Producer Update

Boris Champy – the new man for Domaine des Lambrays…

By billn on April 16, 2017 #producer update#the market

Boris Champy in action, right…

It is official this week – ultra-athlete Boris Champy will be the new face of Domaine des Lambrays – taking over the role of Thierry Bruin as he moves into his retirement.

Boris, who hails from a family of vignerons in Champagne, studied in Bordeaux and worked for the Moueix Family (Petrus, Trotanoy et-cetera) then had a 10 year stint at Moueix’s Dominus in California (1997-2007). In 2008 he joined Domaine Louis Latour in Beaune, and whilst we can forever-and-a-day discuss the wine-making at Latour, under Boris the viticulture was brought up to the highest possible level. Boris will be replaced at Louis Latour by Christophe Deola, production director since 2011, previously responsible for bottling, dry goods and Latour’s cooperage – Christophe is both a Viticultural Engineer and Oenologue.

Regarding Domaine des Lambrays, I asked Boris if he was happy or sad to have missed all pruning at Lambrays – “Well, it means I’ll have to wait for the 2018s to call a vintage 100% my own” he countered!

And for those of you that don’t know, Boris is a cyclist, marathon runner, ‘ultra-trailer’ and an Ironman triathlete – in his ‘spare time’…

adieu laurent ponsot – sort of…

By billn on March 10, 2017 #producer update#the market

EDIT:

dsc01727Laurent Ponsot, pictured right, when tasting 2015s in Morey St.Denis, last November.

Laurent Ponsot has made a name for himself, not just by being the greatest exponent of the ‘late-harvest’ Burgundy, but also by being a fighter of fraud, or rather counterfeit wine, too. But it seems that events may have taken him by surprise at Domaine Ponsot.

I got wind of it earlier this week and left some messages/questions for Laurent – he hasn’t yet responded, though if he does I’ll edit this note – but it seems that it is the end for Domaine Ponsot as we know it, if not for many of Laurent’s wines.

See Bruce Sanderson’s note here.

Without direct info from the man himself, I won’t disrespect Bruce by simply re-hashing his words – linked above – but in the last couple of years it was clear to me that Laurent was positioning himself to retire – and sooner rather than later, so 60 could have been the number – and his son Clément could ‘do what he wants with the domaine afterwards – the decisions will be his.’ Yet it seems that things can change very quickly in Burgundy. As far as I know there are no other winemakers in the family, i.e. the families of Laurent’s three sisters, so a sale seems the only option. And will the sisters have any legal right to challenge Laurent taking away with him the metayage contracts of Chambertin, Clos St.Denis, Griotte-Chambertin and Chambolle-Charmes? – Bruce indicates that Laurent will do so – despite that they have been integral to the domaine since 1982…

Regardless, it looks like a good pay-day for one, and for all, yet it will be such a shame. Domaine Ponsot – if it keeps that name, and how could it? (- with 20% ownership remaining with the family? ;-)) – will never have the same cachet without a charismatic Ponsot at the helm. Neither Laurent nor his father Jean-Marie could be the easiest of people, but they certainly both had charisma!

Still, I’m looking forward to tasting his 2016s – the lines between the domaine and négoce wines were always rather blurred here…

changes at domaine van berg

By billn on February 02, 2017 #producer update

DSC06634One of the most iconoclastic of producers – Domaine Van Berg – in Meursault is about to undergo a sea-change.They are in discussions with potential successors, but, for the moment, they have no new names to announce…

“For 15 years I have had the singular purpose of offering a quality product without concession. To maintain this high level of quality has demanded unceasing attention as well as, at times, very physical work. I have to face the fact that, at my age, continuing this exacting work is no longer possible for me, and it would be out of the question for me to offer a lower level wine than what I have, up to this point, produced. Thus, I decided at the beginning of 2016 to reduce my land properties and to let go of two small plots of land situated in the municipality of Puligny-Montrachet; the vineyards where the cuvées of “Les Bergers” and “La Combe” are grown.

On April 27, a late frost came at the most delicate moment of the vegetative cycle of the vine, just as the buds emerged, and this annihilated thousands of hectares of vineyards in Burgundy.

Most of the wine growers of our area have a very small harvest this year, and this is also the case for other areas of France and Europe. For our Domain, the loss has been 90% and the 2017 harvest is already compromised because of the damage done to the vine. Thus, I cannot hope for a harvest before 2018, which clearly means there will be no wine to offer before 2019 or 2020.

At that time I will be more than 70 years old.

Because of this fact I have decided to stop my work and look for someone younger who could continue to produce “Le vin le plus simplement” with the same philosophy as ours.

It pulls at the heartstrings that the moment will soon come to thank you for having encouraged us throughout these years, with your enthusiasm, with the trust you have shown us, and – more than anything – with all of the wonderful moments of sharing and emotion.

A beautiful adventure will shortly ends but life continues…and moving closer to our children and grandchildren, who do not live in France, seems to us the most cheerful proposition.

Sincerely,
Bernard and Judith “

prodigal…

By billn on January 26, 2017 #producer update#reports

A sleeping giant awakens!

I sent Ray Walker my article for his ‘right of response’ a few hours before I publicly linked it by publishing my September 2016 Report:
Today a response, which I offer for transparency:

——————————————————-

On 26 January 2017 at 09:23, Ray Walker wrote:

Bill
you will have my response shortly. For now, feel free to use the blog post that I made as a first instalment.
[my edit] link [end of my edit]
In short, your facts are not straight.

Ray WALKER
Owner/Winemaker
MAISON ILAN

On 26 January 2017 at 09:46, Ray Walker wrote:

And Bill
I hope you have a great lawyer.

——————————————————-

Of-course, Ray’s response is only in the spirit of “doing things in the right way

the new, older, generation…

By billn on January 25, 2017 #producer update

http://www.winemag.com/2017/01/24/burgundys-new-generation-rising-to-the-challenge/

Of-course none of these will be new to regular readers, but this is a nice piece, with some lovely portraits by Jon Wyand. Though for a ‘new generation’ this group is becoming ‘rather mature!’ – I profiled most in these pages more than a dozen years ago 🙂

And as a digestif, why not a little Chablis from Bruce?

all change at chanson père et fils…

By billn on January 16, 2017 #producer update#the market

And my quick translation for you:

Gilles de Courcel has been at the helm of Domaine Chanson Père & Fils in Beaune, for 14 years. He’s now moving aside for Vincent Avenel, who has been working as Chanson’s commercial manager since last May. Vincent was hired by Gilles together with the head of Bollinger, the owners of Chanson since 1999, Etienne Bizot. I’m assuming there’s no change for Jean Pierre Confuron…

bonneau du martray (largely) sold

By billn on January 04, 2017 #producer update

dsc02017Jancis (above) was the first to post on this, in English. One hour ahead of her was the following in French.

My rough commentary is:

American Stanley Kroenke has acquired the majority of the capital of Domaine Bonneau Martray
Kroenke, approaching 70 years old, and owner Arsenal football club in the UK, plus US basketball, soccer and football teams, is also the owner of, amongst others in the US, the Screaming Eagle winery.

The Bault de la Morinière family (Jean-Charles – pictured right – 15 Dec 2016) for a long time have told the tale of ‘only 3 owners in 1,250 years‘ but the family have now sold the majority (whatever that means) of their shares in the domaine to Stanley Kroenke for an undisclosed sum – and he’s not a Frenchman! – but maybe this allows the family to claim maintenance of ownership, even if a minority ownership.

At nearly 70 years of age, Kroenke is roughly the same age as Jean-Charles; whilst the latter has been looking for a successor, the former continues to forge deals. I had heard that the generations following Jean-Charles were not interested to take up the reigns of the domaine – maybe there was no other possibility – or indeed this was the least worst solution, assuming that Pinault and Arnault were potentially unwelcome suitors…

I hope that it works well for all the parties involved, Jean-Charles has been a fantastic steward of the domaine, I have always enjoyed my many discussions with him, though it’s also a domaine that has been blighted with oxidation issues in the last years. According to Les Echos, Armand de Maigret, ‘the French general manager for Mr Kroenke’s vineyards, will supervise the property while maintaining its unique identity.

Burgundy Report

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