Why Big Red Diary?

2008 jadot bourgogne chardonnay


I already pcked my ‘house white‘ for 2010, but this is close in quality yet with a big advantage – it’s 60% of the cost. Hmm, next year could be tough!

2008 Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Chardonnay
This starts with that faintly sherbet note you often find on wines with less punch from the more marginal villages – think St.Romain. There’s a little faint oak note note that helps fill-out the aromas at the bottom and eventually a much more favourable core of yellow fruit. Above average intensity for the label, very fine acidity – then a surprise – a deep and clear extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate; a little wood-derived vanilla cream; it’s a warm, Côte de Beaune type of flavour that would still – even at this regional level – distinguish the bottle from, for instance Chablis. The finish is a little more mineral and also holds-on reasonably well. This is very successful indeed.
Rebuy – Yes

fourrier 2001 vougeot 1er les petits vougeots


There are plenty of reports, predominantly from the US, that Fourrier’s 2001s have their problems – in particular they seem to becoming more and more volatile. Well here’s one that I anyway didn’t like when I first tasted it (way back in 2004). But that bottle was reductive in character, rather than volatile – this (surprisingly), turned out rather nice…

2001 Fourrier, Vougeot 1er Les Petits Vougeots Vieilles Vignes
Medium ruby-red colour, still a hint of cherry-red. There’s a little herb and an undercurrent of red fruit – everything is quite tidy. In the mouth this is barely medium-bodied, very slightly acid-forward (but that’s its age) but smooth overall. A little tight, but not unrewarding. Actually far better than my first bottle of this some years ago…
Rebuy – Yes

2003 marc colin st.aubin 1er en remilly

A surprisingly drinkable wine, if in a vintage style that doesn’t appeal (to me…)

2003 Marc Colin, St.Aubin 1er en Remilly
Medium-plus golden colour. The nose is slightly tropical, and certainly ripe. In the mouth there is a roundness of shape and okay acidity – the mid-palate flavour has a good extra dimension that goes long in the finish. Just missing a little energy, but smuch better than I expected!
Rebuy – No

1995 dujac morey st.denis


Ignoring for a second 2004, 1995 is the red vintage from recent memory that disappoints me the most – this wine is something of a poster-child for the vintage – it’s just not as good now as it was 5 years ago. The slightly hard personality is becoming more and more reminiscent of the 1994 vintage. Plenty of time left for an improvement I suppose…

1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis
Medium ruby-red colour with a faint browning at the rim. The nose is sweet and rather stemmy, there’s a faint beefy note that has me flirting with the notion of brett, and some mixed herbs. In the mouth the wine starts narrow, slowly opening over tongue. The acidity is a little sharp and metallic in flavour, it makes you forget to look for tannin, which whilst understated, is still a little blocky. Reasonable length and some sweetness, but today, no love.
Rebuy – No

in the côtes…


I’m just back from burgundy, and I have to say, with a stinking cold – no wines for me in the next days. Also not so picturesque while I was there – too much mist. Still I have a few things in my notebook to fill in the gap 😉

PS – anybody ever heard of these? :


2006 bouchard père monthélie 1er clos les champs fulliot

Not that cheap, but a very good wine:

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Monthélie 1er Clos les Champs Fulliot
This is a ‘domaine’ wine. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. There’s width and interest on this perfumed, high-toned nose – very pretty indeed, almost in a Volnay style. The texture has a slightly gravelly tannin as its base, but the balance is very, very good. There’s some faint licorice flavours in the finish from what is otherwise a red-fruit dominated performance. Oh and it’s quite a good finish too.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 antonin guyon corton-charlemagne


2000 Antonin Guyon, Corton-Charlemagne
Medium-plus golden colour. Despite the colour, there is no trace of oxidation here, rather it is forward but well integrated sweet brioche oak, behind is a good, freshly mineral base. Concentrated, silkily, waxily smooth texture. The acidity is understated and the flavours are a mix of the mineral and savoury. Very mineral finish that is also very long. This should be at it’s best in another 4 or 5 years, but it did rather on day1 – day two was even better!
Rebuy – Yes

a funny performance…

A couple of weekend bottles. Somebody else’s house and glassware made for puzzling performances from both of these wines – in both cases totally unlike the last bottles I tasted:

2007 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet
Wow this bursts with toasty-ness, brioche and just about everything but fruit. There is concentration and acidity but no togetherness. The sweet fruit across the tongue held it together, but it seemed quite peculiar.
2004 Pascal Lachaux, Clos St.Denis
Hmm, whilst the 04 character is very, very tiny (like before), the aromas are rather diffuse and slightly stemmy. In the mouth there is some balance, but the texture and concentration of the last bottle seems largely absent…

I was bemused – perhaps it was the piercing Muscat we started with!

06 bouchard père et fils volnay 1er caillerets cuvée carnot


I may have criticised the last Bouchard (the Mercurey) for it’s relative (versus quality) value, and here is a wine that has more than doubled in price since the 2002 vintage, yet despite being unhappy about that, there is something innate and worth paying for in a good Volnay – and this has the potential for very good!

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay 1er Caillerets Cuvée Carnot
The nose shows a width of creamy red fruit and perhaps has a rose-petal dimension too – really very pretty. Plenty of concentration, the tannin is slightly forward but of velvet texture. A good additional fruit dimension in the mid-palate with understated but balancing acidity. The flavour of the finish remains very barrel-influenced today, but is very long. Will be super.
Rebuy – Yes

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