burgundy 2013 harvest – friday 4th october…

By billn on October 04, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

DSC02576Ah, traditional Burgundy – not the cassoulet, but the cassoulet with La Romanée 😉

The forecast rain was just a heavy downpour of a few minutes overnight, but the weather front had been delayed, so the morning was a mix of sun and clouds – more like 20° than the 25°C of Thursday. We triaged Beaune Les Cras – some rot to remove – and Volnay Les Lurets (from the lower, villages section) before lunch. Because we were expecting some of the worst grapes of the harvest, a new setup was demanded; under our destemmer was another vibrating table to triage the destemmed grapes, also with an ‘air-blade’ attached so that (based on density) shriveled or unripe grapes that had got through the first triage table would be removed. Queue the Mistral 60!

Most vintages are about how effective you triage, and the results looked excellent here!

The first drops of rain began after 1:00pm in Beaune, and the grower in Gevrey was concerned about rot – so decided to bring in their Charmes-Chambertin. With about a 45 minute break we had rain all afternoon, but first more Volnay Lurets and another parcel of villages Volnay before the arrival of our Charmes. The grape size was generally smaller on the older vines part of the Lurets, but a roughly similar amount of triage was needed for under-ripe and some rot. The villages Volnay that followed required just a little less triage, but pretty similar really. The Charmes had some nice small berries, but indeed there was already a little rot – the team worked hard to finish the lot – despite the Charmes being ‘unplanned’. Triage was completed by 21:00hrs – at least an hour of clean-up then required…
 

la romanée 2007…

By billn on October 04, 2013 #degustation

It was the boss’s birthday, so with fellow vendangeurs, we drank to toast his health…

2007 Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée
Opened a couple of hours before and left open in a cool place. The wine starts with a big, round panorama of a nose, hints of smoke and spice in quite an 07 kind of way. The palate is linear and crystalline bright, perfect acidity and clarity but rather narrow. The length is very impressive with plenty of dry extract – but not astringent-dry – this is a very silky wine that melts on your tongue. I left the last of the glass a few hours and returned; The nose was deeper but the width attenuated, whereas in the mouth there was more width and mineral flavour. But forget the analysis, 8 beaming faces at lunchtime was the only feedback necessary.
Rebuy – Yes

burgundy 2013 harvest – thursday 3rd october…

By billn on October 03, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

WP_20131003_001My first time on the new TGV route – indicated 319 km/h towards Dijon – I would lose my car in France even for attempting that! And what a great way to arrive, on a summer-like autumn day of 25°C – definitely t-shirts by the triage table. Of-course the weather overnight (and tomorrow!) is forecast to be very wet, prompting (among others) Dominique Lafon to harvest his Montrachet this afternoon, likewise, Caroline l’Estimé was bringing in her Bâtard-Montrachet.

The home domaine has a few whites, and all were completed yesterday, save for a little hailed Corton-Charlemagne – it can wait – the weather from Saturday-onwards is again supposed to be benevolent. But today was the first day of reds at the domaine so time to get the sleeves rolled-up.

Before lunch came Volnay Santenots. This plot was barely touched by the hail, and the grape size was very small – the main factor in the low yields. Some beautiful bunches indeed, with no rot to triage, but lots of second-set and otherwise under-ripe bunches to look out for. Very happy with the quality of this – if not the quantity. Then lunch, a modest affair of Chassagne Tête du Clos (2011) and Grands-Echézeaux (2008) – there was food too…

Post-lunch we needed full concentration on our Santenay 1er La Comme. Year-in, year-out these grapes need the most triage – and so it was again today – rot, under-ripe grapes, you name it. The grapes actually tasted quite good, so let’s see how good the result will be. Third and last parcel of the day was Beaune Les Avaux – old vines but with a clone that usually delivers cherry-sized grapes. This year, surprisingly we had very modest sized grapes, indeed nice clean grapes too – there was a relatively rare spot of rot to triage, and the usual under-ripe / second-set bunches, but very happy with this, and it’s an early finish too – the last grapes triaged by 18:30 – still there’s 2 hours of clean-up ahead of us…

all-change in morey st.denis…

By billn on October 03, 2013 #producer update#vines for sale

a-brace-of-charlopinsWhilst the harvest starts to peak in the village of Morey, it’s all-change for some of its number. David Clark and Kellen Lignier are working their last vintages, doubtless both with a sense of sadness, but for very different reasons.

Starting with David Clark; it was clear that he hoped to move up through the crus, eventually ending up with some nice 1er or grand cru land – but after ten years, he still hadn’t broke through the villages-level ‘ceiling’. Add to that a back that wasn’t born to grape-tending and was needing regular physio-sessions, and a pretty lonely existence in Morey, earlier this year David finally decided to sell his domaine. It’s been common knowledge in and around Morey that Yann Charlopin (right, right – son of Philippe) together with his wife, Justine, are buying the domaine – indeed, everything was signed and sealed today – Yann, who has also worked in Tasmania, is looking to establish his own credentials, stepping away from the shadow of his father. The new domaine will be called Charlopin-Tisser.

David who wanted to stay in Morey until the end of the year is now paying rent 😉 I wish David all the fun and success in whatever he plans to do next – I understand some of David’s engineering creations, his bottling ‘line’ for instance, have found a worthy home at Le Grappin.

Onto Kellen Lignier, who, with her two children, combatively continued making wine (and very good wine too) following the death of her husband, Romain Lignier. Most of the domaine’s vineyards belonged to Romain/Kellen’s Father/Father-in-law, Hubert Lignier. Well-passed his retirement, Hubert embarked on a course to recover all his vines from Kellen and (I suppose) his grand-children – no easy task, as Kellen and family were de-facto metayeurs – and French law usually sides with them. First Hubert had to get a wine-maker back into the family, and that was his son, Laurent. Then he set about a number of legal actions which first returned the Gevrey 1er Les Combottes and now about 3 years later, it seems everything else. Kellen has had some bitter things to say on her Facebook page, but it seems a fait-à-complit. I assume there will be no L&A Lignier 2013’s, but Kellen rarely returns emails anymore…

I also wish Kellen, and family, all the best in whatever they next choose to do.

And it goes without saying, that a certain book’s chapter on Morey St.Denis is now way out of date…

burgundy 2013 harvest – wednesday 2nd october…

By billn on October 02, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

Ever get the feeling that you are 1 or 2 days late?

Despite a swathe of the Côte de Nuits being untouched, indeed needing at least another week in some areas, I see the pictures of Jadot’s Musigny rolling along the triage table (today…) and can’t help thinking – ‘oops!’

Yesterday some excellent producers in Meursault already finished their harvest – think Javillier and Fichet. Patrick Essa has some lovely millerandes in his Meursaults that have helped bring his sugar levels to something over 13° of potential alcohol. Coche-Dury started picking their Corton-Charlemagne this afternoon, and Dubreuil-Fontaine started picking yesterday. Still there is still plenty to cut in Chassagne and Puligny. A few domaines began harvesting their Beaunes and Pommards in the autumnal foggy mist yesterday, but today was a blue sky day. Reports on those grapes are that the fruit is relatively easy to triage, so what they will make wine with is good quality, but it is a rare plot that reaches 20 hl/ha where it was hailed…

Anyway, enough of these second-hand photos and experiences, with the weather set fair, tomorrow I will have grapes in my own hands – not to mention an occasional glass!!!

Photos from: Faiveley, Jadot, Caroline l’Estimé, Nicolas Rossignol

warming up for the harvest…

By billn on October 01, 2013 #degustation

DSC02562

Well, you have to don’t you(?) One has to keep up you know… 😉

1991 Jaboulet-Vercherre, Echézeaux
Seems to have a little more about it than the last bottle, though still a little anonymous – perhaps it’s just a phase…
Rebuy – No

1999 Henri & Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Au-Dessus des Malconsorts
Deep colour, deep spicy nose – perhaps a little macerating plum in there too – overall, dark-shaded fruit. Lithe but concentrated, lovely impact, subdued tannin but still plenty of mid-palate complexity. This is drinking very well today, very well indeed!
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet
This particular bottling, once brilliant, has become rather hit and miss – indeed there are now more misses than hits – it’s time to drink up. The colour is rather dark, but fortunately there’s no hint of oxidation in either the aroma or the flavours – it is a hint flat and fat, yet generous all the same. Still enough here to enjoy, but a wine that’s had its day.
Rebuy – No

burgundy 2013 harvest – monday 30th sept…

By billn on September 30, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

les-chardonnays

Whilst the overwhelming majority of red grapes wait on the vines, the chardonnay cutting is now in full flow; many were the domaines that started at the end of last week, more-so at the weekend, and now practically everyone has started.

There is a little to triage in some vineyards, almost nothing in others, interestingly the grapes are far from uniform in size – whilst the average size is relatively small, each bunch seems to have its fair share of canon-balls! The quantity of ‘millerandes’ is helping the potential alcohol levels, if not the potential yields – I’ve seen plenty of musts already with 13°+…

Reds will slowly but surely come into focus now – I’m there from Thursday, can’t wait! So-far, at least, the weather remains benevolent…

The Facebook images of various producers:

vincent & denis berthaut’s 1992 fixin

By billn on September 29, 2013 #degustation

DSC02561

A surprisingly nice diversion this wine!

1992 Vincent & Denis Berthaut, Fixin
Whilst the wax is broken, and there are signs of seepage through the cork, there’s no trace of oxidation on the nose. The colour remains deep and robust, the nose rather clean. Here is a big chunk of wine, still with plenty of tannin, yet not particularly rustic – impressively so given such an obvious concentration – there’s very well judged acidity too. I have to say that I’m very, very impressed – a wine that transcended my expectations.
Rebuy – Yes

bruno clair 2009 msd en la rue de vergy…

By billn on September 26, 2013 #degustation

bruno-clair-morey-2009-rue-vergy

2009 Bruno Clair, Morey St.Denis En la rue de Vergy
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose dovetails hints of cream with wide, fresh red fruit notes, eventually it becomes a little floral and has lovely detail too – nice! Fresh, intense, but with tannin that seems to grow from the core – never overwhelming, but with just a little rasp of texture. The finish is about subdued but fresh fruit. Cleanly presented wine, and with plenty of stuffing too. Good now despite the hairy forearms – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

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