I was, perhaps, a little dumb to open this one; I’m in the early stages of a cold, and despite losing many of my sniffing faculties, I just happened to reach for the cork-screw anyway!

The 2002 was the first vintage for this wine (I think), the declassified young vines from Ruchottes-Chambertin. On release I though it excellent, unlike the 2003 or 2004, each compromised but for different reasons. I also have a 2005 ready to open, but maybe my nose will demand that I wait a few days for that!

2002 Dr. Georges Mugneret, Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium-plus colour. The nose is a little tight (or maybe my nose is a little tight!) but there is still a sweet dark-cherry or plum fruit. In the mouth this has a lovely, welcoming, sweetness, a round yet lithe impression that is both balanced and texturally very nice indeed. There is tannin but it is little more than an anecdote, and a perfect acidity that supports medium-plus length flavours. I could almost guess Chambolle! Just a very, very pretty wine indeed – I have a few more bottles, but I really wish I’d pushed the boat out a little more. Lovely!
Rebuy – Yes

I cannot lie, these days I’m having a bit of a love-hate relationship with dissolved CO₂ in young wines – I can only love the wines when it’s gone – before I hate them…!

2009 Maison Ambroise, Bourgogne
I like the screw-cap – it’s quick and easy – there, the wine is already in my glass. I have to say, don’t like the smell though; there’s the toasty oak of Bordeaux – or Pousse d’Or – and the CO₂ backed sweetness makes me think of well-known carbonated beverages, not wine – all I can say is, at least it’s not reduced! The advantage of a screw-cap, though, is that you don’t have to get your finger wet: put the cap back on and shake for all your worth! After half an hour, this is real wine, and not oaky wine either; there’s a friendly red cherry and a hint of herb too – actually it’s quite nice now the oak smell has left us. In the mouth the overall stance has a decent focus, more than adequate concentration (for the label) and the balance is fine. There are no wines from Ambroise in my cellar, and that’s down to my perception of their oak, but once it fades, you are left with a very successful wine, I really rather liked it!!!
Rebuy – Yes

Tonight it’s a Beaune Grèves from 1985. It is round, sweet and nicely textured. There is not that much excitement, but not that much to complain about either. For (too) many, 1985 in a glass…

2011 Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The first few minutes after opening, this wine offers up plenty of toasty bread, but slowly this fades to leave you with a fainter vanilla and a nice clean 2010-style nose that hints of soap and a little ginger. There’s a pleasant freshness to this wine, it doesn’t offer a laser-like focus, but the acidity is decent enough and the flavour wraps nicely around your tongue. It’s very ‘easy’ wine in that 2011 vernacular and I suspect that a few 2010 Bourgognes might give it a run for its money, but that said, it was a wine that was easily enjoyed and greedily consumed!
Rebuy – Yes

In well-regarded vintages, the wines of Thomas-Moillard were as hard as nails – the 99s are a case in point, where they will need the best part of (at least!) 10 more years before I would consider broaching more than a sample of their wares. Maybe in less auspicious vintages they chose to rotate their recumbent fermenters less, leaving behind just a little of the tannin in their pips and skins – maybe! But here is a decent enough 2000, yet a wine that is certainly built to last.

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
Medium-plus colour. Aromatically this is an instant hit – wild, exciting and with great depth – already after 10 minutes it’s a little more pedestrian, but what an opening! Time restores my interest as there are new aromas of leather and meat, but they are cleanly delivered aromas. The first sip reveals sweet fruit, super intensity and a leading-edge of acidity that is faintly sharp/metallic – this acidity softens quickly – you really wouldn’t notice after a few minutes. There is a grain to the tannin, but it has very little astringency, more of a fresh sensation in the finish. So a concentrated wine that delivers impact and interest, yet seems relatively structured, given the vintage – it is an old-styled meaty wine but still with some style – even these 2000s beg at least 10 more years in the cellar, and given my experience of some 1960s T-Ms, maybe a good deal more than that!
Rebuy – Yes