beaujolais – getting into the crus this week

By billn on February 14, 2018 #travels in burgundy 2018


 With obligatory shot of Mont Blanc, brilliantly visible on both Tuesday and Wednesday – this the best I could do with my 52 mm equivalent lens!

Fernand VerpoixA super first three days in Beaujolais this week. Of-course the weather has been alternately grey, then sunny, and then erupts with storms of snow – snowflakes bigger than a €2 coin – though it doesn’t stick around for too long – despite -4°C on Tuesday morning!

Of-course I was very sorry to hear yesterday of the death of Fernand Verpoix – pictured with his wife to the right in their Chapelle du Bois vineyard. He died just a little over two weeks ago, well into his 80s. I hadn’t planned to visit Fernand this year (I tasted his 2014s and 2015s and still have one or two bottles at home) because last year he told me that he was the only vigneron in Fleurie to declare no yield in 2016 because of the hail – 2017 wouldn’t have been much better for him. He was such a lovely man – I hope that his son and daughter find enough time to continue the domaine – all his equipment looked brand new – let’s see…

The week started with a little Morgon, moved to Brouilly and then filled a day and half in Fleurie. There’s more to come in Chénas, Juliénas and more Morgon on Thursday before I head back to Switzerland – then that’s already two of my three weeks here finished.

Here are a few views collected so far this week:
 

week 6 2018 – my weekend wines

By billn on February 13, 2018 #degustation

A great start and middle, then…
​
2012 Le Grappin, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Hmm – high tones, dark fruit and a fine width of aroma. This wine fills the mouth with freshness and dark sour cherry fruit – it’s mouth-wateringly delicious and that’s before it adds another creamy dimension in the mid and finishing flavours. Pure, intense, fine textured and getting better and better with aeration – absolutely delicious. 2-3 years really add an extra something to Mr Neilson’s wines!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Chateau Thivin, Brouilly Reverdon
Such a deep colour after the Savigny. A deep, dark, fresh mineral impression to the nose – very inviting. Fresh, a depth of earthy cherry flavour that’s both direct and beautifully textured. Such a delicious baby wine!
Rebuy – Yes

1990 Michel Juillot, Corton-Perrières
The cork comes out relatively easily – therein the problem – this pale coloured wine was completely oxidised. Poured away…

​ week 5 2018 – my weekend wines

By billn on February 05, 2018 #degustation

Sneakily extending this year’s ‘Cremant January’ into February.

Gilles et Romain Collet, Cremant de Bourgogne
Of-course, ‘Cremant de Chablis’ with wine from the 2015 vintage.
Like the recent wine of Clothilde Davenne, a simply delicious nose of ripe mirabelles – but still with freshness and deliciousness. Loved this.
Rebuy – Yes

Louis Bouillot, Cremant de Bourgogne Extra Brut – Limited Edition
Deeper golden. Oh – now we are talking! A much finer bubble and already suaveness too – this could be an expensive wine from another place. Extra Brut but not a hint of sharpness – if anything this delivers its flavour in a very composed and fine style. Truly great cremant – fine and not a hint of oxidative notes.
Rebuy – Yes

​2016 Jean-Claude Ramonet, Mâcon-Péronne
A nose of chalky fruit, faint spearmint – this is so very inviting. Oh this is lovely in the mouth too! Flinty minerality, accented with citrus, and just a hint of barrel cushioning. Fresh and sooo delicious. Great Mâcon – even if it comes out of Chassagne!
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Pousse d’Or, Santenay 1er Clos Tavannes
Right from opening a clarity and brilliance of aroma – clean as a mature nose can be – but so rarely is – brown sugar, red fruit, almost a little pomegranate and fresh leaves. Fresh, direct, flavour that reflects the nose, only slowly widening as it flavours melt over the palate. Stable, delicious, great mature wine – bravo!
Rebuy – No Chance!

2005 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Deep colour. This is rather a compact nose, underpinned with an attractive purity of raspberry conserve. Intense, relatively direct, but with great texture for such impressive concentration. Yet… This is a little workmanlike; I expect much more from this combination of cuvée/vintage. Perhaps a little cork scalping here? – there’s a suggestion of herb in the mid-palate. This is still, more than good wine, but I had higher expectations…
ReBuy – Maybe

offer of the day – robert groffier 2016

By billn on February 02, 2018 #the market

The prices for the 2015s, offered last year, are included for reference, in the brackets:

Domaine Robert Groffier

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2016 75cl 39.50 (38.00) (Swiss Francs*)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées 2016 75cl 89.00 (79.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 2016 75cl 159.00 (146.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2016 75cl 179.00 (158.00)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2016 75cl 399.00 (349.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2015 75cl 399.00 (349.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2016 75cl not offered (378.00)

First of all, I realise that yields in Chambolle were very low due to the frost, but these remain in my (old fuddy-duddy) mind, fantasy pricing. Yet I realise that whilst that is the common reaction for people who have been buying burgundy for 20+ years, for the new generation of buyers, they are the only prices that they know, and as one producer told me this year – ‘The higher I raise my prices, the more is the demand!‘

*There is an additional 8% Swiss sales tax to add to these prices, but there are no additional delivery costs.

today I will mainly be doing gevrey…

By billn on February 01, 2018 #travels in burgundy 2018

Highly variable weather today and a drop in temperature of more the 5°C – it’s damn cold in the wind now. The forecast is ‘maybe’ snow – the vignerons aren’t particularly excited by that – but they are very happy to see that there might be a few days with overnight temperatures as low as -6°C – they are happy about that! NIce to see that Faiveley have finished renovating the house in Les Issarts – it just needs an occupier now!
 

yesterday in gevrey, chambolle, morey – and venezuela (probably)

By billn on February 01, 2018 #travels in burgundy 2018

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