1988 savigny champ chevrey from tollot-beaut…

By billn on October 22, 2013 #degustation

1988 tollot-beaut savigny champs chevrey

1988 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Champ Chevrey
Hmm, the sniff after removing the cork smells a bit cooked – maybe an hour in the refrigerator to give it a cool aeration. The nose now has a little soy sauce and meat and a darker slightly pruny depth – not magnificent, but still no turn-off – a bit of time and it gets ever-more interesting. In the mouth this is rather delicious, smoothly textured until a lumpy mid-palate ride where both the tannins and acidity jolt around a little, but with a sweetness that comes from ripe fruit and a lovely depth of flavour – I find it very moreish. I suspect that carefully stored examples may be even better, but I certainly wouldn’t ignore this if it passed by my corkscrew!
Rebuy – Yes

a vendangeur’s (pictoral) tale… (part seven)

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on October 22, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

Onwards…

wresting the crown back from jasper?

By billn on October 21, 2013 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

1-WP_20131017_005

1-WP_20131017_004I spotted a fantastic new book while I was doing the vendanges, not cheap at €69 in Athenaeum in Beaune, but once the pages are thumbed you are (I was!) compelled to buy.

Let’s be clear, it’s in French, but who cares with such wonderful new maps from Sylvain Pitiot – but wait, how can they have made such a mistake with such a beautifully presented (and expensive) book? There are two maps of Gevrey-Chambertin! Indeed there turns out to be two maps of most communes! Eventually the penny drops; one map is for the climats of that village e.g. Chapelle-Chambertin, the other is for the lieu-dits e.g. Gemeaux! Ooh! now that’s useful. There are also tables that define each climat (village lieu-dits too) to 4 decimal places (hectares) and list (for instance) exactly which lieu-dits make up Fixin’s Clos de Perrières. Add to that a list of the producers (almost, there is an occasional ‘missing’) who declared a particular Grand Cru in 2011 and this is a pretty terrific reference work.

I spoke with somebody at the BIVB, and they told me that there is another book with descriptions of the climats by the producers that is currently going through final ‘proofs’ – should be available in time for (my!) Christmas stocking. If they are indeed companion copies, then the locals are clearly trying to wrest the guru title back from Jasper Morris – though this book’s scope is narrower, and for most of the world, they will have to think about English versions for that to happen 😉

PS Sorry about the site being down yesterday – but my hosting company (it was them not me) didn’t feel the need to rush into doing anything remedial, after-all, it was only MIA for about 18 hours and nothing moves in Switzerland on a Sunday…!

catching-up with andrew @legrappin

By billn on October 18, 2013 #producer update

andrew nielsen @ le grappin

In-between clearing-up the aftermath from the previous evening’s Paulée, and lunch on Thursday, I and the traveling Kiwi & Jura winemakers (from the home domaine) paid a visit to Andrew Nielsen in the shiny-new premises for Le Grappin, that he recently acquired in the centre of Beaune.

Okay, shiny-new it certainly isn’t – not yet anyway. Andrew moved in just before the harvest and his first job was to move all his tanks and barrels from Savigny-lès-Beaune to his new home – the former winery of Fanny Sabre. There may be apartments above him, but Andrew just has the ground-floor and cellar below – a cellar that once housed gunpowder! – It’s clearly a tight fit during the harvest period, but things will get easier over the next weeks, I’m sure.

It was good to see Andrew’s small production (smaller than it should have been) of (ex Morey) old gamay which was just about starting to ferment via carbonic maceration. More interesting for me was the chance to taste Andrew’s 2012s, the ones I’d ordered from his release offer – I’d ordered Savigny Blanc et Rouge and Beaune 1ers Boucherottes and Grèves blanc – and lovely they tasted too, I’m a happy purchaser. He is not quite sold-out if you are interested.

Based in London, Andrew has done good business, personally selling his wines at farmers’ markets etcetera, he’s also done a good trade in ‘boxed’ wines – red, rosé and white – which sell well and massively cut down on the cost of transport versus heavy glass. Well-done Andrew!

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