a beaujolais harvest update…

By billn on August 14, 2017 #vintage 2017


Saint Amour, 24 July 2017.

(Translated) From Inter Beaujolais:
Ripening takes its course in the vineyards of Beaujolais: On average we are 15 days ahead of the maturity progress in 2016 – veraison (grapes changing colour) appears to be closer to early vintages such as 2007, 2009, 2011 and 2015.

Overall, the sunny and dry weather since the Spring has both pushed the development in the vineyards and helped keep a remarkably good health, such that fewer treatments have been needed this year. There is some ‘water stress’ due to lack of rain, which will be a volume-limiting factor in many sectors. If we add to this the impact of hail in northern Beaujolais, we are heading towards an average volume harvest.

July has been very dry, leaving small berries, which provides hope for a good concentration of juice and phenolic materials.

great offer today…

By billn on August 12, 2017 #the market

I don’t, as a rule, give names and links to offers, because it’s a little ‘too’ commercial for this site, I prefer to give market indications without naming the merchants, but this is simply a great offer:

I really rated this Clos Vougeot in my vintage write-up chez Prieur, and this is a throwback to pre-2005 prices! Of-course those are Swiss francs and you have to live in Switzerland, probably…

mid-week, back in the saddle

By billn on August 11, 2017 #degustation


Getting back into the swing of things:

2015 Louis Max, Rully Les Plantenays
Well, there’s something of creme brulee nose here – attractive, yet I’m now anticipating plenty of oak. The palate retains a freshness and deliciousness, despite some padding – an oak augmentation to plenty of lemony action. Super in its oaked vernacular which means that I don’t think I’d want to take two glasses in a row, but I’m very happy with the one!
Rebuy – No

2010 Raveneau, Chablis 1er Butteaux
Not really stony like the the 2012, rather the nose has a cushioned depth of fresh lemon. The attack is the first impression, backed-up by a richness and silkiness of texture and concentration – hand in hand. The mid-palate just melts over your tongue in absolutely delicious fashion. Certainly mineral and beautifully proportioned in the finish. Magnificent 1er cru…
Rebuy – Yes

1993 Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
I don’t know many bottled Boucherottes – I’ve seen this, there’s Le Grappin and (I think) AF Gros, and…
A good, strong cork despite being quite wine-soaked. Good colour – ie plenty of depth but no browning. The nose is tarry, slowly adding floral components, before slowly adding deeper, dark fruit references. The palate is, likewise, a tarry affair but with fine dark cherry fruit. The complexion is fresh, with a growing intensity but is also very silky. Truth be told, this is still a very young wine, but I’ve no problem refreshing the glass. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

today’s walk in chablis

By billn on August 10, 2017 #travels in burgundy 2017#vintage 2017


Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, 10th August 2017 – after the rain.

Due to the rain, it was a modest tour in the muddy grand crus of Chablis. I would say a rather meagre looking quantity of fruit on the vines if compared to the Côte de Beaune, but like in the Côte d’Or, no obvious signs of rot, et-cetera…

Oh, and did I mention the temperature? 13°C at 3 in the afternoon – brrr… Back to 30° on Monday, says google weather…
 

touring the vines in the côte de beaune

By billn on August 09, 2017 #travels in burgundy 2017#vintage 2017

Starting in Beaune, finishing with coffee in Puligny. We started in sunshine, ending with threatening, dark cloud – still a little muggy but dry.

Here in the Côte de Beaune we are 3-4 weeks from harvesting and there looks to be plenty of grapes on the vines – in good shape too – there is a little loss due to sunburn, but I saw neither oïdium, nor rot. The grape clusters are all of varying colours and sweetness for now – or sourness – it depends how you want to look at it 🙂

Fingers crossed!
 

ta-da…..

By billn on August 09, 2017 #travel#travel pics

Ta-da! Back from 8 days on the island of Sicily.

It’s relatively easy to summarise the time – lots of chilling despite 38°C – sometimes more.

What we liked (usually a lot):

  • The people
  • The food
  • The landscape
  • The (nero d’avola) wine – €13-20 in a restaurant…
  • Cefalu
  • Siracusa – actually the ‘island’ of Ortigia – it’s connected by a couple of bridges. My favourite!
  • Our hotel
  • Warm brioche with ice-cream!
  • 2 espressi for €1.80!

What we didn’t like:

  • The litter
  • The litter
  • The litter
  • The litter…

Now back to Beaune – later today a wander in the vines to see how things look – there will be harvesting in 3 weeks!
 

weekend wines – week 30 2017

By billn on July 31, 2017 #degustation

2012 Raveneau, Chablis 1er Butteaux
I was lucky enough to drink the 2010 of this at Au Fils Du Zinc. in Chablis, last month, and it was open, ready and fabulous. This wine is also fabulous, but it’s a long-way away from being ‘ready.’ The nose is all rocks and citrus – it’s a great invitation to drink. The palate has a tight minerality but from the end of the mid-palate into the finish it opens out and the flavours hold tenaciously. Not yet delicious, but certainly tasty and rather compelling and moreish too. Super stuff – but wait 3-5 years while drinking the 2010 – if you are so lucky!
Rebuy – Yes

2004 Pierre Bourée, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The cork is soaked right through but manages not to break in half – I expect because it slides out so easily – probably best that this bottle was now opened, given this cork. Quite a deep colour, the nose starts with an overt pyrazine, but shaded differently to when young. Slowly but surely there’s a nice, slightly plummy, but still fresh, dark fruit on the nose – it’s an intriguing nose and quite inviting at the same tine. Supple, silky entry, a slowly growing grain of tannin into the mid-palate and finish. That minerally pyrazine note is more forward on the palate than on the nose, making the finish just a little bitter. I couldn’t for a moment describe this as delicious, but am happy to stay with intriguing. Overall, complex, interesting, and I would say starting to drink – certainly it’s a much easier drink now than when it was young!
Rebuy – No

a few wines chez domaine tortochot

By billn on July 28, 2017 #degustation

I visited chez Tortochot in June, but putting everything together for my June report I see that there isn’t really enough content for its own published page – so here you go. Chantal wasn’t at the domaine so Beatrice took us through a couple of 16s in barrel then a small but perfectly formed group of 2015s.

Beatrice on 2016:It’s a good vintage, the grapes were good when harvested, though it was a modest quantity – we lost 40%. But the wines show volume, intensity and energy.

So two 2016 from barrel for a quick look, first up Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champerrier Vieilles-Vignes (the oldest vines of the domaine – from 1920) which showed faint reduction and faint malo – normally this is bottled in November. Next came their Mazis-Chambertin from a 0.4 hectare plot, a wine which was equally unwilling to be tasted but did show a little extra salinity.

Then some 2015s:
35% yield-loss here in this vintage as the grapes were small – so not much juice.

2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées
Nearly 0.9 hectares worth owned by the domaine.
A little peppery red fruit aroma. Beautiful shape and fine texture, waves of red flavour. There’s a little tannic spice and texture as you reach the finish. But super.

2015 Morey St. Denis 1er Cuvée Renaissance
From two parcels totalling about 0.46 hectares – usually a lighter cuvée here as the vines are from the Chambolle side of the appellation; Clos Baulet and the Clos des Ormes
Modest colour. It’s a modest nose too. Redder fruit style with a good and growing intensity. Relatively tannic, but a wine that belies its colour for sure. The nose slowly expanding in the glass.

2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Champeaux
From a little over 0.8 hectares of east-facing vines.
Deeper colour. Here is a fine and intense red fruit with a little spice too. Lots of volume in the mouth, lots of energy too – a super intensity showing waves of finishing flavour. This is a baby – wait 3 years – but there’s super purity of fruit here. Excellent…

Burgundy Report

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