freddy mugnier’s 1999 chambolle

By billn on July 13, 2017 #degustation

1999 Domaine Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny
There was a time where I thought that half-bottles were useful for the cellar – a short-lived time, it must be said – and I bought a dozen of these halves. The first one or two were good, the rest were a disappointment. This is number 7, and it’s really the first for years that I’m actually enjoying. The nose has a silky feel and maybe a faint undertow of brett – but a long way from being overt or off-putting. In the mouth there’s good weight and plenty of pretty – if not yet delicious – flavour. I wine that’s pretty easy to drink and that’s always a good sign. Good wine, and one that’s perhaps turned the corner into something of much, much more interest.
Rebuy – Maybe

so, are you eminent – or altogether grander?

By billn on July 12, 2017 #the market

Two new classifications for Burgundy’s Crémant de Bourgogne producers:

The producers of Burgundy’s sparklers now account for at least 10% of all burgundy production, and they now have two new ‘top-level’ wine segmentations at their disposal:

  1. Crémant Eminent
    Which must be a wine with at least 24 months of aging
  2. Crémant Grand Eminent
    Which must have at least 36 months of aging, but also must be made exclusively from the first press of either pinot noir or chardonnay (and I assume blends thereof.)

The overseeing of these labels is to be done by an ‘independent body’ – whatever that means. Do we need more new labels? Well of-course not, but it should keep the marketing departments occupied for a few more months…

hail – the part deux (côte d’or) update

By billn on July 12, 2017 #vintage 2017

I waited a little to post info on hail in the Côte de Nuits – emotion can cloud first judgement and some people who initially estimated parcels with 40% damage now think much less…

The biggest impact remains the crus of Beaujolais – and the central corridor of that hailstorm will yield zero grapes. The hillside of Viré was also hit, but seemingly the rest of the Mâconnais was fine. In the Côte d’Or, it was the Côte de Nuits that caught the hail on Monday afternoon – coinciding with the first veraison (grapes changing colour.) Jeremy Seysses posted that the upper part of Clos St.Denis, Clos de la Roche and Monts Luisants in Morey St.Denis had been hit by hail – he currently estimates that higher on the slopes was more affected, where maybe 25% is damaged. It seems that the damage in Morey was mainly the northern side of the village, as Jacques Devauges of Clos du Tart reports “Yes, we had some hail on Monday the 10th, but not much. The grapes are still nice.

You can see the storm below in a video by Domaine Philippe Rossignol in Gevrey – this was taken on the hillside between Gevrey and Brochon. He notes that vines have been lightly damaged between Marsannay-la-Côte and Couchey. It’s amazing that the damage was light when you see this.

“We had about 3 hectares hit in the northern part of Gevrey; Les Jeunes Rois and Gevrey 1er cru Les Champeaux: Also in Morey Village; Morey 1er cru Aux Charmes was hit about 25%. We hope that there’s no more hail as we need to bring in a good harvest.”
Chantal Michel of Domaine Tortochot in Gevrey

Cyril Audoin notes that in Marsannay, the Clos de Jeu, Champ Salomon and Les Favières have been ‘touched.’ He also says that there were some impacts in Les Longeroies but none in the Clos du Roy. And for another view:

“We did have a little damage in the vineyards, but it’s inconsistent. We still plan to do a green harvest, on one hand to limit the harvest, one the other hand (now!) to remove the damaged grapes affected by hail – so to avoid the potential of rot.”
Isabelle Colotte of Domaine Colotte in Marsannay

The Côte de Beaune avoided the hail.

And lest we forget the epicentre in Beaujolais, the following is courtesy the Château du Moulin-à-Vent:

a heavy hail episode, yesterday, in the beaujolais crus…

By billn on July 11, 2017 #vintage 2017

A violent episode of hail crossed the northern Beaujolais vineyards just before 5pm yesterday.

From Beaujeu to Moulin-à-Vent, the corridor is almost identical to that of 2016. The area concerned is large but to varying degrees according to the zones: the north of Lantignié, Régnié (to a lesser extent), Morgon (Charmes and Corcelette mainly), Chiroubles (Grille Midi especially). Fleurie (Le Bourg, Les Quatre Vents, Champagne …) seem to be the most impacted appellations. Chénas and Moulin-à-vent are also affected.

The hailstones were not large (certainly the result of using the diffusers), but the storm was associated with mini wind tornadoes that caused a real “sanding” of some vines.

In the next few days should make it possible to make a more precise assessment of the area of vines concerned and the degree of impact on the future harvest.
From Interbeaujolais this lunchtime

week 27 2017 – weekend wines – must try harder…

By billn on July 11, 2017 #degustation

This weekend was definitely a ‘must try harder‘ weekend…

2015 Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Tonnerre Le Clos du Chateau
The 2014 of this was a match for 95% of Chablis 1er crus – taught, mineral but absolutely deliciously intense wine – and all for about €9. The 2015 isn’t really like that – there is concentration, certainly enough weight of flavour, but rather like the 2015 Vaillons of Long-Depaquit, tasted a couple of weeks ago, this simply lacks a little deliciousness. Perhaps it will improve with time, but today it’s a realtively easy pass…
Rebuy – No

1996 Jean-Claude Belland, Chambertin
Last time out – already 10 years ago – this was young and delicious – today no-longer. Of-course every bottle will be different, but this showed a pretty unpleasantly bretty nose. The palate has weight – indeed poise – fine balance and layers of flavour. The flavours showed a little less of the brett – but a wine with a poor nose is a wine that ultimately you can’t rescue – that was the case here. Given that it was Chambertin, I persevered with a second glass – indeed a third on the next day – but it wasn’t to be…
Rebuy – No

2012 Le Grappin, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Fresh, herby, bright red fruit. The palate is fresh and open with a bright personality. Despite the faint green tinge – like fresh mint on strawberries – this was delicious. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

rootstock pommard

By billn on July 10, 2017 #diary dates

Rootstock‘ happened at the Château de Pommard this weekend.

Rootstock – Woodstock? Well, why not…

Of the two days possible to visit, we chose the Saturday to attend – it was hot despite plenty of cloud-cover – storms were forecast, but the weather-gods deemed that the storm should arrive only around 23h30 – I think the organisors would have accepted that. Sunday morning it was still showery-wet – we were under-way to Switzerland about midday – hopefully the weather improved for Rootstock’s Sunday-session – ‘acts’ having a start-time of 14h30.

Bus-shuttles were being run from a couple of places in Beaune – but I was too stupid to find the timetable, so I drove. For a first attempt, I would say that there were enough people there on the Saturday to bring some atmosphere for both the performers and attendees. Two favourites for me were a neo-Franzosich Ed Sheeran on the ‘acoustic stage’ and the pint-sized but brilliant Nina Attal on the main stage.

There were Champagne bars, cocktail bars, bar-bars, small bijou-food bars, ice-cream bars – the place just lacked a decent plate-full-of-food – bar so we left after about 4 hours – a little after 8pm – but hungry.

Good organisation and hopefully sufficiently well-recieved that they might do it again next year!
 

hot stuff – a 2017 vintage update…

By billn on July 07, 2017 #vintage 2017

As the Tour de France reaches Nuits St.Georges today, this week’s weather has recovered from the cooler wet days at the end of last week – the latter part of the week has simmered at 35°C. But there are big regional differences – last weekend Beaune received about 95 mm of rain – much needed rain – but depending on where you were in Beaujolais you may have seen between 1 and 10 mm. There are storms forecast for the weekend too

The vines are surging forward – it’s currently highly likely that the Côte d’Or will be harvesting closer to the beginning of September – more like 90 days from flowering, whereas in Beaujolais they are already starting to pencil-in dates from the 25th August! Even Chablis where they had over 10 days of frost at the end of April is forecasting an early harvest – though the frosted vines are of-course a little behind. Yields are currently looking ‘good’ – Chablis excepted – and given the lack of wine in cellars, that would be a logistical boon, but clearly might have repercussions for the pricing of 2016s. Let’s see, according to the BIVB:

In the north of the Bourgogne winegrowing region, in the Chablis and Grand Auxerrois, growth is comparable with the 2011 and 2003 vintages. For the Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits and the Hautes-Côtes, it is more like 2007 and 2009, when the harvest began at the end of August or in early September. The Côte Chalonnaise should also begin harvesting around that time. As for the Mâconnais, 2017 is a week ahead of the average for the last 10 years, and 18 days ahead compared to 2016.

The grape clusters are closing up and I’ve even seen the first pictures of some colour-change – veraison. The vineyards are currently very clean – no mildew, and so-far very little sign of oïdium. Oïdium from infection to blooming needs 40 days – so so the vignerons think that if they’ve seen nothing in the next 10 days, then they will have avoided that too. In the vines maybe there are a few last treatments of sulfur and copper – but apart from a tight ‘haircut’ to tidy the vines, the only work is preparing for the harvest – oh and the vigneron(ne)s holidays!

This week I’ve been enjoying the beautiful blue skies of the Côtes – and finding my iPhone a decent-enough replacement for my camera! Yesterday was a big tasting in Beaujolais – lots and lots of St.Amour – next week I’ll be visiting the selected producers.

Only one mid-week wine – a half of 1996 Grivot Nuits Lavières. The first sip was a little sharp, but à table with the home-made burgers it was very nicely balanced. Definitely a durable wine and of interest and fine texture too, but any pretense of ‘deliciousness’ departed the scene at least 15 years ago!
 

cave prestige 2017

By billn on July 06, 2017 #annual laurels

Each year the BIVB hold a number of large tastings – this year 1,130 samples were presented and were split:

Regional – 31%
Villages – 41%
Premiers – 23%
Grands Crus – 5%

The wines were supplied by domaines 84%, négoce 13% and cooperatives 3%

Of those, the BIVB selected 195 wines to represent ‘Burgundy’ at tastings all around the world – this is their annual Cave Prestige.

You can download the list of all those wines here.

week 26 – weekend wines – a triple jadot

By billn on July 04, 2017 #degustation

Digging around in the cellar, I first thought that this was my case containing a mix of Jadot’s 98/99 Beaune Grèves – often seen in this diary in the last years – but out of the corner of my eye, I though – hmm, that’s not a Grèves! Judging by the labels, both the Rugiens and the Suchots were bought in bulk/barrel. The Clos de la Barre is all Jadot, despite it not saying ‘Domaine’ on the label.

1999 Louis Jadot, Volnay 1er Clos de la Barre
A beautiful long cork that glides out with just the right amount of pull.
A fresh, mulled red fruit with faint sous-bois and herb – compelling stuff. Weighty, supple, still with tannin – it’s a young finishing structure but a wine that is very giving – there’s just enough sweetness and cushioning ‘fat’ to be very moreish. A fine and expanding wave of finishing flavour too. Excellent and certainly with a decent level of maturity.
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Louis Jadot, Pommard 1er Rugiens
Just a rubbish cork – it split in two and the rest comes out in tiny pieces. Despite that Jadot have domaine Rugiens, this shows that they are in the market to buy wine too.
Ooh – no lasting problem from the cork – just an iron-heavy, bloody redness of aroma – ooh – that is sooo good! This shows a similar freshness to the Barre, narrower, less fat but more intensity and line – young but multi-dimensional. Long, staining flavour – absolutely brilliant but despite a fine floral element to the flavour this is really too young – the extra fatness of the Barre making that wine much more approachable today – but Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
This time another great cork – at least as good as the one from the Volnay…
Here the nose, whilst open, shows a little less power and volume than the first two wines, but it is both composed and still very impressive – and maybe if you search hard enough, you can probably convince yourself that there’s a little Vosne-spice here too – i.e. there probably isn’t! I love the fact that all three wines have completely different shapes in the mouth; the Volnay was round with a little fat for comfort, the Pommard was more linear and muscular, and here we have a wine with super width – almost a wave of flavour that flows over the palate. Here the flavour impression is one of some maturity and – yes – spiciness of complex fruit. This plays beautifully over the palate, and of the three I would say it is currently the most ‘ready’ – whatever that means. Super wine!
Rebuy – Yes

I’d say that that was a good weekend – and there were 2 of each in the case – so maybe I shall wait 2 more years and drink the ‘poor orphans’ when they are 20 – or maybe not – if I find them again 🙂

Burgundy Report

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