david clark 2006 bourgogne au pelson

By billn on April 18, 2010 #degustation

clark-au-pelson

Well, it’s not Musigny Vieilles Vignes, but it is very drinkable…

2006 David Clark, Bourgogne Au Pelson
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has dark flashes of oak, suggestions but never any hard evidence of reduction and a very nice brambly dark fruit. Intense, very good fruit and a good villages-level of depth and complexity. Mouth-watering modestly in the finish. David delivers another superb bourgogne. He confided in me that maybe his 2007s were not so exciting as his 06s or 08s – I’m quite content to pay to find out. Stunning bourgogne and even better that the BGO…

1997 de vogüé musigny vieilles vignes – yuk!

By billn on April 17, 2010 #degustation

97-musigny-vieilles-vignes

1997 Comte Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Do you ever find yourself trying to find an excuse to drink a corked wine? Initial cost of purchase may have had something to do with it. I have to say that for about 3 or 4 minutes I’d convinced myself that if I swirled the glass I could hardly smell it, and the taste wasn’t so bad, indeed it was very long for a corked bottle. I passed the glass to my wife who muttered something about me trying to poison her and she needed a beer to take the taste away – I was back, grounded. Very corked and very yuk.
Not Rated

2005 albert bichot nuits st.georges

By billn on April 16, 2010 #degustation

bichot-nuits

So what to do while watching all the visitors (5,450 during the day though only 3,600 unique…) pile into the Spring report. Something modest, but very tasty methinks…

2005 Albert Bichot, Nuits St.Georges
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour – it still looks a baby. The nose is a little tight but still manages to round-out the dark red fruits with herbs, faint spices and a suggestion of cream. Quite silky until the tannins give a little more bite in the mid-palate. A little fat remains, padding out the sugary dark red fruit on the palate. Excellent acidity and there’s an additional dimension of dark oak-led flavour in the mid-palate. Still drinking rather well, and if anything the bottle empties too soon. I could criticise and call it facile and ‘easy’ as it’s much too elegant for a Nuits(!) but there’s an underlying ‘oomph’ (perhaps ‘the typical depth of 2005’ would make me sound more like a pro!) that means I may have to buy a few more…
Rebuy – Yes

louis jadot 1999 beaune 1er les theurons

By billn on April 14, 2010 #degustation#site updates

Just a short not to say that the Spring 2010 Burgundy Report (already the 8th!) will be up-and-running tomorrow. Well in excess of 300 notes from real bottles, interspersed with stunning (i.e. not written by me!) articles – coming soon! 🙂

I have only one complaint related to this wine – why do Jadot say Theurons, when almost everybody-else say Teurons?! (walks away with Gallic shrug…)

1999 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Theurons
Medium, medium-plus colour – and quite young looking colour at that! The nose has minerality, tar and eventually candied red berries. Real intensity and mouth-watering acidity define the wine today, yet there is a hint of fat before the acidity takes over and dissuades you from chewing to inspect the tannin! Long, mineral flavours with and edge of sweetness. Drinkable but très young!
Rebuy – Yes

david clark 2006 en bollery bourgogne grand ordinaire

By billn on April 13, 2010 #degustation

clark-en-bollery

En Bollery is immediately opposite the Clos Vougeot in Flagey-Echézaux so only the road separates it from being a grand cru – yet it doesn’t even have a Bourgogne classification. The sections on either side of it, in Vougeot and Vosne are both classified as Bourgogne! What were the people in Flagey up to…?

2006 David Clark, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire En Bollery Pinot Noir
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has some reduction that takes an age to fade – in fact doesn’t completely – and a wide red cherry fruit, it’s rather fine. Some sweetness to the ripe fruit, a background of slightly astringent tannin, and good intensity too. The quality of this wine absolutely belies its lowly appellation, if not the actual position of the vines. It’s one of those wines that gets consumed all too quickly – excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

henri boillot 2001 corton-charlemagne

By billn on April 12, 2010 #degustation

henri-boillot-charlemagne

2001 Henri Boillot, Corton-Charlemagne
My last two bottles showed a hint of oxidation, so here’s the last one of six. Medium gold – it seemed lighter on pouring. The nose has no obvious oxidation, rather caramel and toffee over sweet fruit. Soft textured with understated acidity. Versus its youth there’s an understated intensity and equally understated – though long – finish with just a hint of gunflint. Just a youthful wine going through a tight phase. Given the track record in my cellar I won’t be rebuying, but this was a very nice bottle.
Rebuy – No

j-m boillot 1995 pommard 1er jarollières

By billn on April 10, 2010 #degustation

boillot-jarollieres

1995 Jean-Marc Boillot, Pommard 1er Les Jarollières
The last bottle of this didn’t show brilliantly, hopefully this does a little better. The colour has a much older, browner caste than I expect for a ’95. The aromas are not promising; quite beefy and hint bretty – I’m not really looking forward to putting it in my mouth! Some sweetness to the fruit, intensity too – it’s a rather macerated, spicy impression. The tannin is relatively understated and the acidity decently balanced. The texture has a reasonable soft and fat impression. Certainly much, much better than the last bottle or my I expectation given the nose. I’m thinking that there may be some slight bacterial spoilage here with this one. 10 left, hmm…
Rebuy – No

paddling…

By billn on April 09, 2010 #p.ox#site updates

Like a duck paddling away below the surface I’m trying to give the impression of everything being serene above the waist. The fact is the next Burgundy Report (already the 8th year!) is coming together in a much more orderly/timely fashion than usual – in fact you will only have to wait until the 15th because I’ve requested some stuff from external parties, and that’s their deadline – I suppose if they deliver it early you can have it early too 🙂

I’ve been going through a bit of a white clear-out phase, and didn’t want to subject you to the same notes every week, but during the last 6 weeks I’ve managed to go through the following, only some of which have been mentioned in the diary:

  • 1999 G. Roulot, Bourgogne (1) – oxidised
  • 1999 Morey-Blanc Meursault (1) – oxidised
  • 2000 A. Guyon, Corton-Charlemagne (1) – oxidised
  • 2000 Méo-Camuzet, Clos St.Philibert (2) – fine
  • 2001 Méo-Camuzet, Clos St.Philibert (2) – fine
  • 2001 Leflaive, Bourgogne (1) – fine
  • 2001 Chât.Puligny, Puligny Folatières (1) – ‘okay’
  • 2001 W. Fevre, Chablis Les Clos (3) – fine
  • 2002 W. Fevre, Chablis Les Clos (3) – fine
  • 2002 W. Fevre, Chablis Bougrots (1) – oxidised
  • 2002 Bouchard Père, Meursault Perrières (1) – oxidised
  • 2002 A. Guyon, Corton-Charlemagne (2) – part oxidised
  • 2005 Bouchard Père, Chablis Bougrots (2) – fine
  • 2005 F&D Clair, St.Aubin Dents du Chien (1) – fine
  • 2005 Marc Morey Chassagne Morgeot (1) – fine
  • 2006 Pierre Morey, Meursault Perrières (1) – fine
  • 2006 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc (3) – fine

So 8 oxidised from 27 – but that’s too charitable I think, as I included some young wines. If we look at 2002 and older it’s 8 from 19…

Moving swiftly on, here’s an article about Faiveley that was published last weekend….

are paywalls the way of the future?

By billn on April 07, 2010 #other sites

Information-is-Beautifu-00-BBC-o-gramI’ve been following the debate about ‘paywalls’; the knight on a white charger (for the newspaper-centric generation/workers) seems to be Rupert Murdoch who’s British titles the Times and Sunday Times will, in June, be put behind a paywall, joining his business title, the Wall Street Journal, which has operated for a while in such a manner.

Rupert is mad that search engines (for instance) can aggregate his content and splurge it out wherever they (or the end reader) may be – and all for free. How is a newspaper to survive? Well I’m not sure a newspaper can remain economically viable in the current environment, so let’s for now say ‘news organisation’. Even then it is tough – good journalists are expensive. Look at the BBC graphic to the right and you can see that they spend £122 million on websites, another £61 million on the BBC News 24 channel, and it’s any-one’s guess how much of the large £1393 million piece of the cake goes towards news-gathering and journalism in general – importantly (other than for a few Brits who pay a licence fee) it is completely free to the global web audience.

It’s no wonder then that while father Murdoch is targeting the online giants, his son is greasing the palms of politicians in order to get the BBC onto a significantly shorter leash. That’s rather ‘proactive’ targeting of their perceived competition.

pay-per-timesSo the Murdochs expect that we should pay a fee to ‘read their newspaper’ online. But is that still a newspaper-centric view?

Clearly if you buy a newspaper you read a significant proportion of the content that you’ve paid for – maybe it makes us more well-rounded individuals! But personally I buy a newspaper only 2 or 3 times per year, I gain my news from the BBC, Times, Guardian, NY Times, Economist, Google News etc., etc., i.e. websites, and importantly I tend to look at the entry-page, cherry-pick the stories of interest then move to the next site. Let’s call it news-browsing. So why would I pay for the whole of the Times website, when I might read only 3 or 4 stories per day? The correct answer is – I wouldn’t, it’s just one less site that I’ll visit in a day.

Of-course that remains the case only while I have other options; if the BBC is reigned in and other ‘news-providers’ follow the Murdoch gambit, then eventually I must acquiesce. The problem for the Murdochs today is that a significant energy barrier must be overcome to get somebody to pay online, and (from my perspective) it’s still the newspaper model where I pay for all content even if I don’t read it. They might prefer the cross-subsidising model, but I prefer, as a consumer, to pay for what I read – if I have to pay – and of-course where the Times’ competitors see strategic advantage from remaining free (assuming advertising or whatever business models keep their heads above water) I’m probably not paying 😉

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