The next in a quartet wines from 1986 that I’ll try in the next week or so – they are interesting because I really don’t know the vintage – for instance Lamarche was hardly at the peak of their reputation at this time:

1986 François Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
I guess it has been stored almost inverted as there is such a thick layer of brown mud (sediment) attached to the base of the cork. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is understated but clean, a tight core of macerated and ripe fruit at its centre. This seems to have an almost grand cru level of fat, understated acidity and a rasp to the tannin – though not as astringent as yesterday’s Mazis. Like the nose, the flavours are clean but tight – this wine has some class, but is clearly going to make me wait if I want complexity. Even at the three hour stage the nose is a glossy but understated thing, perhaps a faint beefy depth begins to show. The palate develops a liqueur quality with a very faint suggestion of oxidation. Overall this drinks very well indeed.
Rebuy – Yes

Hardly a star performer and for years, this case of half bottles from auction could have been a monumental faux pas. Yet bottle number one was quite tasty – if not something to get carried away about. Interesting that the latest labels of the domaine have defected to the ‘Mazy’ spelling camp…

1986 Henri Rebourseau, Mazis-Chambertin
Medium mahogany red. The nose has a hint of leaf but also the warm, slightly sweet aromas of age – it seems quite clean. Still some astringency to what was probably quite under-ripe tannin in its youth and a hesitant sweetness to the fruit – though I have the impression it didn’t give up much sweetness for a lot of years. Grand Cru? Hard to tell, I’ll just say it’s an interesting, clean, fresh and drinkable bottle, it’s not a faux-pas.
Rebuy – Maybe

Anyway, to finish, this is good (short) article from the Wall Street Journal, and what a great idea for a tasting!

1999 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Medium, medium plus colour. The nose starts with a waft of dark, dank, slightly reduced, earthy toast that fades to be replaced with a slowly building crescendo of dark and impressive cherry fruit. Good, perhaps slightly lifted acidity abets the mid-palate intensity and length. The fruit in the mid-palate has a nice high-toned impression and the lingering note of the finish is stony/mineral. Acid-o-philes will like this a lot, I did!
Rebuy – Yes

Clearly this wine didn’t meet expectation. But another half bottle plucked from the cellar tonight shows no beef, no brett and certainly no volatile acidity – hooray!

Clearly given the last bottle’s performance I shouldn’t consider leaving them forever, but this was young, bright and pretty.

Music – I don’t think I ever said much about music – it’s just too personal isn’t it(?) Yet, whether Peter and the Wolf, Peter Gabriel or Peter, Paul & Mary, music can inflame the emotions more than a 100 point sip (joke). For about a week now I’ve been inseperable from this. The first three minutes is a brilliant rendering (rending?) of a very old song, the last 90 seconds is heart-rending. This comes close too. Neither could be described as uplifting, but Gil – wherever you have been for the last years, welcome back…
(PS forget I ever mentioned Peter, Paul & Mary…)

1989 Louis Latour, Echézeaux
The bottle is a heavy one – statement bottles are not just the current bling. The capsule spins and the cork comes out in almost 3 pieces – fortunately none into the bottle. On pouring there’s quite a mahogany caste to this wine, but it looks to retain a nice core of of clear red colour in the glass. The nose starts quite understatedly, a little sweet musk, low-level turned leaves – perhaps there’s something to be said for flash pasteurisation in killing the brett. Slightly thick texture, the acidity starts with a slighly harsh edge but I’m impressed by the burst of energy and flavour in the mid-palate. If I’m honest the acidity adds a touch of austerity rather than delivering a mortal wound, though I’m not convinced enough to splash the cash for the meaining bottle. The last third is consumed on day two and if not perfect, it’s just a little softened with a chocolate depth and it lingers well. I’d rebuy on day two…
Rebuy – Maybe