The Market

various…

By billn on June 14, 2012 #the market

  1. So plenty of hot air is being generated by the fraud story broken by Le Bien Public yesterday, but frankly there seems only hot air; the few known ‘facts’ seem to be an idea of the quantity of fraudulent bottles (one assumes lower appellation wine being given a higher appellation label rather than cutting with vin d’Algerie as was once popular) and that four directors of Labouré-Roi have been arrested. I guess more ‘facts’ might prejudice any trial, but let’s see if anything useful leaches out…
  2. Château du Puligny-Montrachet has been bought by the de Montille family of Volnay. The only surprise here is that the official announcement of this has taken so long – there was plenty of ‘chatter’ already at the end of last year.

    « Ces deux exploitations avaient déjà développées des synergies », explique Etienne de Montille. Environ 5 hectares seront revendus. Au final ces deux domaines couvriront 35 hectares, dont 20 en Premiers et Grands Crus. Des vignes cultivées et certifiées en agriculture biologique.
    Source: The BIVB

  3. The pretty domaine Le Clos du Moulin aux Moines (Auxey-Duresses) has also bought up some new vine in Pernand, a 1.42 hectare plot of chardonnay in the village lieu-dits of Les Champs and Combottes.
  4. Last month the cooperative cellars of the Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais unveiled their Coteaux Bourguignons label, ‘a new appellation which links Burgundy and Beaujolais’. The Fédération des Caves Coopératives Bourgogne-Jura (FCCBJ) brings together the cooperative cellars of Côte d’Or, Saône-et-Loire, Yonne and the even fruit industry of the Jura – so maybe some strawberry wine then?. Although the label will initially only be seen on red wines, the AOC Coteaux Bourguignons label could also be used for white and rosé wines in the future.

Enough news for now 😉

home sweet home…

By billn on June 10, 2012 #degustation#other sites#the market

You know, the place where all the bushes are twice the size they were two weeks ago and where the grass definitely now needs clipping!

First: catching up on the news of the last two weeks – frankly it’s a meagre bag – assuming you (like me) have little interest in the endless stories about wine investment and the ‘new taste’ for Burgundy in Asia, though (with a wink) didn’t you know that the smart money is already moving into Italian wines… 😉

Second: After five hours hacking away in the garden, a wine to curl up with…

jaffelin-1992-pommard

1992 Jaffelin, Pommard
Medium, aged colour. The nose is different every time you sniff; forest floor, a little green, perfect red fruit then a little almond – I’m loving it. Good acidity, just a hint tart but with a sweetness behind that covers the cracks. Good intensity, high-toned fruit with a very faint creamy, perhaps coconut edge. A wine with rippling personality – I wish I had more!
Rebuy – Yes

Third: There were, of-course, other wines in the last two weeks – honourable mentions go to a 2008 Chablis Valmur from JC Bessin and a 2002 ‘own label’ villages NSG from BB&R – made for them by Nicolas Potel.

Fourth: What were they thinking? 😉

Domaine Maume (RIP), Pascal Marchand and a few 2010s…

By billn on May 08, 2012 #degustation#the market

I was lucky enough to catch up with Pascal Marchand yesterday in quite sunny Zürich, mainly presenting his 2010s – it was a good chance to learn more about his new rôle with the former Domaine Maume.

We knew already last year that the family Maume wanted to extract the equity in the domaine which had been run so well by Bertrand Maume – sad for him, for sure – it was a source of wines with a lot of personality, but who would come next? There was plenty of speculation, there always is, but it seemed to centre around various large négoce, so it was a bit of surprise when we learned a few weeks back that it was the backer of Pascal Marchand’s operation in Nuits St.Georges – Moray Tawse – who had scooped the four hectare domaine from ‘the usual suspects’. The eventual label may be branded ‘Domaine Tawse, by Pascal Marchand’ or something similar, let’s see. (The linked press release makes for some confusion versus my interpretation of the discussion – I’ll try to contact Bertrand…)

Bertrand had managed his vines with a ‘lutte raisonée‘ approach, but Pascal, still working with his old number two, Bernard Zito, has already started the conversion to Biodynamics “Actually, it wasn’t that easy to start doing anything” joked Pascal yesterday, “We’ve had so much rain since the early Spring that we can hardly get into the vines because of the mud!“. Meanwhile Pascal continues to oversee the ongoing conversion work of the part of the old Moillard cuverie/cellars where he will transfer everything in it’s current Nuits home”hopefully before the next harvest!

[Notes on Pascal’s wines, later…]

a double potel – collection bellenum plus clouding the waters…

By billn on May 03, 2012 #the market

It’s a late (only 4 days!) addition to the Spring 2012 Burgundy Report – but it doesn’t make sense to leave it in the drawer until (the Summer Report in) July/August to share with you: So here are the notes to a simply exquisite set of mature and maturing wines from Nicolas Potel. Read em and weep as they say 😉

If the launch of these old wines is a thing to cheer the heart, some of the developments surrounding Nicolas’ old label – in the UK at least – are of less cheer. One retailer is now selling 2006 Maison Nicolas Potel wine, which would be fine, except for the fact the Nicolas says he didn’t make the wine that they are selling. To be clear, Nicolas made all the wines up to and including the 2007 vintage before being asked to leave the company wearing his name. It was then, completely clear to consumers, that anything 2008 onwards should be more carefully scrutinised before buying. The arrival of these ‘older’ wines seems to me depressing news, and that’s because it will now cast a shadow over the whole NP back catalogue – the line in the sand for choosing your bottles/vintages will be washed away by any tide of ‘new’ releases.

Of-course it’s all perfectly legal; the current owners run a négoce company and can, just like Nicolas is doing with his collection Bellenum (linked above), buy and sell older wines. What is ‘unfortunate’ is that they cloud the waters in such a way that you would assume the wines were made by Potel – i.e without differentiation – which, according to him, they were not. The Collection Bellenum, whilst wearing a Maison Roche de Bellene label, also has the Bellenum stamp on that label and a back label that explains that these are old wines backed by Potel, but not made by Potel – I think there is a great difference in approach, don’t you?

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