two pre-mountain bottles…

By billn on August 05, 2013 #degustation

chenu-savigny-lavieres-rebourgeon-mure-beaune

Drunk before heading to the mountains: the first wine was to commiserate with the vignerons of Savigny – I saw pictures of Lavières vines that would deliver no harvest – hopefully some owners fared better…

The second bottle was one that started a little tight but really improved with time…

2006 Chenu Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières
Medium, bright colour. The nose mixes earth, red fruits and plenty of charm. Just a lovely balance in the mouth – reminds me of the clarity of many 2010s but in a medium-bodied, very elegant and well-polished package. Just a treat!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Rebourgeon-Mure, Beaune
Much deeper coloured. The nose starts with depth but limited width – a couple of hours are needed for a cheeky, chirpy red fruit note. In the mouth it begins compact and tight – most reticent despite fine balance. Amazingly the second half of this, overnighted in the fridge, was just the most open and enjoyable wine – chalk and cheese – seemingly with more density and certainly more interest. Very nice indeed, and that’s before you spot the attractive price!
Rebuy – Yes

louis max 2011 mercurey clos la marche

By billn on July 25, 2013 #degustation#ladypyrazines

Well, the white was just so good, there was nothing stopping me here – perhaps there should have been!

2011 Louis Max, Mercurey Clos la Marche
Medium, bright red colour, edged with salmon pink. It seems that its southern geography was not enough save this wine from a little pyrazine; it starts, seemingly, with none before slowly growing in the glass to at least a P2 level; to start with, there were other aromas, but by now they are hidden from me. In the mouth this is relatively lite but it’s also lithe and concertedly insinuates nice flavours that leech from your gums and tongue – it’s good acidity too. There seems to be much going for this until I finally get some pyrazine flavour too – I’m clearly the wrong person to review what is otherwise probably a very nice wine.
Rebuy – No

louis max 2010 mercurey les caudroyes

By billn on July 23, 2013 #degustation

louis-max-2010-mercurey-les-caudroyes

2010 Louis Max, Mercurey Les Caudroyes (Blanc)
A wine that instantly surprises me. The nose is fine, ripe enough but maybe just a hint saline too. In the mouth there’s a core of ripe fruit but it’s long and tight in shape rather than fat and round, the acidity is also a fine foil to good mid-palate intensity. Blind I would have no doubt in pronouncing this to be a good 2 year-old 1er Cru Chablis – I never said I was a great blind taster/guesser 😉 A wine enjoyed all the more for its excellent value.
Rebuy – Yes

more hail in the côte de beaune…

By billn on July 23, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

I just got off the phone with a grower in Beaune – I’d called to get a bit more information on the flavenscence d’orée insecticide spraying ‘story’ – in the background I could still hear the remnants of the thunder-storm. The temperature was now just 18°C – 1 hour ago it had been well over 30°C – that was before the storm hit.

Like last year, hail has ripped through the vines from Volnay to Savigny; further south I’ve no info yet; further north, the Côte de Nuits experienced only about 1mm of rain and no hail. I’m not sure where the border lay – was it Savigny or Corton? – we’ll know later…

The grower said he called somebody in the vineyards, and the hail on their tractor cab sounded like gunshots. He then drove towards Pommard and said it was like somebody was throwing rocks at his car and the roads were all flooded – there were even fallen trees in the roads. He visited Beaune Grèves and said he was almost frightened to see the quantity of water coming down the vineyards towards his car, all boiling and brown. The scene was apparently apocalyptic, with leaves strewn about the ground. A quick glance in the heavy rain made him think losses could be 50% – he heard from growers in Savigny and Volnay who said 60-90% losses. They are all a bit emotional right now as very many in the Côte de Beaune desperately needed a good volume this year. A better idea of losses will come with the new light tomorrow, and when the emotions have dimmed a little.

I would have added some of the photos that are now filling facebook and twitter – but it just seems too voyeuristic. As for the insecticide discussion, we put that to bed – the leaf-hoppers will anyway have been drowned…

A subsequent note from ‘a man in Aloxe’:

As you know, hail yesterday at c. 4pm was both widespread and intense – almost exclusively in the Cote de Beaune.

I spoke with a few people we work with this morning. In northern Meursault and especially throughout Volnay and Pommard ( serious and widespread in both villages ) , Savigny ( several village plots and Les Lavières ) and the Beaune vineyards ( Beaune Premier Crus – Bressandes, Greves, Les Cents Vignes, Clos des Avaux too ).

Re. the point you raise in Big Red Diary about where the border lay, I would say right about here on north side of Aloxe-Corton. I was in Aloxe-Corton all of yesterday afternoon and we seemed to be on the cusp of the weather with a lot of torrential rain but little powerful hail – our village plot of Les Caillettes is fortunately fine, but behind us further up the hill of Corton there is some damage.

chézeaux gevrey-chambertin les cazetiers

By billn on July 22, 2013 #degustation

chezeaux-gevrey-chambertin-cazetiers-2010

A textbook example of the style of the Fixin Berthauts – who are the metayeurs here – super!

2010 des Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers
The nose is finely detailed, just a hint of flowers too over darker fruit. In the mouth this is a perfectly balanced middle-weight; flowing acidity and delicate fruit whose complexity grows in the mid-palate. Lingering and elegant in the finish. The last drops in glass offer a beautiful high-toned red-currant. This bottle simply wasn’t big enough!
Rebuy – Yes

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne tête du clos

By billn on July 21, 2013 #degustation

After yesterday’s Les Vergers I decided I was on a run…

2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Tête du Clos (Blanc)
The nose is more pungent, Chassagne-style herbs, it seems brooding and quite powerful – normally a description of a red! In the mouth this is quite a ride; power and almost an element of tannin – it really reminds me of a hairy-chested red Chassagne – yet the flavours are of a white wine, and the acid balance is lovely. Maybe a hint of CO2 was contributing to that tannin-like texture – but anyway, a wine to wait for, while you drink the Les Vergers!
Rebuy – Maybe

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne les vergers

By billn on July 20, 2013 #degustation

camille-giroud-2010-chassagne-vergers

2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers (Blanc)
Like a sword, a well-balanced sword, sharp, thrusting and wielded with power. Okay enough of that, but this wine was really winner, with its minerality ande a certain tension. Simply lovely!
Rebuy – Yes

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