Clearly this wine didn’t meet expectation. But another half bottle plucked from the cellar tonight shows no beef, no brett and certainly no volatile acidity – hooray!

Clearly given the last bottle’s performance I shouldn’t consider leaving them forever, but this was young, bright and pretty.

Music – I don’t think I ever said much about music – it’s just too personal isn’t it(?) Yet, whether Peter and the Wolf, Peter Gabriel or Peter, Paul & Mary, music can inflame the emotions more than a 100 point sip (joke). For about a week now I’ve been inseperable from this. The first three minutes is a brilliant rendering (rending?) of a very old song, the last 90 seconds is heart-rending. This comes close too. Neither could be described as uplifting, but Gil – wherever you have been for the last years, welcome back…
(PS forget I ever mentioned Peter, Paul & Mary…)

1989 Louis Latour, Echézeaux
The bottle is a heavy one – statement bottles are not just the current bling. The capsule spins and the cork comes out in almost 3 pieces – fortunately none into the bottle. On pouring there’s quite a mahogany caste to this wine, but it looks to retain a nice core of of clear red colour in the glass. The nose starts quite understatedly, a little sweet musk, low-level turned leaves – perhaps there’s something to be said for flash pasteurisation in killing the brett. Slightly thick texture, the acidity starts with a slighly harsh edge but I’m impressed by the burst of energy and flavour in the mid-palate. If I’m honest the acidity adds a touch of austerity rather than delivering a mortal wound, though I’m not convinced enough to splash the cash for the meaining bottle. The last third is consumed on day two and if not perfect, it’s just a little softened with a chocolate depth and it lingers well. I’d rebuy on day two…
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 l’Arlot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos des Fôrets St.Georges
The cork shows sign of some seepage. Medium-plus and quite young in colour. The nose is right from l’Arlot’s more gothic implementation of stems – it’s a bit harsh and imposing, not quite what I’d call perfume – there’s also a strong mineral element that veers towards, without ever quite matching, the vintage character of 2004. Aromatically it’s a mixed bag then. In the mouth it’s intense, brooding and shows very good acidity. The tannin only comes a little to the fore in the mid-palate and onwards. It’s also quite long finishing. There’s a little cohesion missing though the individual parts seem good – I don’t think I caught it on a good day….
Rebuy – Maybe

I decided to buy the last bottles at the shop before publishing this, shame there were only 2 left! If I were you I wouldn’t believe the winesearcher result for switzerland for the next few days 😉

This wine is not yet the ‘full package’, but in terms of aroma and texture, coupled to no flaws, this is easily the most compelling wine I’ve drunk at home so-far this year!

1999 Jean Raphet, Chambertin Clos de Bèze
Medium-plus colour. The nose is a precocious and heady mix of sweet dark red and black fruits covered by a heavy floral scent; what’s the word I’m looking for(?) – ah yes – Gorgeous! It becomes a pure beacon of blackcurrant as some other great 99s show. Silky smooth with a hint of fat – there is real executive texture here. No fireworks, this 99 is restrained and linear right the way into the mineral / fruit with a creamy undertow finish. Subtle but very, very long. Wow, where have you been all my life Jean Raphet(?) Despite how friendly it is, clearly the palate is just a little tight yet there is ample material here for the future – such a shame there were only 2 more.
Rebuy – Yes

2002 La Pousse d’Or, Volnay 1er Clos des 60 Ouvrées
Medium, medium-plus colour but quite an amber caste – I wonder how this has been stored. The fruit has a pronounced jammy aroma and some dried cranberry, eventually widening to give a dark cherry and some dark minerality at the core. Sweet in the mouth and there’s fine texture, too – the acidity has a slightly bitter prominence, but not enough to make you wince or regret the next sip. Actually it drinks very well. I have the feeling that it might have been stored at a high-ish temp at some stage during its lifetime, but it clearly survived the trip to all the way to the bottle-bank…
Rebuy – Yes