Why Big Red Diary?

wine camp

Craig Camp seems an awfully discerning chap, or at least he’s yet to see through me 😉

savigny, michel gay

1999 Michel Gay, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Serpentièrestry to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is forward and deep but to my taste unfortunately pruney – though there is a core of red fruit. The wine is concentrated and well textured – there’s plenty of wine here, ripe and sweet but again there’s that rather blocky, pruney element in the mid-palate, some raisin too. As said, there’s a lot of wine here, unfortunately I don’t like it very much… Rebuy – No

a tollot a day…

champs chevrey tollot2001 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Champs Chevrey
Medium ruby-red. A nose that’s wide and relatively high-toned, just a slight estery edge over faint, warm, ripe red fruit. The palate is soft and light with sweet red fruit, even a hint of oranges going into the finish. From a flavour perspective, this actually showing quite a bit of maturity. Lighter and more elegant than many Tollot wines, but it’s made in a very sympathetic way, as in this case there is no oak character at all. Very tasty, but not a wine for the ages…
Rebuy- Maybetry to find this wine...

bouchard p&f 03 bourgogne

bouchard la vigneeDrunk in a nice restaurant, this was the chef’s choice:

2003 Bouchard P & F, La Vignée Bourgogne Pinot Noirtry to find this wine...
Nice deep colour – already quite ruby-red at the core – looks good the glass. The aromatics are relatively muted, a little earth and faint underbrush, only occasional glimpses of nice red fruit.
The palate is soft with good apparent concentration, enough acidity and tannins that only show themselves with a little grain as you move into the finish. At its price-point this is a very successful wine, I was only missing a little ‘character’.
Rebuy – Maybe.

non-interventionist writing

Treat yourself to a dose of `non-interventionist´writing. An article that had me smirking on the tram to work; Eric Asimov with his tongue only slightly in-cheek. Here is a great follow-up post – really absorbing, insightful writing – and reading!

Heading to Dutch Siberia (Friesland) today and not back until late Friday – so it will mainly be offline stuff for a few days…

when the corks are okay – tollot-beaut & truffière

tollot-beaut beaune greves
2002 Tollot-Beaut, Beaune Grevestry to find this wine...
Deep cherry-red. The nose is quite super; a deep and forward mix of black and red cherry over subtly creamy oak. Depth, concentration and velvety texture, pushed by the mouthwatering acidity this is very long. There’s still a littly oaky bitterness on the finish, another 2-3 years and I think this will be absorbed. Despite the open nose there’s a real brooding sense of character to this wine. Top-notch Beaune that will amply repay cellar time. Rebuy – Yes

This bottle really improved my mood after the two corked bottles. Also we had a ‘Truffière’ Corton-Charlemagne. I’m still not sure of the provenance of this label, I think it might be a second label of Vincent Girardin(?)
2003 Le Truffière, Corton-Charlemagnetry to find this wine...
An oversize and overweight ‘statement bottle’ with a super-deep punt. Medium yellow. The nose shouts ‘pear-drops’ before becoming a more subtle blend with classic white blossom and higher-toned alcoholic notes. The palate is quite well concentrated and reasonably long, it just needs an extra dab of acidity to carry the ample mid-palate through into the finish. Almost good. Rebuy – No

a corking saturday (tca, bonneau du martray & marc colin)

corked bottlesWhat do these bottles have in common?

Well, they were opened 30 minutes apart and both were corked. I’d been looking forward to opening the Bonneau, so chose my birthday – the perfect example of Murphy’s Law, or as the Germans prefer to say; ‘Shit Happens’.

Anyway, post Corton-Charlemagne, I decided to cleanse my palate with Marc Morey’s 2002 Chassagne 1er Morgeots – what a mistake-a to make-a. This (red) Chassagne was even more heavily tainted than the white – in fact so much so I couldn’t even bear to describe how bad.

Fortunately two other bottles came to the rescue – one of which was really excellent, I’ll get to that tomorrow, but for the record, the Bonneau had some (slightly oxidised) potential:

1991 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagnetry to find this wine...
Medium golden. Hints of oxidation – though mild – concentrated, nice texture, more oxidatative notes but acceptable, good acidity and heavily corked…

guyon, vosne-romanée

2001 Domaine Guyon, Vosne-Romanéetry to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red. The nose starts with deep and spicy, even rubbery oaky elements, slowly there are high-toned red fruit and floral aspects and eventually more plummy fruit added to the mix, the last drops in the glass smell fantastic. There’s a real kick when you first taste this, a burst of concentration and mouthwatering acidity. Initially there’s lots of spicy and slightly guyon vosne romaneebitter oak in the finish too – this takes quite a while to improve – but only a little, taking on a more licorice style. For me there’s still far too much oak marking this wine and I’m sure it will never be fully absorbed – great for those that like this style, but I find it a shame that good underlying material is ‘coloured’ in this way. Rebuy – No

Not to be confused with the domaine Antonin Guyon, this small domaine is based in Vosne, the latest bottles have the label Michel et Jean-Pierre Guyon, but the design remains the same. They typically make concentrated wines and use a lot of toasty oak but the results can be variable; the 2002 Vosne and Echézeaux took up the oak pretty well, but as you can see, this 2001 less so.

ringing the changes for the report

comment picComing to the end of the 4th year of Burgundy Report, the format has essentially remained static since issue 1; there’s been the odd design tweak here and there but otherwise it’s the same. I’m constantly aware that this format could become rather stale; i.e. the (potentially mad) ramblings of one individual. To hopefully counter (or at least delay) that situation I’ve decided that a little democracy is called for.

From the last report of 2006 (in a little over a month) the considerable knowledge of the readership can be deployed – should they wish. Just like this update log, at the bottom of every, new content page will be your chance to comment, offer alternative views, or correct the patently false! Or even just comment on some-one else’s comment! There’s a depth of knowledge in the readership that no individual could replicate; winemakers, relatives of winemakers, sellers of wine and don’t let us forget – ‘enthusiasts’. Let’s see if some of that knowledge can be brought out with this change.

Typically just as I find what I believe to be the best technical solution I see something ‘even better’ on the horizon – but why wait(?), first let us see if it brings some value.

the last gevrey of the week (probably!)

thierry mortet gevreyThe last Gevrey of the week is the deepest coloured, most juvenile and perhaps most concentrated; it also came from a producer that I don’t think I’ve tried before – Thierry Mortet is the younder brother of the late Denis Mortet and also based in Gevrey-Chambertin. His range when I last saw them listed is quite small, only 4 cuvées. Some of his bother’s skill is surely evident in this wine.
2001 Thierry Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium-plus red, still with a strong cherry-red hue. The nose starts quite masculine with a strong Gevrey-earth character supporting a melange of red and black berry fruit, slowly this becomes softer and a little higher toned if not better focused. The palate is full and concentrated and obviously started life with a real injection of oak, but the residual effect is more about soft, fat texture and a little bitterness in the finish. The bitterness doesn’t last long and is eventually replaced with a reasonable length and a more creamy aspect. The tannins have a little rasp right at the end, but this is a very accomplished wine, and quite concentrated for an 01. Really very good. Rebuy – Yes

one from laurent (no the other one!)

2001 Domaine Ponsot, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée l’Abeilletry to find this wine...
Medium ruby red. The nose starts with a little undergrowth then soil, both fade to reveal a diffuse red-fruit curtain – improvement is required and the patient are rewarded; first with a deeper plum fruit before a lovely high-toned and focused red fruit effect – very nice. The palate is much less ripe than the 01 Bachelet Gevrey that precedes it, providing a sour-cherry fruit which is not unattractive and mirrored by the balanced, mouth-watering yet somewhat tart acidity. The overall texture is excellent with understated velvet tannins. In the end this is a wine that even with food, is just a little too tart – I can enjoy it, but I wouldn’t rebuy it. Rebuy – No

chassagne from philippe colin

philippe colin chassagne vergers2004 Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergerstry to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. There’s a well-integrated nose of toasted bread and rich fruit. Very forward acidity is the initial impression. The acidity is very smooth and very mineral in aspect, initially rather dominating the linear fruit, but there’s no missing that sneaky and very creamy length. Once my palate adjusted (I don’t think the wine materially changed) I was able to see the extra kick of citrus edged fruit in the mid-palate and appreciate the super purity. Drink this today direct from the fridge or with a buttery sauced dish, alternatively store away for 5 years before revisiting. On day two there’s quite a honied aspect to this wine, and less intensity to the acidity. I preferred day 1. Rebuy – Yes

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