The Market

offer of the day – bertrand ambroise…

By billn on August 29, 2011 #the market

DOMAINE BERTRAND AMBROISE 2010

CÔTE DE NUITS VILLAGES 2010 75cl 18.00 (Swiss francs)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2010 75cl 29.00
VOSNE-ROMANÉE 2010 75cl 38.00

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Les Vaucrains 2010 75cl 46.00

CORTON Le Rognet Grand Cru 2010 75cl 65.00
CORTON Le Rognet Grand Cru 2010 150cl 135.00
CLOS DE VOUGEOT Grand Cru 2010 75cl 79.00

To my Swiss franc eyes, these don’t look like bad prices but I haven’t yet become used to the ‘franc fort’ – I suppose they don’t look so good in GBP/Euro. That said, I’ve never bought the wines…

the grand crus of pommard…

By billn on August 24, 2011 #the market

No, it’s not April the 1st!

A large exercise that could be compared to pissing into the wind. That said, why not, Pommard is unfairly overlooked in the market so why not build up a bit of interest, although I don’t think Aubert Lefas (of Domaine Lejeune) comparing themselves to those grand cru paragons – the Clos de Vougeot or Corton – is the height of overselling 😉
[Archive]

misleading with scores…

By billn on July 22, 2011 #the market

They are very nice people (and nice wines) at Joseph Drouhin, and they are not the only people that do this, but that doesn’t mean that I don’t find it highly annoying.

Perhaps Neal Martin, or more likely Antonio Galloni have tasted and scored these wines – but I don’t for a second believe it was Robert Parker. Maybe next time if they want to ‘use’ his name and not Neal’s or Antonio’s, they might say the scores from Robert Parker’s ‘The Wine Advocate…’

what’s new this week…

By billn on July 19, 2011 #other sites#the market

A few new infos from the BIVB, plus Andrew Jefford falling under the spell of the Clos de Tart.

How much wine, and where?
The 2010 vintage has produced a total of 1,393,030 hectoliters in (greater) Burgundy (equivalent to 186 million bottles). This is 12.4% below the large 2009 crop and 6.5% below the 5-year average. Apart from 2003 (1.1 million hl), we must go back to 1997 to find a smaller volume (but at the time the vineyard area was ~12% less). The decrease compared to 2009, is particularly marked for red wines (-18.8%) and Crémant de Bourgogne (-13.2%), while the whites lost 8.7%. There was a sharp drop of about 20 to 25% on Villages and Grands Crus of the Côte d’Or (all colors combined) and the red of the Côte Chalonnaise too. The white wines of the Yonne and the Mâconnais were ‘only’ 4-8% down, regional appellations (white and red) 15% down. Interestingly, Hong Kong and China together, are now the 9th largest Burgundy export market by value (€16.5 million) with 1.3 million bottles – it sounds not too much, but it’s grown by nearly 200%!

Grand Crus – perhaps some updates ahead
No, no new grand crus, but maybe there could be some enforced changes in managing them. The owners of the monopoly grands crus such La Romanée, Romanée-Conti, La Tache, Clos de Tart and La Grande Rue, want to ban harvesting machines from grand crus. The proposal was made at the Institute of Appellations (INAO) by Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, president of the Union des Grands Crus, citing the difficulty in sorting grapes harvested this way and possible damage to vines shaken by the machines. In other business the proportion of grapes called “accessories” (Aligoté, Gamay etc.) might decrease from a tolerated 15% to 5%. If I’m honest I don’t really know of anyone who uses harvesting machines in the Côte d’Or – but feel free to send me your lists! I have the impression it might be seen in Chablis…

Huber-Verdereau is growing
Domaine Huber-Verdereau of Volnay, has just signed to acquire and operation and vines of the Clos du Colombier in Pommard. Le Clos du Colombier is a Pommard monopoly of 18 ouvrées (or 0.77 hectares). Their first bottles of Clos du Colombier will be available in early 2013. The Huber-Verdereau estate now covers nine hectares of vines in Volnay, Pommard, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. The domaine has been certified for organic and biodynamic agriculture since 2005. I’ve no experience of this domaine, but they sound ripe for a visit!

These images, ex BIVB

pricing, outrage and burgundy…

By billn on July 02, 2011 #other sites#the market

Interesting and well argued points from Mike; it’s also worth working your way through the comments too.

Mike has spent a few years in the ‘old world’ and it shows: It’s relatively rare to have somebody ‘US-based’ that can see the wider picture – the US market of middle-men and middle-middle-men is an island of profit potential that does service to neither the producer or buyer.

Of-course it is easy to make fun of the Bordeaux ‘circus’. I did it myself yesterday having seen the EP 2010 price of Le Petit Cheval; in due deference I opened my last bottle of the 1998, bought for about a fifth of the new offer price – it’s my last bottle, and clearly I won’t be re-stocking.

It was good by the way!

more volnay for champy…

By billn on June 10, 2011 #the market

Announced first (as far as I can tell) by Bruce Sanderson of the Wine Spectator; Maison Champy have added a 1.25 hectare slice of Volnay to their domaine.

Full story here.

offer of the day – Domaine de l’Arlot 2009…

By billn on April 19, 2011 #the market

It must be the season! Equivalent 2008 prices in brackets for comparison.

DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT 2009 – Nuits-St-Georges

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Le Petit Arlot 75cl 42.00 (Swiss Francs) (39.50)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Clos de l’Arlot 75cl 69.50 (68.00)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 75cl 69.50 (68.00)

VOSNE-ROMANEE Les Suchots 75cl 99.00 (84.00)

ROMANEE SAINT VIVANT 75cl 299.00 (248.00)

I guess, given the increase, that Les Suchots is also becoming a trophy wine, that or the market won’t stand similar increases for Nuits St.Georges – effectively the Nuits pricing is close to unchanged – but then I thought 08 too expensive. This remans a domaine whose wines I enjoy but only ocasionally as the stems can be a bit aggressive young; 3-5 years down the line and they are lovely though. I note that even when you add the (new) UK 20% tax, the 2009 Nuits are cheaper in the UK…

offer of the day – olivier bernstein…

By billn on April 15, 2011 #the market

OLIVIER BERNSTEIN 2009 – BURGUNDY

VILLAGE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 69.00 (Swiss francs)

PREMIERS CRUS
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES LAVROTTES 2009 75cl 129.00
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CHAMPEAUX 2009 75cl 129.00
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CAZETIERS 2009 75cl 119.00

GRANDS CRUS
CLOS DE LA ROCHE 2009 75cl 298.00
MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 345.00
BONNES-MARES 2009 75cl 345.00
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 2009 75cl 398.00
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 2009 75cl 168.00

Grands Crus are sold only together with Village or Premiers Crus – apparently. Aspirational pricing that loses the soul of the place in my opinion – it gives the impression of somebody more focused on cash than place I’m afraid to say (is it him or his importers?).

I think a fair question is ‘why would you pay twice the price for a Clos de la Roche from this producer (by the way, his cheapest GC red), than from Laurent Ponsot?’…

@betanmich versus @sucklingpig…

By billn on March 30, 2011 #the market

Got to have some sympathy with Michel Bettane here.

I guess His-RMP-ness of Monkton might have been a long-time exception, but he never rocked the boat or caused problems as he wasn’t out to scoop anyone; of-course that’s not @sucklingpig’s game. The current situation is heading for a disorganised free-for-all – come to think of it, a bit like Burgundy! 🙂

The difference is that Burgundy never had ‘a system’; people taste all year-round to their advantage or the wine’s advantage, or not – usually not! For instance I’m proud to have tasted 2010 Romanée-Conti, but sad too; pre-malo it’s just a fruity cordial – not Romanée-Conti – that takes away some of its mistique. But anyway, mere details compared to the ‘scoop factor’ – I should have made a video that costs everyone 4.99 Euros to watch(!)

It seems clear to me that this Bordeaux ‘system’ has always reinforced their ‘next-big-thing’ marketing machine and built up a well of comment at exactly the same time each year, and notably, from all associated to their ‘game’ (more from @Jancis here). Tinker with that system, and the focus is gone, consequently much might change…

Anyway, well-done Michel – you either have a system or you don’t – I’m 99 points on that!

Burgundy Report

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