week 8 2018 – weekend wines

By billn on February 26, 2018 #degustation

Friday night with some of the Commanderie de Calgary saw 2x 2015 whites and a 2014 red. My short recollections are that we started with a Lamy St.Aubin 1er Clos de la Chatenière which was taut and fine – very lovely wine. The second was Alex Gambal’s St.Aubin 1er Mugers des Dents du Chien which was softer and much more open – tasty but definitely lacking the tension of the Lamy – villages level by comparison. The 2014 red was Tollot-Beaut’s Aloxe-Corton – a wine that was modest in almost all directions yet, again, tasty enough.

Then kicking off with two from Beaujolais:
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2014 Lafarge-Vial, Fleurie Clos Vernay
The nose is a little narrow and showing plenty of herb and pyrazine. The palate is, likewise, quite pinched and a little meagre today – this wine has really shrunk in size in the last couple of years – I’d say don’t touch one for at least another three years – now, clearly, isn’t the time. I checked, and the pyrazine is consistent.
Rebuy – No

2011 Julien Sunier, Régnié
More volume and width of aroma – darker fruited, with that slight lactic impression that low sulfur wines exhibit. In the mouth there’s much more volume and complexity of flavour – layered in delivery – with great length too. This is still a young wine but much more open, concentrated and ‘giving’ today. Everyone’s favourite from these two. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Trimbach, Riesling
It seemed a good idea for our Thai red curry!
A narrow but deep and fresh nose. The palate is direct and much more acid-driven than I anticipated in this warm vintage. Fresh, but incisive, not sharp. A great choice for our dish and the whole bottle was finished. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2007 Michele et Patrice Rion, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Today this is one of the best addresses in Burgundy, and largely because the use of oak is much more sympathetic today than it once was…
A little vanilla on the nose – even at 10 years old. Very slowly the nose widens with a diffuse but quite appealing red berry-fruit. Plenty of volume in the mouth and the sweet, roundness and complexity of vanilla-tinged fruit. It’s delicious, but whilst I’ll happily eat a whole tub of vanilla ice-cream – without outside assistance(!) – you already know that I’m less of a fan of finding it in my wine – at least when I’m expecting some maturity. Very tasty but… On day two, the last third was virtually vanilla-free – maybe there is still some hope (for me)…
Rebuy – Maybe

new maps & saturday afternoon in the meursault sunshine

By billn on February 25, 2018 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!#travels in burgundy 2018

I love these maps – and now there are even more of them!

To the right you can see the new ‘wider picture’ maps in the Beaujolais series, which now means that it’s a set of 19(!) – and they are all now in my greedy hands! This set now comes in a much more user-friendly A3 size – as opposed to the more cumbersome A2 (roughly) versions that were previously available – so now they will be much less expensive to frame. Actually, they are the perfect size for laminating and using as place-mats – though that means that I’d have to find 19 ‘friends!‘

[Edit] And you can actually buy them here.

The Siberian cold isn’t quite in the Côtes yet, but the wind still has some chill to it – we bumped into Dominique Lafon in Beaune’s market on Saturday and I asked him if he was happy with the cold snap, he answered “For the vines yes, but I’m damn cold – I’ve got a hat in my jacket pocket, that I should be wearing, but my girlfriend doesn’t like the look of it – so there you go!” Haha!

Anyway in the afternoon we took a walk around the hillside of Tessons (plus, plus) with its views towards the town of Meursault – I liked the light so took far too many very similar pictures! Enjoy!
 

pics from tuesday and wednesday…

By billn on February 21, 2018 #travels in burgundy 2018

I might have posted a few more images this week, but with the ‘state’ of the wifi in my hotel, this post actually required 2 hours to engineer – so you may, or may not see anything more before Friday – let’s see how patient I can be!

Anyway, the light has been good this week, but each day it’s cooler and cooler. Today’s start with 0°C would be nothing if it weren’t for the cutting wind – but the forecast says than the region will get colder still, closer to -10°C by the middle of next week. I suppose my little red fingers might get to take a few properly frosted pics before I head to Beaune on Friday afternoon!
 

week 7 2018 – my weekend wines

By billn on February 20, 2018 #degustation

I got home from Beaujolais late on Thursday. On Friday we went to meet with friends who stay in Mürren for a few days each year. I havent skied for nearly 3 years, and given Friday’s rain at 1,600 meters, not to mention the slushy snow and poor visibility, Friday definitely wasn’t going to be my much anticipated return! Still, it’s always good to meet up with friends, and the first wine, the Santenay, we drank in the resort on together on Friday evening. Saturday and Sunday we were at home, as usual, before I left, once-more, for Beaujolais early on Monday morning.

2010 Capuano-Ferreri, Santenay 1er La Comme
I’ve never come across this producer before.
A rather round nose, edged with a little vanilla. Similar in the mouth, glossy, a little fat to the texture – some sweetness of fruit. The flavours are a little oaked here too. A round wine, nothing exceptional or worth a search – but quite okay.
Rebuy – No

2016 Marcel Lapierre, Morgon Cuvée MMXVI
This is the cuvée without sulfur – you can have with or without…
Ooh – what a deep and interesting nose – wide too, practically cushioned, textured dark fruit. This is really a mouth-filler, round and powerful with beautiful texture. Melting, mouth-watering, approachable flavour – simply a wow wine. Bravo.
Rebuy – Yes

2007 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
The last vintage with cork seals.
A hint of toasty reduction and lots of sous-bois, dried leaves and even a hint of mushroom. All those things visible on the palate too – but frankly, despite a little attractive sweetness of flavour, this wine is a pale shadow of the Lapierre which it follows – now that’s a turn-up! This wine needs at least 2 hours of aeration, after which the nose is open, supple and sweetly fruited. Likewise the palate fills out, adds depth of flavour – there’s lots of sweet fruit now – and frankly the last two glasses are absolutely delicious. Not better than the Lapierre, but really super wine all the same.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 David Clark, Côte de Nuits Villages
Perhaps a bottle too far – but we needed another glass. Like how the Griotte started after the Lapierre, this was a pale shadow of the last glass of the Griotte (as it should be!). The nose had good volume and shape, though its sweetness was certainly augmented by a little barrel vanilla. In the mouth, relatively modest but clean (apart from the oak) and sweet flavours. Probably better than the Santenay, but whilst still young, it was well behind in third place from these last three bottles.
Rebuy – Maybe
 

The January 2018 Burgundy Report is now online – Chablis 2016

By billn on February 19, 2018 #reports

Chablis 2016 Report – now online for subscribers – Here!

Sixty domaines and almost 540 wines tasted – then there is the bonus of a look at the 2016s from an extra seven Côte d’Or domains, with an additional 60+ wines tasted.

If you are not a subscriber and would like to see what might be included, then check my report on the 2014 Chablis Vintage – published 2 years ago. All my Burgundy Reports are free to view after 2 years, so see what you might be missing!

offer of the day – william fevre 2016

By billn on February 17, 2018 #the market

Hot from my inbox from a Swiss importer. The prices of the 2015s are in brackets for you to compare:

CHABLIS WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS 2016
CHABLIS Village 75cl 22.00 (19.00) Swiss Francs*
PREMIERS CRUS – DOMAINE
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 75cl 45.00 (42.00)
GRANDS CRUS – DOMAINE
CHABLIS Preuses 75cl 75.00 (65.00)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 75cl 79.00 (65.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 75cl 89.00 (75.00)

Quite large jumps versus last year, but Les Clos was one of the best wines of my whole tour of 60 domaines in January…
*The prices are ‘delivered’ but will attract another 8% Swiss tax

Burgundy Report

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